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SONOFTA [email protected]#%@#$ fuel problems i hope...

Old 09-11-2007, 03:13 PM
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SONOFTA [email protected]#%@#$ fuel problems i hope...

well, my car has been driving flawlessly for the past week or two and all of today until just about 4pm. i turned off the car to help a few buddies put guages in their WRX (noobs lol) and when i went to leave my car barely started.... it barely moved for that matter, let it idle and the ECU light came on (seems to com on once the car is warmed up and the air regulator closes) and tehn it started driving until right around 5 psi, then it sputters and ***** like the timing is way off or the turbo isnt spooling or there isnt enough fuel. the turbo is obvioously working since its hitting at least 5psi (then starts jumping psi's cause teh car sputters and pops) and checked the timing right on at 20 degrees. only thing i can think of is its running to lean, aka cloged line bad injectors or fuel pump. im thinking fuel pump since its a very very noisy fuel pump and always has been. idk, just curious on what you guys think it could be/should check also, i will check the psi on teh fuel line but i cant now cause im going for a job interview... let me know anything fella's
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Old 09-11-2007, 03:57 PM
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sounds like your fuel pump

took a dump
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Old 09-11-2007, 10:06 PM
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So what's "teh fule preshure" at?
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Old 09-11-2007, 10:53 PM
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didnt check it, car started running good again. lol. i will tommorow after school though i need a few things to hooke up the guage right. DOH! also i launched teh car for the first time today spun all 1st but still maintained alright traction then big spin/chirped second then saw a cloud of white smoke behind me, not from the tires.... i started flipping a bitch, turned off, popped the hood lots o smoke. i blew a rad line off the TB for the tb heater. coolant EVERYWHERE. thank god thats all it was, rad was nearly half empty, luckily i was only 2 blocks away from home so i drove it home and hit around 200 degrees on the temp guage, turned her off went and got fluid filled her up. so idk what the deal is with why it ran like garbage for that one trip today.... ut w/e
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:14 AM
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if your car is not running right why would u put stress on it? u need to go over your car and make sure u get these problems fixed or u gonna be a bind one day with it matters.
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Old 09-12-2007, 10:00 AM
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Yeah I have to agree with 260Z on this. When my car would be running odd I wouldn't randomly try and run it super hard. I'd maybe push it a little in trying to figure out where problems were happening, but it was for testing purposes.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:11 AM
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you guys read my last post right? it started running perfect when i started it up to take it for a light cruise to show my friend what it was doing, and instead it just took off like crazy and drove perfectly. i wouldnt have beaten on the car if it was still running shitty. so idk maybe the ecu just got a wierd reading on that start up or perhaps the fuel pump is fazing in and out now. ill still check it but its running good again. however, what speed are you usually at when you guys shift outta second? i feel like i need to re-do my fuel lines since the car starts to loose all its poewr around 60mph in second, and that seems a little to low. should be more around 70 or 80 in the cars i have experience with. and this is on the 4spd so it should be geard a little taller than the 5spds.
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Old 09-12-2007, 12:45 PM
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60 is a bit higher for 2nd even in the 4 speed. What RPM are you running at then? Also what rear end are you using?
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:05 PM
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stupid R180 still, no tach otherwise i wouldnt have said anything, this car keeps blowing tachs on me. and before any one asks yes i used teh resistor pack. its mind boggling.

EDIT: i think i might as well upgrade teh fuel pump, any suggestions, i want a healthy pump but i dont know what the standard flow rate is on the stock pumps, i want something thats going to be strong and good incase i ever decide to go crazy on mods, plus stock replacement pumps are priced kinda rediculously, unless i get autozone special but i dont like their electronic parts. and also, any one got a link to the Z31 ECU swap incase i go that route instead of megasquirt... INCASE!

