see, sounds like your not getting the start signal then. cause once mine gets the start signal the LED goes off and then will come back on after a little bit.

 

okay I checked and I am getting start signal. All my wiring is good. I went and checked every wire in my wiring harness. Then I redid all my wiring again. Then I had a friend crank it while I listened to the injectors with a stethoscope and they are not firing. I think really that my CAS went bad.

 

i spose its possible. i thought it was harder finding a dizzy than an ECU

 

So the injectors are or aren't getting power???

The 280ZXT & all VG30E CAS's should be the same. It would be easier to get a Z31 or Maxima CAS and swap it... tho the two / three screws holding the CAS into the dizzy are sometimes a biotch to get out.

 

Yeah, I actually when doing my Z31 swap found some spare parts hidden away in the back of my Z. The previous owner had replaced the CAS thinking that was the problem with it. I looked up the part number and found out it was a Z31 CAS. Exactly the same connection and everything, just the chopper wheel was different. Have you pulled up the rail at all and just watched to see if anything sprays from the injectors while cranking?

 

Okay, so I finally found an oscilloscope and determined my CAS was in fact working. In doing so and in the trouble shooting process I noticed the screws holding it in had been stripped out. If ever I have to change it, It will require some drilling and cursing. So on to more trouble shooting. I bust out my wiring diagram and begin to chase everything down. And I mean everything. I have 4 pages of notebook with notes, Including which wires I do and do not use since the swap. I then busted open the original ECU that I had and started tracing circuit paths. (Everybody thank Dave, the electric engineer and good friend.)
In doing so I determined where power traveled once in the ECU. I have about 4 pages of notes on this as well. After deciding that there was nothing wrong with the ECU I set my attention to the wiring harness. Since I now know where every wire went, where it was spliced into other wires, and which ones I used, I was able to go through the harness and test everything. To do this I busted out a multi meter, a 12v power supply, and my friend Shamus. The first thing I did was split the harness into groups. I started with the FI Relay side and labeled it group one. This included the CHTS and Knock sensor as well. Group two was The FI harness itself and included the CAS wires as well. Group 3 was the Throttle position sensor and the AFM including the grounds and EGR. Group 4 was left for the spliced areas, where different wires meet up. I set about testing every wire in the harness and after much work and a lot of patience I found a wire with resistance. I was only flowing about 9v through it. It was the main power wire to the injectors, corroded after it doubles back to the ECU. So I replaced it. And a few others that where kinda weak and dry. Then I set about removing all the wires I don`t use since the swap. This was not fun. But I had started and was going to finish. I haven`t had a chance to put the harness back in and try to start it up, as it has been hailing and lightning and a good chuck of day light hours we where without power. Tomorrow I will be putting this back in and I will let you know if it works. Also I got pictures if photobucket will hurry and upload em. I`ll ad em as soon as I can.

 

Well, I got the harness installed again and checked my voltages and all that. All was looking good so I attempted to start it. It started making this god awful sound. So I start trying to find this sound and it is coming from my fi relay. So i dive further in. I find I have forgotten a ground. I hook it up and try agian. no more awful sound from fi relay but now my voltage to my igniter is no longer 5v it is .07 so I unplug that ground again and back to 5v. Interesting. So I pull the harness back out and trace down that ground. And everywhere that ground connects. It leads to the fi relay and 4 pins on the ecu. So long story short, I think my FI relay went bad. I am gonna go get a new one.

 

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/Matthew_H_Boise/?action=view&current=eccs_wiring_diagram2copy.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/Matthew_H_Boise/eccs_wiring_diagram2copy.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


Why do I get 12v on this wire even after removing it from the ecu and fi relay? I thinks perhaps I have a short but cannot find it anywhere. I am gonna build my own ground wires for these. And see what happens.

 

yeah it really sounds like its just a wiring issue and nothing more.

 

OK so I changed those ground wire, there are four into the ecu there. I built my own and then grounded the fi relay direct to battery. I am still having the same issue, I am at a complete loss. Tomorrow it goes into Tommy Motorsports. If he can`t fix it I am done with it. I`m gonna get a chevy those is easy to fix.

 

if you go with an iron 350 you best convert it to FI and boost it lol. other wise go NA with an LSx motor.

 

What exactly is the car doing when you try to crank it? Is it turning or trying to turn over, or is it doing nothing? When you turn the key to the on position, do you at least hear the fuel pump come on? Also check your battery voltage, fuses, fuel pump relay, etc. Have you at any point replaced the coil or the ignition module? Or are these the originals?

