L26 crank and pistons into an L24 motor.
#2
Also, all that work for around 11hp?
Engine: 2,393 cc (146.0 cu in) L24 I-6, cast-iron block, alloy head, two valves per cylinder, seven-bearing crankshaft, single overhead cam, 9.0:1 compression; Maximum recommended engine speed 7000 rpm.
Bore: 83.0 mm (3.27 in)
Stroke: 73.7 mm (2.90 in)
Power: 151 hp (113 kW) at 5600 rpm (SAE gross)
Torque: 146 lbf·ft (198 N·m) at 4400 rpm (SAE gross)
Engine: 2.6 L (160 cu in) L26 I6, cast-iron block, alloy head, two valve per cylinder, seven-bearing crankshaft, single overhead camshaft
Displacement: 156.6 cu in (2,565 cc)
Bore: 83.0 mm (3.27 in)
Stroke: 79.0 mm (3.11 in)
Compression Ratio: 8.3:1 (93 oct)
Power: 162 hp (121 kW) at 5,600 rpm
Torque: 157 ft·lbf (213 N·m) at 4,400 rpm
#3
The L26 motor has pits on the cylinder walls, and needs to be bored to be repaired. My L24 motor is fine, but needs new rings. So since I have them both apart, and don't want to spend money on boring, I figured, why not ask.
#4
The L26 has the same bore as the L24 with the stroke the same as the L28.
As long as you keep the rods and pistons together in the same order. It would be a good idea to use plastigages for assembly even if you have the crank polished or reground. New rings and bearings of course. You should get around +20 torque. The ratings for that 260 are with the crappy E88 head and junk flat top carbs. Back in the day a 240 would out run a 260 any time.
As long as you keep the rods and pistons together in the same order. It would be a good idea to use plastigages for assembly even if you have the crank polished or reground. New rings and bearings of course. You should get around +20 torque. The ratings for that 260 are with the crappy E88 head and junk flat top carbs. Back in the day a 240 would out run a 260 any time.
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