Last edited by snwbrderphat540; 09-12-2007 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:32 PM
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dont get a autozone fuel pump >_< go ahead and dish out for a good aftermarket fuel pump. i could start naming a bunch of them but i dont know what price range u are looking at. how are u wiring up your tachs? to have that many blow kinda keeps me wondering.
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
any one got a link to the Z31 ECU swap incase i go that route instead of megasquirt... INCASE!
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91250

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=Z31T

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=Z31T

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=Z31T
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Old 09-12-2007, 04:00 PM
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I'm not sure what the max flow rate of the turbo pumps are, but I think if you just get yourself a replacement and even if it flows more it shouldn't make much difference, the injectors can only spray so much.
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:22 PM
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right ^^^ but like i said im upgrading, when i do MS or teh Z31 upgrade which ever... prolly megasquirt im going to run 450CC dsm injectors on my pallnet rail and all metal HG and ARP head studs so i can up the boost and utalize the fuel pump upgrad, im looking to spend no more than 200 or 230 dollars. i was looking around and found some good options (dont want aeromotive they are spensive as ***** and from what i hear not to trust worthy) thinking walbro but inorder to get an upgraded fuel pump i need to know teh psi the stock makes and GPH or LPH it flows.
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Old 09-12-2007, 08:04 PM
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u want a fuel pump that supplies alot more then u ever need. why they fuel regulators >_<. i think a stock fuel pressure is 35ish.
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Old 09-12-2007, 09:37 PM
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[QUOTE=snwbrderphat540]stupid R180 still, no tach otherwise i wouldnt have said anything, this car keeps blowing tachs on me. and before any one asks yes i used teh resistor pack. its mind boggling.


Don't you mean Mind bottling?
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:09 PM
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haha. i wanted to put mind bottling but i didnt think to many people would get it. i love anchorman blades of glory, etc... them will ferrel movies are funny
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:30 PM
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''Don't act like your not impressed''
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Old 09-22-2007, 12:20 AM
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lol^^^

thanks for pulling up this thread though, my car is a bitch. lol. i got some wierd electrical issue with teh ignition harness or CAS. ECU is turning on and i think i can smell gas but there is for sure no spark, i go around and squeeze my connection i soldiered to splice in the turbo ecu and it comes back to life for a day or two. lol. its soo weak.... i knew i soldered like crap but COME ON!!!!
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Old 09-22-2007, 09:22 AM
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are u sure u have good grounds and a constant 12.6 volts. ur having way to many problems
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Old 09-22-2007, 10:55 AM
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well, squeezing electrical connections is the only way it starts back up so i think that is it, or could be the constant 12 volt thing, the batter i have in it now might be undersized and has been completly discharged and re-charged at least 5 times..... i know ive got pretty good grounds though since i made my own. lol....
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Old 09-27-2007, 08:33 PM
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So what is the initial charge on the battery with the system off???

You should see an initial voltage of approx 12.4. I like to see around 12.6v.
Remove the surface charge. Crank the engine over a couple of times without starting. Just disconnect your ignition coil, and don't go and flood it. Test voltage again. Does it remain at 12.4v or above?

If it's not, take it in and make sure they do a proper load test. That means putting a draw on the battery at 50% of CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) for 15 seconds. Battery must test at 9.5v or above after test.
A good battery test is not instant. This does not test enough of the battery to be effective. It will test the amps, and voltage at that time. But, without a load, how can it see reserve capacity and CCA (The amount of amperes a battery can deliver at 0 degrees for 30 seconds)?

The best thing you can do is learn how to properly read a schematic, learn your Ohm's law, and how to use a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) good.

Electrical problems become fun puzzles after a while. But, I think I am half crazy anyway.
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Old 09-27-2007, 09:38 PM
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hasnt died on me since.... it seemed to totally stop dying when i re-did the connection on the start signal wire... which is wierd... i re-did al the connections and it seemed to almost fix it, but then i noticed something and re-did the start signal connection and seems to have been going good since. the alternator test ok, i still wonder about the battery a little. but havent had an issue yet. and i fixed my tailights so i can drive at night again. lol. was just a loose conection. and i re-adjusted my lifters and now no moer tick!!!! its soo quiet... the engine that is... now all you year is the humm (not tick) of the injectors and lifters and the rumble of the exhaust.... woot woot!!!
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Old 09-27-2007, 10:21 PM
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Nice.
Always nice to hear a good running engine. Especially when you get used to the way it sounds when it's bad. Like it changes into a whole new engine.
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