Got the Z back from the garage and noticed a few changes. First of all, the overall power of the car has decreased. It seems very sluggish, and doesnt want to move out of it's own way. Second of all, my idle is so low now that the car is on the verge of stalling and starts to shake. The garage did a substantial amount of work including new timing belt, pullies, and cam seals. Is it possible that they somehow retarded the timing of the cams, and thats why im having power issues? Thanks

 

why are you even posting this? you JUST got your car back from the garage who did very important and crucial work on your car. I recomend you call them and tell them u want a flat bead trailer to come pick your car up and bring it back and have them do the work right. (thats what I did when the dealership's tensioner failed on my timing belt and it was flopping around). I most definatly WOULD NOT drive the car especially if u just had timing done and it could be timing issues.

 

good answer napoleon.

 

Well the funny thing is that i posted this days ago, and already brought the car back the next day. They say they see nothing wrong with the car, and that they would take the engine back apart and take a look if i wanted. But i need a car for school so until i get a break to drop it off again i need to drive it. They told me they triple checked it when they had it and all the timing marks lined up, and i told them i didnt care. So if something gets ruined in the meantime because of this its on them. I wasn't asking what i should do, I was just asking if the power issue could be because of timing.

 

yes it could.

 

argh take out your 14 mm and 12 mm open end wrench and adjust your thoddle bodys to open up more... try that ? sorry to hear about your car problems dude dont feel bad i had my timing belt done on my 1990 300zx and the damn blet sqeeks like hell on wheels

 

I had this same issue recently when I had my alt replaced. I took it back and told them to fix the goddamn thing, now I don't have belt sqeel.

Moral: If you aren't satisfied take it back to the shop and make them fix it until you ARE satisfied. Nobody knows how your car ran before it came to the shop but you and to have a mechanic say "Oh we triple checked it so there can't be anything wrong" is just laughable.

As for needing a car for school youmight want to check with your insurance and see if they can spot you a loaner car or rental as this isn't something that is your fault. They should bill the shop. (thats the short answer.....I'm pretty tired.)

 

This Is Actually Going To Be On You If Something Happens To Your Engine Because They Offered To Take It Apart And Re-check It And You Declined Because You Said You Needed It For School. If It Were My Car I Would Have Left It Right There And Found A Different Way To Get To School.

 

No actually, they said take it for a while and if it's not good then bring it back. So it's gonna be on them. I don't have a different way to get to school.

 

The Bus........

 

I go to college...an hour and a half away....no bus

 

Cab, Carpool, Hitch Hike, Bicycle, Walk, Roller blade, Skate Board. Jogging, could be yogging with a silent J. Depends on how bad you want yoru Z running right and the risk your willing to take to blow it up.

 

They've got a point...if it's your only mode of transportation...you're risking having it blown up or in need of being in the shop even longer....then how are you going to get to school?

 

Unless you are experienced with taking your car apart I would not suggest it. If you are experiencing a power lag then the first suspicion that crosses my mind is that you are in safety boost. First run the codes on your car and see if you get a code 34 and if so you will need to look into a knock sensor, or a relocation method. ( The dealer will charge $1000-$1500. Do the relocation for $150 for the part and a longer plenum bolt. Back to smooth sailing if that is the deal.

Check your connections at the back of the motor and see if they have been cleaned recently. How about a compression test? Most importantly though, check your codes on the computer.

Just my .02

 

I definately agree---the shop needs to fix the problem. my 2 cents is: since you have decided to drive the car in its current condition, DEFFINATELY do a self-diagnostics on the ECU. that may give you a general idea of where they need to start. My car was in a similar condition right after i rebuilt the engine...it was an issue with setting the TPS, idle adjustment screw, and setting the position of the throttle body butterflys. --hope this helps--best of luck.

 

I might do that. Can i get a code reader for the ECU? Or am i going to have to bring it to the dealership for that? The car is in no danger of blowing up, so I don't think I will be skiing, sledding, catapulting, flying, rocketing, jumping, skipping, bouncing, or sky diving anywhere. Thanks though.

 

you read the codes your self, go to the FAQ section of TT.net and there is a right up.

 

Don't I need to get a reader though to see what the code is?

 

no, you look at the blinky lights, and then you check here or an FSM to see what they mean. code reader is a waste of money and 100% unnecessary.

 

Where are the lights located?

 

did you even bother to read the link i put up? the underlined "here" in my last post is the link. the entire procedure is there. the lights are on the ECU.

 

I prefer to watch the check engine light, i find it easier to see. but either way.

 

That BlaZt software and cable that I bought is actually a pretty useful tool. It's mote than just a code reader.

 

I have Blazt, its fun to mess around with so much info I can get lost staring at it lol, error logs, real time monitoring of sensors... all that good stuff supposedly can even change air to fuel ratio and some other stuff but I aint lookin to mess up my engine
Edit: lol... im a moron... was lookin at conzult just now and put in conzult when I meant blazt...

 

yeah, thats why i said a code reader was worthless. i'm seriously considering getting BlaZt. it seems like it would be well worth it.