Body work
#101
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: dayton, nevada usa
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turn signals
These just in. I want them to match the smoke rear taillights so I got some film to try. If I don't like it I'll get some clear smoke paint from ebay.
Maybe just paint the buckets black or gray.
Maybe just paint the buckets black or gray.
#102
Yeah, he's not as distracting as those other helpers.
I decided to upgrade the rear suspension with the parts I got from a '73.
The rear dif hanger, mustache bar and sway bar. The earlier cars had the dif farther forward about an inch and no sway bar. I also was saving an R200 with 3.9 gears. I think I'll have it all blasted and powder coated.
I decided to upgrade the rear suspension with the parts I got from a '73.
The rear dif hanger, mustache bar and sway bar. The earlier cars had the dif farther forward about an inch and no sway bar. I also was saving an R200 with 3.9 gears. I think I'll have it all blasted and powder coated.
Your car is clearly going to be awesome. All the progress is pretty cool...
#105
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I'll have them sand blasted and powder coated. The rear sway bar and brackets are not OEM. The Datsun bar brackets are mounted to the frame rails. The '70-'71 did not come with it.
I decided to use the R200 VLSD in this car. The R180 is shown here next to the R200. Far right is the VLSD/3.9 ratio out of the M30. The brackets from a 280z with R200 need to be used. I don't have the later mustache bar so I will have to re-drill it and might have to reshape the curves.
The diff yoke needs to be swapped or re-machined to fit the drive shaft. Also the axle shafts. They just pry out.
I decided to use the R200 VLSD in this car. The R180 is shown here next to the R200. Far right is the VLSD/3.9 ratio out of the M30. The brackets from a 280z with R200 need to be used. I don't have the later mustache bar so I will have to re-drill it and might have to reshape the curves.
The diff yoke needs to be swapped or re-machined to fit the drive shaft. Also the axle shafts. They just pry out.
#106
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I needed to bore out the flange to accept the larger hub on the '71 driveshaft and drill the bolt pattern to match. The mustache bar had to be drilled out with an end mill because it is only a little bit bigger diameter and slightly wider. A drill would not work good for this.
The alternative would be to get a bar and pinion flange from a later 5 speed car that has the R200 diff and the mustache bar with the hangers. A very easy bolt on.
The alternative would be to get a bar and pinion flange from a later 5 speed car that has the R200 diff and the mustache bar with the hangers. A very easy bolt on.
#108
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#109
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Got the diff in, drive shaft, new axle bearings, seals. The R200 went in without the later hangers being necessary. The drive shaft was almost to short. The later drive shafts are even longer. The new spindle pin bushings were too long so had to grind about 1/16" off the flange ends. They fit really tight so it was easier to put the spindle pin in and lock it down then the outer bushings. It can be difficult with one person so I put everything together after I hung the struts. The drive shaft needed new u-joints
#110
Great progress Tom. I enjoyed the photos.
IIRC I had similar issues with the spindle pin bushings and I ended up using a Dremel tool to get them to fit. These were poly bushings from Energy Suspension.
IIRC I had similar issues with the spindle pin bushings and I ended up using a Dremel tool to get them to fit. These were poly bushings from Energy Suspension.
#111
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Grandson and me got it back on the ground. Rear suspension and disc brake conversion complete. Ride height is exactly where I wanted it. Going to sand off all the paint and then spray epoxy primer sealer while the weather holds up. Haven't decided on color yet. Maybe a carbon fiber wrap.
#112
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So while the bad girl was outside, (yes Scott,Skully, the metal one) I started removing all the old paint. Cut the glass molding back and taped the glass to protect from the sander. Plan is to have flush molding for a sleeker look. I'll leave it in place to keep the dust out. Back inside in time for 1/4" of rain today.
#113
So while the bad girl was outside, (yes Scott,Skully, the metal one) I started removing all the old paint. Cut the glass molding back and taped the glass to protect from the sander. Plan is to have flush molding for a sleeker look. I'll leave it in place to keep the dust out. Back inside in time for 1/4" of rain today.
Here's a different kind of metal bad girl for you.
#114
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Still raining so I went back to body working. Not the heavenly type.
Filler on the left and rear. Finished welding the right. Added some weld beads for the filler on corner for the small dent from the bumper strike. Better than pulling the gas tank. No evidence of collision damage any where on the car.
Filler on the left and rear. Finished welding the right. Added some weld beads for the filler on corner for the small dent from the bumper strike. Better than pulling the gas tank. No evidence of collision damage any where on the car.
#115
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Join Date: Mar 2003
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Sanded and another coat. First the metalized filler, sand and finish coat. Forgot to take a pic of the welds ground smooth. Careful welding still caused some warpage that I had to bump out. I think next time I will try panel adhesive.
Last edited by theramz; 05-09-2017 at 05:54 AM.
#116
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#120
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Back at it. Some real fab work. Had the skins cut on the water jet. Made the top and bottom brackets out of 3/16 stainless. Had to wrap the sheet metal around them. Started with the radius and gradually welded around the bracket just tacking it in place. tacked in the other one and stitched it up. Took them to work and smoothed out the welds. Got some panel weld adhesive to glue everything down and bolt on the car to test fit. Ordered some carbon fiber wrap.
#124
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Finished up the filler and primered the wing. Wrapped it with carbon fiber vinyl from Vivvid. Had a piece of scrap to try on the roof to see how it would looked wrapped around the drip rail. I like it.