Seattle-1986T

Hey Guys, just wanted some input on where you would buy a couple parts, and also on some work being done.
Where could/should I buy a flywheel?
Should I have the rear main seal replaced, and if so, where should I buy it?
Heard conflicting reports on whether to get it from rockauto, courtesy, or the dealer...
Any CONSTRUCTIVE input/ advice appreciated, this is the first car I am having the clutch done on, so tips are welcome.
Thanks!
BTW if it doesnt show up in my signature, its a 1986 turbo 5 speed.

Zuphoria

Dealer for the rear main seal, or any seal at that! Whats wrong with your flywheel? Flywheels can be resurfaced just like brake rotors, any good machine shop will do it. Had my 83 280zx turbo done for 40$ back in the day.

rogerz

amazon.com parts are cheapest. I put any clutch in my cars. Depends on how hard you drive to some extent. If you try to beat every honda with an 8" exhaust pipe off the line you will wear your clutch fast. I drive fast but don't try to beat everyone off the line. do the rear seal Try Campbell Nelson up by aurora village tell them you are in a z club they usually give a discount. better yet join our club zccw.org. New pilot bearing. New clutch lever fulcrum pin (had one shatter) cheap. new throwout bearing. might as well do the hydraulics also. new master and slave cheap. unless the flywheel is noticeably worn probably okay. If looks a little sketchy then get it resurfaced. Won't cost $40 bucks in this day. zuphoria must be talking the 90's. get or rent a tranny jack if you are diy saves having it drop on your nose. You will need some long extensions to get at the tranny bolts. remove some tin and muffler underneath to make things easy. if you pressure wash wheel wells and under saves dirt in the eyes. most clutch kits come with a alignment guide tool if not get one. NAPA parts are good but a little more than others. Look at courtesy nissan kits. throw away that equalizer of whatever that is in the hydraulic system between the master and slave - all it does is make bleeding the slave harder. can be replaced with a 280zx front brake hose. to bleed the slave buy some 1/4 ID or 3/16 id clear plastic hose 6 foot probably enough HOME DEpot. Run it from the bleed screw up alongside the engine into can on top the engine so you can see it. leave a 7 mm boxwrench on the bleeder to open close. Use your hand to rapidly activate the clutch pedal as it won't return if you use your foot. Unless you want to make your left leg stronger forget the stage 2 clutch unless you really are into jumping off the line. don't let the reservoir go dry. If you need tools Harbor Freight is cheap and good. Early 84-86 Z31 my favorite. done most jobs on them. in fact here is some free advice:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.

86tcoupe

I would have the flywheel machined for sure .
and get the Nissan PP and clutch might as well get the kit ,turbo clutch's were hard to find aftermarket way back then 90's
If you do the R seal check to see if the crank is grooved where the lip was riding and avoid putting it back in the groove
with the small high speed diff ZX were not the best at drag racing ,made for high speed

Seattle-1986T

Thanks for the advice guys!
One more question...
I read somewhere about fluids, someone said I needed to use a gl4 fluid so it doesnt eat the metal in the tranny? any comments? Where can I get that?
And what do you guys use.
Thanks
BTW a mechanic is doing this, not me.
The reason I'm doing the flywheel is just safety's sake, and for peace of mind...car has 270k miles, want to replace as much as possible, so i dont have to worry about it for a while, and I have no idea when the clutch or flywheel were last done.

Zuphoria

Transmission Fluid Levels:
trans models capacity type

E4N71B automatic 7-3/8 qt Auto Trans DEXRON

FS5W71A 84-89NA 4-1/4 pt API GL-4

FS5R90A 84-86T 4 pt API GL-4 (SAE 80W-90)
or type DEXRON

FS5R30A 87-89T 5-1/8 pt API GL-4

ken99

I'm surprised your mechanic hasn't provided more advice about the flywheel. Resurfacing the flywheel is more cost effective, I just had my turned for $60 vs $250 to 300 for a new OEM unit. With 250K on the flywheel, I wouldn't be surprised if the surface isn't dished out even if no major grooves are evident.

The real question is can your flywheel be turned and still be usable? All clutch kits specify a maximum resurfacing tolerance. The Exedy kit i have permits no more than 0.030" removal from the original surface. If the clutch has been run down to the rivets, that value can easily be exceeded.

GL-4 vs GL-5? I don't think the gears in the tranny will care which fluid is used, but i seem to recall GL-5 can be hard on brass components (aka, synchronizers). I would stay with a GL-4 specification.

rogerz

with 270K miles you had better worry about your timing belt before the clutch. If the clutch goes you just stop or at least slow down. timing belt goes I have a spare engine in the garage you can buy. I wouldn't worry about the oil. by the time that GL5 Eats some brass that car will be in the crusher.

Seattle-1986T

@rogerz Timing belt has been done in last 30k ish miles if not less.
@Ken99 havent talked to a mechaninc yet, car is still with me.
So I havent removed tranny, or seen flywheel to verify that. I'm getting one sometime tomorrow of day after from vatozone, for 65.99+ tax, 250 is a lot more, but I'm assuming thats from nissan? better quality? Has anyone used vatozone flywheels? the brand is brute force i think
Link here: Brute Power/Flywheel - Manual Transmission FW9326 at AutoZone.com
And probably just gonna go with GL-4 for safetys sake.