I`m gonna get a friend out here tomorrow and hook up the tractor and pull it to speed and see if it will run that way. That will give me a better idea of what i am dealing with.

 

lol, i dont think that will do it. but you never know i guess. go MS just dump the money. lol. if the clip is getting the proper voltage to the ignitor now but there is still no spark makes me wonder..... did you try changing out the ignitor and coil now that you got the voltage needed and making sure its grounded very well? just a thought

 

mkay i got a nice day. 73 outside . I go to let the z warm up and after awhile it stops running. then the coil gets really hot and leaks oil. my question is, from the igniter to the coil, there are two wire, one blue one black white. where do they go on the coil? which is positive, which is negative?

 

blue is negative. you need a new coil FYI hot and leaking oil means dead coil

 

ok i had it right. i think autozone sold me the wrong coil.... It was uber hot... i lost a finger print when i touched it...

 

oh really.... i got my coil from them. no problems. im polishing my valve cover!!!! its shiney. and my hands hurt. and its a bitch the stupid NISSAN OHC is soooo hard to polish..... so hard...

 

well, a new coil and vroom... back to life. Runs fantastic if i run the fuel pump in spurts, i think i need a new presure regulater.. lol when i leave the fuel pump on all the time it just pours fuel out the tail pipe.... i will figure it out.

 

Well, at least it's finally running!

 

and its like 78 today... what a good day...

 

hmmm... definatly need to check out that ragulator. got another one lying around? all FPR are the same from the late 70's and on. same part number at least on all the stores i check out.

 

Yeah I gots another. I am thinking of building a valved regulator to put in the cabin with me. (referring to it as cabin as i have to switch lots of stuff and push a button before takeoff) I start work tomorrow and will probably take the pickup until i can get the fuel thing worked out.

 

it honestly sounds like either a timing or fuel pressure issue.

 

stupid car is still fouling plugs!! any ideas?

Heres what I have done.
1. Checked timing.
2. Checked FPR.
3. Went back to stock injectors.
4. Kicked and cursed the car.
5. Got new spark plugs. (NGK platnums)
6. Gave up and havn`t touched since Wednesday.

 

CHTS. thats what caused my car to flood out. try cleaning and re-bending its connectors and then the ole' plug in unplug plug in trick see if it start on the fouled plugs like mine. if so you found teh problem and a whole bunch of black smoke should come out. remember though if it sputters like its about to start go wide open throttle cause the plugs are fouled so you need some air in there and to get the engine revs up to clean them up from the fuel.


oh i eventually replaced my CHTS and that fixed it except for when it was below 30 outside. then it just wouldnt want to stay running at idle until it was fully warmed up. IDK why but it had to be stupid cold out like that. lol.

 

Did you get rid of the air regulator? My car would start up and run mostly fine even on 5 degree and lower days, but you pretty much need the air regulator or some way to pass extra air through to keep it running. Since it's so cold the car is putting in a lot of fuel to try and keep it running and get to warm.

 

see ^^^ the thing is. idk if the air regulator works the same way its supposed to via the turbo swap instruction me and him used. its kinda shady on that matter.

 

OK folks. My car is pissing me off yet again. Got it started and runs good for a while with the fuel pump off. As soon as I turn it on the car dies again. If I rev it up it goes vroooooommmmmmm bang bang bang out the exhaust. I mean fire ***** of doom coming out. So why when the fuel pump is off does the car do ok, and when its on it dies? What is the bang pop pop out the exhaust? It almost acts as if my injectors are staying open all the time. I swear I`m gonna shoot it.

 

I had the same problems, snw suggested I clean the AFM and the wires and it fixed the problem.

 

My guess is you're running way too rich, You have so much fuel that cutting the fuel pump is at least allowing the car to not keep injecting huge amounts. I'd suspect either the CHTS telling to inject too much fuel or the Fuel Pressure Regulator may be crapped out and shut causing you to run way too rich. It could be like ray said though.

As for the air regulator, if you have the air regulator hooked up in the way that the hose from the J-pipe connects up at some point to the air regulator and then the air regulator to the throttle body, then it will work the same, but you will need electrical current or the thing to be hooked up to the coolant lines as it is on the turbo manifold, so that way it will close once the car is up to temp.

 

yup..... lol, i had a similare problem why my timing was way off also.

 

I has solution... forget your car for a day & remove the head from the donor car. I would help ya diagnose the prob if I drove up there... damn cost of gas is the only thing holding me back.

 

I will pull that head tommorow after class. LOL, gas is getting way to high priced. When will you be ready for me to ship it?

 

Yesterday. I can paypal you whenever. You're leaving the cam in place right?

 

cam wasnt part of the deal.. lol yeah Im leaving the cam unless it has to come out to remove head.

 

Nope... just loosen the head bolts from the inside out (the ones between cyl 3 & 4 first). Loosen them a lil the first time around, then all the way the second time. You can leave the cam & rockers the way they are. w00t!!!