5 digit Odometer
#1
5 digit Odometer
Is there anyway to verify how many times an older Z's Odometer has turned over ?
There is a complete rust bucket 76 with just"67k".. funny thing is the way he advertises it, has only minor rust on the roof, hehe you can put your finger through in multiple places, pisses me off he is trying to deceive people and wasting they're time, once I got a glimpse of it I told him I was not interested and it was beyond saving. The guy is in a serious case of crazy. I might buy it and part it out, he wants 600, if I can get it for 350 maybe.
There is a complete rust bucket 76 with just"67k".. funny thing is the way he advertises it, has only minor rust on the roof, hehe you can put your finger through in multiple places, pisses me off he is trying to deceive people and wasting they're time, once I got a glimpse of it I told him I was not interested and it was beyond saving. The guy is in a serious case of crazy. I might buy it and part it out, he wants 600, if I can get it for 350 maybe.
#2
Is '76 too old for CARFAX? If not, get the VIN and run it. Must be records of it somewhere.
Otherwise, do a Sherlock Holmes on it and locate a component where the difference between 67K wear, 167K wear and 267K wear would definitely be clear. That's all I can think of... (Gotta admit a 5-digit ODO is not overly optimistic...! ) Does the seller have shifty eyes or never take his shades off, even at night?
Otherwise, do a Sherlock Holmes on it and locate a component where the difference between 67K wear, 167K wear and 267K wear would definitely be clear. That's all I can think of... (Gotta admit a 5-digit ODO is not overly optimistic...! ) Does the seller have shifty eyes or never take his shades off, even at night?
Last edited by zxguy1986; 03-26-2014 at 05:46 PM.
#5
To the PredatorZ: No, there is not.
To zxguy986: Carfax does not have info on cars that pre-date the 17 digit VIN.
As far as pedals go, I've replaced them before. It's not that difficult.
About the only way to tell is with a complete set of service records without the "ran when parked" BS. Otherwise, it has rolled at least once or twice. Heck, I met the 3rd owner of my 260Z (I am the 5th or 6th.). He sold the car at somewhere around 150K miles, and he suspected the car rolled the odometer twice more. It doesn't matter to me. It runs.
As far as the car in the original post is concerned, with a 40 year old car, it is caveat emptor. If someone just waltzes into the sale of a car that old without performing due diligence (including research on the marque & model), then that is the sucker for whom PT Barnum was referring.
To zxguy986: Carfax does not have info on cars that pre-date the 17 digit VIN.
As far as pedals go, I've replaced them before. It's not that difficult.
About the only way to tell is with a complete set of service records without the "ran when parked" BS. Otherwise, it has rolled at least once or twice. Heck, I met the 3rd owner of my 260Z (I am the 5th or 6th.). He sold the car at somewhere around 150K miles, and he suspected the car rolled the odometer twice more. It doesn't matter to me. It runs.
As far as the car in the original post is concerned, with a 40 year old car, it is caveat emptor. If someone just waltzes into the sale of a car that old without performing due diligence (including research on the marque & model), then that is the sucker for whom PT Barnum was referring.
#6
Good points all
Hey Lazlo, very Sherlock Holmes, something to keep in mind, a good tool for someone who deals in older cars. And I have to agree, miles are only numbers like age, if it runs and drives the mileage is inconsequential. I personally plan on replacing everything that needs it, seals, gaskets,bearings, all the rubber stuff, and a lot of the plastic interior needs major work. Ya, Steve buyer beware, there is always a rube out there. Only once in the last few years I didn't talk the guy down and pay less, met his pregnant wife and was way to guilty to barter, it's a sneaky tactic you married guys can use if circumstances align properly. I even asked him if he was willing to go down and he said ya, so I bailed, but good about it. Most everyone's asking price is they're hi estimate of the cars worth, so all you have to do is point out the flaws, us old Z guys know where all the rust is, so its pretty easy to make the car seem in terrible condition with way to much money needed to fix it !!
#7
Steve,
You are right of course about the ease of changing out the pads, but as a general statement: In a car that has been (not)maintained to the point where there are rust holes through it, a new set of pedal pads would be odd, and they would probably stick out like a turd in a punchbowl.
I contend that with a little thought and attention to details, you can figure out the rough mileage and level of care a car has received.
And yes, if it runs great and has been loved, mileage doesn't matter... Unless you are looking for a JY motor to dump in a car when you have no intention of doing anything else to it. For example, my nephew toasted the motor in his $500 Ford escort, and was looking for a $150 JY motor to dump in it instead of paying for headwork. 150k is way better than 250k in this case.
If you were going to buy the Z above, depending on what you were going to do with it, the mileage may well be indicative of whether or not you need to break down the lower end.
You are right of course about the ease of changing out the pads, but as a general statement: In a car that has been (not)maintained to the point where there are rust holes through it, a new set of pedal pads would be odd, and they would probably stick out like a turd in a punchbowl.
I contend that with a little thought and attention to details, you can figure out the rough mileage and level of care a car has received.
And yes, if it runs great and has been loved, mileage doesn't matter... Unless you are looking for a JY motor to dump in a car when you have no intention of doing anything else to it. For example, my nephew toasted the motor in his $500 Ford escort, and was looking for a $150 JY motor to dump in it instead of paying for headwork. 150k is way better than 250k in this case.
If you were going to buy the Z above, depending on what you were going to do with it, the mileage may well be indicative of whether or not you need to break down the lower end.
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