SPL Clutch Line Kit Installation

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Sep 25, 2004 | 02:45 PM

Riz Z Speed

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Administrative Brown Guy

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 5,406

From: Ontario, Canada

SPL Clutch Line Kit Installation

This obviously began with the failure of the stock hose. Pedal goes all the way to the floor with barely any pressure. Good sign that something's wrong.

I ordered and recived the kit in about 4 days time. It arrived in a nice yellow envelope. Clutch line hose, banjo bolt, 2 copper washers, and a pair of speed bleeders were the whole package.

The clutch line itself was well made. All joints were seamless in apperance. The speedbleeders appeared just like regular bleeders. But whatever, sure, i'll buy into it.

Well, first things first. E-brake, car in gear, chocks in place, and car is secure. Jacked the front passenger side up about 2 1/2 feet up so I can get under it. If you have access to a lift even better, as you'll need to be under the vehicle completely for this installation.

First, remove the 12mm banjo bolt from the slave cylinder/operating cylinder. Be sure to capture escaping brake fluid in proper container.

Second, undo the other end of the hose from the metal clutch line. You'll need a 10mm flared end wrench. It's basically a brake line. Remove the clip that's holding the hose to the body. It should come right out.

Reverse these steps for installation of new hose. At the rear of the line, you'll need a 17mm wrench. The banjo bolt is 15mm. The copper washers go on either end of the bolt, one against the cylinder, one against the bolt head.

I used the speedbleeders that were provided by SPL. You can choose to leave the factory ones in place. Since mine were all covered in crap and threads were rusty, I chose to replace mine. Stocks are 10mm and the SPL speed bleeders are 8mm. There are two places to bleed the line. The first is right next to the clutch line on the slave cylinder. The second is in the engine compartment on the passenger side fender well. I replaced that bleeder screw as well.
http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/cl/008.gif

Now at this point you should have the installation completed and it's now time to bleed the system. Fill the clutch fluid reservoir.

Attach a hose to the bleeder screw to direct escaping fluid into a catch can. Start with the lower one at the slave cylinder. Pump the clutch pedal until pure fluid comes out. You'll most likely have to do this by hand since the pedal will sink to the floor and won't come back up. When nothing but fluid comes out of the lower bleeder, tighten it up. Then move on up to the engine compartment. Loosen/replace the top bleeder after attaching hose&catch can. Pump pedal until only fluid is escaping again. Tighten and pump pedal again. Pressure should return to pedal. If not repeat bleeding procedure.

Top off clutch fluid reservoir and replace cap. Done.
See easy.