no. I disconnected it after the test. I believe it fried the diodes when the terminals were crossed. I am going to get it tested at autozone tomorrow and get a replacement if it fails. Hopefully they won't ask questions and just give me a replacement.

 

shouldnt it be a life time warranty? its autozone after all. just get an exchange. otherwise just be like, yeah wasnt charging the car WTF. then bring her on down and check out mah parts collection

 

sounds like a plan!

 

Auto zone ordered me a new one after it Failed, Passed, Failed, then Failed again.

I have no Idea how it passed once but they still ordered me a replacement(picking it up tomorrow) so I am happy.

 

Those AutoZone table top alternator checkers suck. I've taken 3 toasted alternators to them before and they all check out good... but on the car it puts out 11V.

The full stand they wheel out to the parking lot works better... but your car has to make it there.

 

Alright I got the new Alternator and got it tested at Advance auto parts(passed)

I jumped my car and drove for a bit then it died. How do I test if the wires are fried?

 

Whew... I'm glad that new alternator passed! Were you expecting it to fail?

Did you check the voltage while the car was running?

How to check for burnt wires... I'm gunna say...

#1... Look at them. If they look fried, they probably are.

#2... Check voltage / OHMs from one end to the other.

 

Actually, it just barely passed. You never know with the duralast stuff. I figured if I was there I might as well know for certain if it was good.


Ya, it was 12.0v when the I got it started. then I let it idle for a while then it dropped to 11.9v I drove it for a while and then it died on me while I was driving(no lights/radio)

None of the wire look burnt. so I will check the voltages between the battery and the alternator terminal tomorrow.

 

got that alternator hooked up right! lol. if you got it wrong the first time might the second....

 

well. if it wasn't the first way I tried, and there are only two ways to hook it up... I think I got it this time

O, and no sparks or blown links either

 

I just tested the voltages on the wires and I got 11.9 at the battery and 11.9 at the alternator wires.

I tested the ohms and got 4.1 between the battery and fusible link and 4.2 between the battery and the alternator wires.

I am no electrician but it would seem that the wires are alright, is that correct?

 

it would if it has continuity, but like i said, you might very well have that biatch hooked up wrong post a pic like, now, it will take but 10 mins to take upload and post.... GO! i want to see the back of the alt and see how its hooked up with my own eyes.

 

Yes, SIR!

I will get a pic asap.


What about the voltage regulator? I know a bad one will cause high volts but what about causing it not to charge?

 

hmmmm... this is an external one. idk if it can BLOCK voltage down MORE than it does if it fails unless it lost its conection but like i said if theres continuity between it all that shouldn't be the problem....

 

Here are the pics


from the bottom; then neg connection


tested voltages at alternator and when I got 12 at the battery I got 11.9 between the alt and case. when I got 11.2(battery) I got 11.1 between the alternator and case.

 

that negative is wrong i believe it goes to that screw to the left and slightly abouve the positive otherwise looks correct... lemme check on my dads S30 real quick to be sure



yup put the negative on the post that is on the back where i described the one thats a phillips head screw.... SEE i told you you hadd it wrong this whole time. tard. lol

 

post haste! please (it's getting dark here)

 

i know its getting dark WE LIVE 25 MILES APART!!!! lol but re-read my post you have it wrong twinkle nuts

 

Thanks, I am a tard. (scurries to fix car)

keep you posted!(durrrr, I can't do anything by my self if you haven't figured that out)

 

no luck, I put the neg on the screw(ya want a pic of that?? ) and it went from 12v to 10.4 while idling

 

You have to keep jumping your car right? I've heard a person tell me that it's bad to run the car with a dead or nearly drained battery. As now the alternator is trying to pump out way more voltage than needed to charge the battery and it can ruin the alternator. My battery went dead on my 300ZX. I kept jumping the car. I noticed when I started turning the lights on, and then the A/C everything would go dim. Once I replaced the battery I noticed with everything turned on inlcuidng A/C it was fine. This could be a problem if the battery is pretty much shot. Check the voltage of the battery after the car has been off for a while. As far as the negative goes it shouldn't matter unless this is drastically different from the ZX alts. On my ZXT when replacing the alternator I broke off the tiny screw for the negative post, it had another spot where I could just ground the negative and had no issues. I'd say crappy alternators, and dead battery are not a good mix. I'm planning to do the GM 1-wire swap soon.

 

ya, I have jumped it quite a bit(10 times maybe). Sounds like it could be the problem.

What should I look for (in terms of voltages) when the car has been off for a while?

 

got another battery lying around? try it out also that positive wire looks toasty you should see if that connector is still connected good and where did u test the voltage?

 

at the battery and between the + of the alternator and case. Both same voltages.

The + connector is good. It is actually new(oil from pliers may make it look fried) and I tested it.

battery? Maybe, we are going to trade in our taurus soon.

 

take the battery out of taurus if you know its good and stick it in your car see if it stays running or if the battery just drains again.... when batterys get toasted they can actually lots of voltage and kill the car after just a couple minutes after a jump my old toyota did this