well i'll be digging in to fix several oil leeks in the months coming up, so i figure it's a good idea to inquire about proper rtv application on the exhaust valve cover. apparently, last time i did not do a sufficient job. my goal was to cover the mating surface with as much as i could without risking the goo squeezing out into the head. i put a bead about the size of a capital O on your screen all around the surface and torqued it down. i've got a terrible leak from there. what is the "proper" way to do this? i don't want anymore leaks!

 

uh, dude, read the label of the RTV... it gives instructions.

 

and dont they make REAL gaskets for these cares? but yeah, it says make a bead similare to what you described then set the VC in place, let it sit a few hours and THEN torque it down once dry. it works on my thermostat neck on the talon which is under high temps and pressure so it should for not as hot oil that isnt under pressure

 

who the *** is that^^?

anyway, i read that shiz before i did it. it still leaked man.

 

Then you either didn't clean the surface well enough or you didn't let it seat properly... there are guidelines on the tube for how long to let it sit and when to torque it down. You might not have let it sit long enough before installing and torquing, or if the surface was greasy to begin with, the gasket would not adhere. Brake cleaner is your friend, in this case.

Eric - Z32's only have gaskets on two of the valve covers, the other two require liquid gaskets.

 

snwbrderphat540

 

he knows who i am, he's just being a toooooool. and i never had to replace them on my Z32 back in the day so i didnt know, it was just a question/suggestion to look into. haha.

 

yeah good stuff. i guess i didn't read those directions then, cause i didn't know anything about letting it sit before torquing. good stuff. i'll get her this time

hey you think you can shed some light on my tt.net post pretty stuck on that one.

i've just accepted that i have to keep the car for a while longer, so i'm trying to fix all the **** this year, so that i can stop worrying about anything going wrong for the rest of college

 

If your shocks/springs are old, replace them. If you go lower, get adjustable camber arms. Then get a proper alignment. Problem solved.

The fact that it's the driver's side (where there is always extra weight when being driven) suggests it's just worn out. It'd have to be a damn big pot hole to do damage to the strut towers.

 

alright good stuff. have you not seen the tread where the guy claims that the strut towers eventually bend in over time and regular use, requiring adjustment by a tower brace? it may be bs. i've only seen it in the one thread. everyone seemed to agree with him though. i'm not as worried about that though.

thanks though. i guess i was just getting a little worked up about all the possibilities when really springs and camber correction can't really go wrong i guess. unless it's caused by a prior accident, which is pretty unlikely.