first of all new to the site, i berely bought a 84 datsun 300zx 50th ae for 800 bucks. it came with a hks evc, intercooler, and 3 inch piping all the way back. when i first got it i was whoopin on almost everything. i raced a 300z na and made him looke like he slammed on the brakes. ok well my problem is that at 3k rpms it starts like stalling kind of, like fuel cut off or somethin. Then at almost every light it turns off. I dont know what it is and its gay cause i want to start whoopin on people again.

 

Clogged fuel filter? Bad fuel pump?

 

tomarrow i am going to check and if i have to replace them. Do you have any idea of any brands or n e thing i should use? and what about spark plugs and wires.

 

OEM is the best for the fuel filter and fuel pump. I wouldn't think that you're problem would be caused by bad plugs or wires. When I had a Z31, I used Bosch or Autolite plugs....they worked fine. Accel is good name for wires, but I don't know if they make them for this car. Check your cap and rotor since you're there. Clean your air filter too. It's not the cause of your problem, but it could be contributing to it.

 

I would buy a new fuel filter, and run some fuel injector cleaner in there. If that didnt fix it next I would buy new wires and plugs.
For the Z31 most people reccommend NGK spark plugs. I use them and they work beautifully.

 

today i bought the ngk platinum plugs, damn they're expensive. today i messed with it and it was fine ALL day. but right now i drove it to my uncles house and drifted a u turn and it started bogging out. im freakin puzzled.

 

Hi,
The best advice I can give (and many of us would agree) is to first buy a Haynes or Chilton manual so that you can learn about the workings of the Z31. You probably should run the ECU diagnostic to see if you can better pinpoint the problem.

Engine bogging can be caused by a number of things not limited to the following: bad mass air sensor, air leak in intake ducts, bad ignition coil, bad ignition module, fuel delivery problems (filter, pump, or even fuel press. regulator).

If you are like the rest of us, you probably don't want to take it to the dealer (because they rape you on their prices not to mention that they themselves don't always do good work anyway). Considering the logistics, you will have to learn how to work on your Z yourself or least get some diagnosing tips from someone who has experience with fuel injected motors. At any rate, this is what makes owing a Z all the more worthwhile.

Keep us posted.

Mark

 

oh i also forgot that i ran the car at 1 bar. would that make n e thing mess up as of fuel? i ran it like that for like 3 sec at the most. I heard no detanation or n e thing.

 

3 seconds isnt enough time to mess anything up, I wouldnt think that would be it.

 

i didnt think so but who knows

 

I totally agree with mark.

 

How long exactly do you think it would take? Just curious

 

well good news everyone. my car is running perfect AGAIN!!!!! FINALLY. i was starting to get very mad. i can burn out all the way threw second from like 15 miles and hour. IM SOOOOOOOOOOOO HAPPY. i changed the rotor, cap, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. thanks to all who put their two cents in.

Ryan nunez

 

HOLY CRAP!!! now its missing at higher rpms. Above 5k it starts sputtering. what am i supposed to shift at when im racing. it seems that the power dies out there. even when i shift there it still pulls really hard in the next gear. Dont they redline at 6.5k? man this sucks ***

 

mdharris11 is right.

Get the Haynes and learn you vehicle. You'll need to!

Back to your problem.... Mine did the same thing and after changing alot of my sensors and a major tuneup it still wasn't fixed. The problem ended up being the CHTS (Cylinder Head Temp Sensor) harness... not the sensor but the harness. I disconnected mine to attempt to replace it and when I didn't have enough time to finish I buttoned everything back up and reconnected it. Bam the problem went away. I still have to replace mine but at least I know where to look to keep it running. Odds are you have the same problem. The connectors get old and brittle and lose their continuity quite easy. Hope this helps.

 

To get parts, go to www.frautoparts.com I have an 84t (although not actual 50th anniversary model) and I bought everything for my car there for REALLY cheap. I've never driven it too far past the 3500 rpm mark, but I've never had any problems related to the one you're talking about. However, it does idle kinda shitty.

Try rotating your distributor cap one direction or the other while the car is on (you'll have to loosen the screws, of course, but be careful not to get shocked). The timing might be too advanced or delayed. That usually accounts for bad idling. Tell me what happens.

 

What?? Turning the distributor cap won't do anything. In order to change the timing, you have to loosen and turn the entire distributor, not the cap. If you don't have a timing light, then don't turn your distribitor. If your timing was fine before, then there's nothing you have doneotchange the timing unless something came loose. Checking your timing would be an ok suggection, but I dount that's your problem.

 

Sorry. I meant turning the distributor. As long as you only turn it a little bit, you should be fine and it shouldn't jump time and kill the valves. It's a little risky, but I've done it before.

 

HOLY ****! i just whooped a brand new corvette on the freeway. it started cutting out at 5k rpms