I have a 1980 ZX Automatic with extractors and it is so rich that the engine will not run. I have had the ECU and the AFM tested and they were found to be ok. I have disconnected the cold start by blocking the fuel hose. The thermotimer and temp sensors have been replaced. All terminals have been cleaned and new clips fitted. The engine will start and run perfectly for a few starts then next start will just flood engine with fuel. I have to remove the sparkplugs and dry them out leaving them out for an hour or two then refit and try to start sometimes all ok or its the flooding again. I am thinking maybe just give up with this one and just fit carburetors.

 

Have you checked the CHTS? and the electrical plugs for that sensor. How did you test the ECU. Datsun themselves could not test that ECU. Any company that says they can test it is lying to you and the world. The ECU cannot be reprogrammed as it is a one burn chip set. The ECU can be repaired if you have a bad component on the IC board but that is it. The ONLY way to test your ECU is to put it in another know running ZX car.
I have two 1983 ECU's that super flood my car with no way to fix either as it is a programming issue as far as I can tell.
I hope you didn't pay anyone to test your ECU.
The two things that will cause a super rich condition is if the ECU is getting a bad signal from the AFM or the CHTS.
Do you have the FSM?
How was everything tested before you put new parts in or are you just guessing and throwing parts at the car?

 

Wow, thank you for your response. I have a genuine factory manual for the S130 and have been following it and at the same time totally confusing myself. I had the AFM and the ECU tested by a reputable company that assured (naive) me that they had to be tested together. (cost $395au). At the same time, it was suggested that I replace the Temp Sensor and the Thermotimer Sensor. Lots of other bits tested following the workshop manual using an ohmmeter and getting varying results. The more I think about it the more I suspect the ECU, that is the brains of the system. My car is an early 1980 ZX auto with air conditioning. How would I go about getting another ECU? I have tried but no luck so far.

 

The first thing I would do is try to find a local Z car club. there may be someone in the club willing to swap your ECU into their car to see how it runs. The compatibility for your ECU will be any car from 1979 to 1981. It will not matter if your car or the donor car is an Auto or manual transmission or if it is a federal or California emission car/ECU. Even if your car does not have an O2 sensor but the donor ECU has the O2 sensor circuitry the ECU will work................as long as there is nothing else wrong with your car. That is where the FSM comes into play. You need to start at the beginning of the diagnostic procedure and follow it to the end. Doing all the test first from the ECU 35 pin connector and then moving to the component if you have reading that are not to factory spec. This method tests the wire harness and the individual components. If all of the tests are within factory spec then the ECU is bad by default.
I have offered and completed ECU testing for a couple of people here in the States but with you being on the other side of the world that will be a little difficult. I own three 280zx cars that I can use for testing. One 1981 manual California car and two 1983 manual Federal cars.
The 79-81 ECU's are pretty EZ to find on ebay, the only problem is is that they all say the ECU came from a running car......................Bull Sh-t i say! But most of them do guarantee them for 30 days. They won't make it to AU and back in time for a return.
Look for an ECU locally first. Here is a list of ECU numbers. your best bet is to find the exact match to the one your car had from the factory but in a pinch any 79-81 will work.
If you are interested we could work out a deal where I could get you an ECU and test it. I video all my testing and then post it on FB for proof that they work or dont work. I can then send it to you if I find a good one.
Now if I were you i would be thinking SCAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and you are correct to think that. I am a member of 3 Zcar forums, I am on FB and belong to a couple of Zcar groups. I also make and sell Zcar distributor parts. Google " matchbox distributor breaker plate repair kit " or " Datsun Matchbox distributor stator magnet " . I am Kickstand80 on the forums and my contact info is listed in the post and ads for the parts.
You need to do your testing first. There are no ECU's out there that will fix a car that has bad wiring or bad sensors.
Have a great day
Craig

 

According to the list you should have an A11-612-424 or an A11-618-427. Check which one you have and post it here.

 

Thank you for your help and I have no doubt that you are genuine, your knowledge is excellent. I have an ECU A11-600000 with chassis number HGS130- 130... Apparently, my ECU is from an earlier model S30. (Thank you for your chart). I am not sure if that makes a big difference, but I now have a reference point. I am sure this car has not run for years and been passed on to multiple owners trying to fix the problem and each one leaving a multitude of other problems. Parts for this car all have to come from the US and that takes weeks, and the exchange rate makes everything expensive. I have a Cardone ECU 72-3112, but it is a later model with the o2 light. I have not tried it. My question is. Do I just swap out the whole system for a 260 Z manifold and carburetors to get the car on the road.

 

My search says ECU 72-3112 will fit a 1980 280zx. I have never researched installing a pre 79 ECU into a post 79 ECU. Interesting. Have you tried installing it into the car?
If you think fixing your EFi is expensive, search for an intake and carbs for your car. Like I said maybe finding a local Z club or Datsun truck club. I have sent probably 10 of my parts to AU and NZ so I know there is a following for the Datsun cars and trucks.
I have never asked anyone on how shipping works into AU. When I put down a value on the item(s) i am sending do you have to pay a import fee on that value? If i find an ECU for your car, test it and send it to you are you going to get charged an extra fee on top of what you pay for the part and shipping?
I saw a compatible ECU on USA Ebay for around 50.00 us. It would probably cost 20-25.00 US to ship. How does that translate into the AU $$$$$$?

 

I will fit the Cardone unit and see if the car starts. Thank you again.

 

Have you tried that Cardone ECU yet?

 

Yes, but no start with my two ECU's and one borrowed one. I have spark and 30 psi fuel pressure, new fuel and filter. Simply put, the injectors either do not operate or do not switch off, then to complicate it, sometimes they work perfectly, and the engine runs sweetly. Maybe not just an ECU problem. I will keep you posted on what we find. Have you ever heard of this type of fault. Cheers.

 

The way your injectors work is the ECU counts how many times the ignition coil fires. Every third time the coil fires the ECU grounds all of the injectors at the same time.This is galled gang fire. So check your ignition coil. The blue wire on your ignition coil splits into 2 wires inside the wire harness. One goes to the ICM (ignition control module) and the other goes to the ECU. At the ECU you will find a single wire that is outside of the wire harness. It will have a blue wire on one side of the connector and a yellow wire on the other side of the connector. That is the signal wire from the coil to the ECU. Check to make sure it is a good connection by following the test instructions in the FSM (Factory Service Manual).

 

OK, I will follow that and let you know what I find. Thank you again.