ok so i drive a 82 280zx turbo, p90a head, f54 block if you want to get more into it. i got a garrett clone t3/t4 to replace my blown stock t3 and i was wondering if im still pushing stock boost 6-8 pounds would i still need to upgrade the fuel/air system to compensate for the bigger turbo? i've got stock turbo injectors in now but i have fox body ones in a box, i also have a custom fuel rail, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and im getting a 3" downpipe made past the cat. would i be able to use the fox body injectors safetly with the bigger turbo or would it be too much fuel since i have no way to tune this yet. thanks

 

Invest in a wide band O2 sensor... then you'll know. You need one anyway.

Also, if you bought your T3/T4 clone from ebay, expect it to die fairly quickly.

 

i got it b/c i dont drive my car all out like crazy. i did a lot of research with people buying them and the people that use them on the track dont last for **** and the people that cruise on the streets have been having them for a year or more now with no problems i just needed something im not going to beat up yet. but yea i need to get a wideband just wanted to know if anyone else had just put the fox body injectors on stock setup and been fine with it.

 

and its a vband garrett clone not the cheapest ebay turbo but yea i know its not as durable as a true garrett or brand name

 

You say that now... but boost is addicting (I'm not kidding). Once you feel 10psi, you'll be going full throttle all the time... then once you feel 12psi...

What are the specs on those injectors? Ford brown tops?

 

lol yea im going to stop myself at 8 pounds by putting that emergency release valve back in but yea i know i love boost

they are the orange tops from the fox bodys....i think they are 13lb. i got them for free and in great shape from a friend and i heard they were an upgrade from stock turbo injectors but idk by how much really havent looked into it as much

 

They better not be 13lb injectors... that equals 136.5cc. Stock L28ET injectors are 259cc.

Also... "Fox Body" doesn't give a very precise definition as they had 4cyl, 6cyl, and 8cyl engines... all requiring different fuel injectors.

So I did some research for ya: http://www.spokentorque.com/forums/s...93-Mustang-FAQ

19lb injectors = 199.5cc ... WAY too small for even stock. Hopefully you got them for free, cuz you don't want em.

 

i mean 19lb. hmmm i heard they were an upgrade for our cars :/ well its a good thing i did get them for free then lol try to sell.

 

but i really need to know if im fine running stock boost with my set up now? turbo injectors, custom fuel rail, new fuel filter, 3" downpipe with no cat, exhaust, intake, adjustable fuel pressure regulator...

 

You should be running fine w/ stock injectors on stock boost, but again, you won't know FOR SURE until you install a wide band and check your a/f ratio at full throttle.

FYI... It's the Ford SVO "Brown Top" (35lb / 370cc) injectors that are upgrades for the 280zxt:

 

Some old info here but it may help you form decisions:

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo/

 

what fuel rail is ran with those ford svo injectors? sine they appear to be O-0ring style, almost DSM identical except the impedance I know matches the stock nissan requirements.

and I would be very concerned about any knock off. stock boost or not a turbo spins in excess of 100,000 rpms and requires a HIGH level of precision. I have heard them eating themselvs alive to the wategates not functioning and they spin up to quick, explode and can even hurt the motor. Turbo is something you never cheap on unless it is a name brand and you bought it second hand.

 

i ended up selling the turbo and found out my turbo was perfectly fine so im using the stock one again and rebuilding the entire motor from ground up since piston one has a hole in it so i want everything to be new and right.

 

haha, yeah def sounds like it is REAL rebuild time. OEM rebuild or performance? cause man have I dreamt of building a completely forged motor and seeing what you can max an L series motor out at...

 

Are you talking about a 3.1 stroked Turbo? If so, I have been thinking about doing that with my Bluestreak turbo conversion/restoration.

 

no I dont believe in stroker turbo motors, they remove to much from the cylinder walls and have to much rotating mass/travel for something that needs to be responsive and take boost. stock bore and stroke is good for boost. NA a stroker would be cool for sure if built lightweight.

 

im doing a full rebuild with aftermarket and stock parts. i found out the stock rods and crank are forged from the manual?! well im going to be getting custom forged pistons made .30 over standard bore, the head is already at the machine shop getting done with new freeze plug, valve job and seals. ill be getting new acl main and rod bearings, arp main and rod bolts already have arp head stud/bolts. just bored the intake manifold for the 240sx tb and going to be converting to actually cable drive instead of the rod linkage. im also going megasquirt 2 and the works. ill be making a build thread when i get some more parts in and stuff done

 

I'm in the middle of a build as well. Check out www.northernautoparts.com - the ITM gasket set is a great deal and includes main seals and valve steam seals as well. Some of the racers have used the ITM set with good results. Says except 2+2 and turbo now didn't before. Checked with my old head gasket and its the same there so you might want to double check on that.