 

So after going into the shop and talking about what is happening, NoOne local will touch my car. I am on my own. I figure there are only about 5 things that could be wrong. I am currently ordering all of those. So what I need from you guys is, another ecu, known good. An AFM. everything else is being replaced. I ordered a new knock sensor 436.00 and a new Throttle Position Sensor 36.00 AA new CHTS 149.00. I could also use a new dizzy with CAS if anyone has one that is known good. Also ordered a new wiring harness. 150 off ebay NOS

 

I guarantee it's not the knock sensor... cross that off your list (you could get one from a junk yard for $20 anyway ).

And where are you getting these parts? Who quoted you $149 for a CHTS??? It's the same sensor as the coolant temp sensor for $40: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=

 

Damned Schucks.

 

Knock sensor will not affect your car at all, I drive with my knock sensor unplugged, even when my CHTS was bad all it would affect was my cold running. I know the car will even run with the CHTS unplugged. It won't run well, but it'll run.

 

Due yer homewerk!!!

AutoZone / Napa / CourtesyParts / Nissan only... No Checker, No Schucks, No Kragen, No Pep Boieyze! (unless it is the end of the world and all the others have burned to the ground).

 

kragen = bad ??? i thought they were reputable company, though ive never once used a part from them

 

Okay, all parts ordered just need afm and dizzy+cas if anyone has an extra for an 82-83 turbo....Snw.... Got new gaskets coming in too. Engine is fairly fresh rebuild but turbo needs refreshed. Also ordered a push button ignition and switch panel, so I can have a little more control. I will make this car run and then I am gonna kick everyones *** on the auto x track.

 

yeah i was going to say, of all else fails, just wire yourself a racing style FI system, put all the powers on a toggle and then wire up a puch button.


so what parts orderd other than gaskets?


i need gaskets, my timing cover is leaking slow slow leak but it is, and maybe even the oil pump gasket. actually since ray sent me the rest of the money today maybe i'll just rebuild the motor. lol. good news is i have a spare EVERYTHING for the motor assembly lol, crank rods block i think even head. hehehehe. i rock.

 

I ordered everything except the afm dizzy and ecu. New wiring harness is on the way. Verified compatibility with nissan. So you have an extra dizzy still snw?

 

i do..... but it doesnt have the head on it for the oil pump shaft. long story. basically you know the bottom of the dizzy has that thick metal piece thats keyed so it fits on the top of the oil pump shaft? yeah i removed that. it also doesnt come with the pig tail wire for the CAS sensor but you can buy those new.

 

I hope you've ordered a new ignition module after all of this. You're saying you can get spark to the coil if you interrupt the igniter. I'm guessing you haven't replaced it. Does the car at least crank? From the sounds of it, you're getting fuel, and before everything was working. You've wired then re-wired everything, it doesn't sound like you have a wiring problem as it was working before. You've cleaned and made sure all your grounds and connectors are good. You said when the car died and needed a tow you said the coil went out. I'm thinking towards the ignition module/igniter, whatever you want to call it. The little black box that is attached to the bracket that holds the ignition coil. It's all replaced as a whole unit. These are more likely to also cause problems when hot. It may not do anything, but get a screwdriver or something and have someone try cranking the car while you knock on the ignition module. See if you get any sort of response from it.

Also see if you can someway cancel the order from Schucks. I'd think you should be able to, as really that expensive amount of money you're putting into a CHTS could go to something like the ignition should you need it. If you ordered it through partsamerica.com you should be able to go in and cancel your order. Another good site to check would be http://www.rockauto.com

I always check between Rockauto, MSA, PartsAmerica, Courtesy, etc before ordering. As the prices vary quite a bit. Also where did you order a harness from?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/280ZX...spagenameZWD1V
Harness. Checked with nissan dealer to make sure part number is good.
As for the igniter being bad, Its not. The issue is somewhere else. I am not getting the proper voltage to the igniter. The wire going to the igniter, you can check and see on yours should have 5v, Mine has .07. The engine does crank. It sometimes gets fuel. I have been through the harness and everything looks good. I did a visual of all wires as well as putting a multi meter on them. I found nothing bad, with the exception of the power cable coming from the injector loom leading to the ecu. It was corroded. So my options are now replace everything that the wiring plugs into. And replace the wiring itself. Something is drawing to much power, I can`t figure out what.

 

does the wire voltage go up if you disconnect it from the igniter? There's a plug on the ECU, Although I'm not sure which plug it is, it's not the injector plug, but it has a black/white wire and 2 black wires, that go into a spot wrapped up by electrical tape, and 3 wires come from it. Nismopick brought this to my attention, it's the ground wires for the ECU and it's connected together by a metal connector, I guess over time it becomes corroded, or the wiring loosens up, etc. You should give this a check.

Wow, that harness that doesn't seem like too bad a price.