If you want a new oil pump they've got a great price on the Melling M111 which is the upgraded 40mm pump rather than the stock 35mm - http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=16220

Great rings - Sealed Power and cheaper than rockauto.com's $105 - http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...entoryId=36299

You'll have to call them for the pistons but they carry the ITM brand which I believe are a eutectic cast piston which is going to be your best bet unless you are tracking the car. Remember cast pistons NEED to be brought up to temp to avoid piston slap and eutectic are lighter than cast yet very resilient to detonation. You should be able to get a complete set of ITM with rings and I think they even come with the wrist pin. They are very closely balance out of the box. You should be able to get a set for around $200 - it's a steal! I don't have the part number on hand for the turbo pistons but they should be able to order them in for you. If not I've got a link on the other computer for $32 a piece.

They are also the cheapest place I could find for ARP head studs and rod bolts.

www.diyautotune.com has good pricing on wideband O2 and you'll probably need their IAC stuff as well for your MSII setup. Remember you can also do electronic boost control with MS....

 

I've read a lot on going down that path and to me it seems like its not worth the money. Very little gain for a lot of extra $$$. You're better off to spend the money elsewhere in the turbo system.... eg GT35R

 

thanks for the helpful links fricfrac! i already ordered wiesco .040 over forged pistons that came with rings, wrist pins, locking clips, and the skirt coating! im going to be getting acl rod and main bearings, and i already have arp head bolts/studs i need to get arp main and rod bolts though so i will look through them. and thansk for the oil pump link i deff needed that but yea this thing is going to be all brand new pretty much. i already have ALL the fuel and vacuum lines new and dropping the tank so i can get those lines too and getting walbro fuel pump, 480cc injectors, megasquirt, eventually bigger turbo and i already have the wiring out of the car that i wont need so all its got is the wiring for the lights and what not so its ready for the ecu now just waiting on my head to be done and my pistons to be made and shipped in 4 weeks so i can get the block to the shop and have it piston matched and all that good stuff so i can start ordering parts!! i've fixed A LOT of the previous owners shitty shitty SHITTY wiring so i will have much better contacts to the stuff i need and all that everything in and on the motor will be new as well as the fuel system and i already have new slotted and drilled rotors with new pads and new inner and outter tie rods and some other bits. i've got some more research i wanna do for a diff. and clutch but yea its going very smoothly so far

 

Didn't someone have a gt35R on their L28 and it ended up running out of air at like 2k RPM before redline?

Little late now, but i would have gone with press in wrist pins, seen to many motors grenade from the little clip breaking and tearing apart the cylinder and piston. When it's time to put it together, make sure to have the pistons and rods balanced, have the crank balanced and knife edged. And one last thing, have the clutch and flywheel assembly balanced, also try and unsprung puck clutch you will love the feel.

 

IDK if he will love the feel, only if you want a real race car feel they are VERY jerky. I know I would enjoy it on a weekend car... but not one I drove a bunch.

as for the GT35r, I have seen them run 20-25lbs of boost very healthily up to redline, even seen them spike to 30lbs at the top end... look at bigphils youtube videos. They are plenty big of a turbo

 

That's the thing, I'm pretty sure it was bigphils old setup that was running out of steam and started fluttering about 5300 RPM.

 

yea im sure the clips will be fine since the stock ones have been holding 200xxx miles but yea there are those times but im having my machinist put the pistons together, piston match the block, and look and balance the crank and stuff. yea ill be doing more research into clutches b/c this is my daily for now and as for the sensors and stuff for megasquirt i know i already ordered the closed element for coolant and need to order the open element IAT but i want to get the machining done first before i start ordering a bunch of parts i've got the pistons being made now so when those come in my head should be long done and my block will be going to him with crank and rods to get checked out and fricfrac where did you find the arp bolts on that site i cant find them?? thanks

 

and does the m111 oil pump actually fit our cars it doesnt say it on the site but can you confirm this?? http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=16220 Oil Pump Nissan Z24, Z24I Truck, Pathfinder, Van

Melling stock replacement oil pump to fit the following Nissan applications: 86-91 D21 P.U., 87-89 Pathfinder and Van with the 2.4L (2389cc) Z24 and Z24I engines.

thanks!! b/c thats a good price