ArmyZ

Hey you guys... I'm about to run through some of the "first things first" kind of maintainance that needs to be done on my Z. I just bought it... so i want to get everything i can think of that needs to be done or should be done taken care of so i'm at a fresh-starting block.

Here's a list of some of the stuff i have planned so far.


120k Kit contains:

3 Drive Belts
Water Hoses (Quantity 2)
Crankshaft Sprocket Plate
Water Pump & Water Pump Gasket
Camshaft O-Ring Seals (Quantity 2)
Camshaft Oil Seals (Quantity 4)
Tensioner Springs (Quantity 2)
Timing Belt Tensioner
Thermostat
Belt Tensioner Stud
Idler Pulley & Stud
Secondary Idler Pulley & Stud

This one is from www.courtesyparts.com ... @ 506.72

Some other things i want looked at and replaced unless they appear brand new or in really great condition:

EGR and PCV Valves
Fuel Dampener
A/V Valve Assembly
Vapor Lines, Brake Lines (you guys recommend upgrading to some kind of aftermarket high speed stainless or braided lines?), + cambles, rear main seal, any other readily visible places for potential leaks.
Install Speed Bleeders
Brake pads/rotors, Air/Oil Filters + oil change.
Transmission Fluid and differential gear oil
Steering gear/linkage, axle, and suspension parts.
Spark Plugs, Fuel Filter, HICAS Linkage.
Exhaust Components (checked for leaks etc.)
All hoses, vaccum lines, wires/harnesses
Throttle Bodies(more than likely just thourougly cleaned)
Oil Pressure Sensor
Inspect Sprockets for wear/tear/cracks or damage.

After all that...
Compression Test, Fuel Pressure Test, Boost Leak Test (better not be one after i replace all the hoses, etc.), Make sure mechanical timing is dead on, Then of course a 4 point alignment.


Anything i might have missed... please fill me in... or tips on anything i've mentioned... i would greatly appreciate.

Also any recommendations for the intake parts? I might as well upgrade to some snazzy aftermarket stuff... any favorites?

Tks

ArmyZ

things i have already done...

Newly rebuilt transmission still under warranty
New radiator, new injector wiring harness, new water temp sensor, new valve cover gaskets, new telescoping antenna, new battery, new PCV hoses, And it's also had the conversion to a R134-a coolant system.

bardabe

Manual conversion. and FMIC.

ArmyZ

Road head is easier in an Automatic lol... so i'm gonna keep it.

And will the FMIC make that big of a difference? I could always upgrade the sidemounts...

CanyonCarver

clean iacv too....... prolly more noticable improvement over just the t/b's.

ArmyZ

Good idea... probably get a good look at or replace the IACV Hoses too...
Also going to install an EGT guage w/ switch so i can toggle between two sensors.

b300z

auto < manual
theres nothin better than slipping the clutch at redline and slamming thru the gears...its gotta be like 5 times better in a TT too

if you want road head...take your womans car

yes, get SS brake lines

definately look at the iacv and air regulatory valve on the left of it

do you already have an aftermarket intake? you might just be able to clean it

91zxtt

Well let's see.....


-PCV valves are a good idea to replace. PCV hoses too.
-EGR is not.....the labor is awful. Virtually impossible with the engine in it.
-Fuel dampner...probably not necessary.
-AIV valve assemly...depending on where you live, either upgrade to test pipes and remove the cats or install midpipes with hi-flow cats. Either way you can remove the AIV assembly.
-Install braided brake lines, speedbleeders and use synthetic 'blue' brake fluid. 300 degree master cylinder brace would be something to look at also. Upgrade pads and rotors. slotted/drilled/dimpled,...whatever your preference is, but anything is an upgrade over stock.
-Air filter - Stillen/JWT/ cone style POP charger.
-Oil Filter - K&N, WIX or OEM. FRAM/PENNZOIL are both crap. See Rizz's link page.
-Redline tranny fluid.
-Steering gear and linkage are probably fine. There are lots of suspension upgrade available. Rizz has or is working on a sticky for that.
-Spark plugs...NGK PFR 6B-11B is best in the TT stage 3 and above.
-Fuel filter...replace with OEM. Again, FRAM is crap.
-HICAS linkage...not much do here. Leave it the way it is or install a HICAS eliminator. SPL sells the best one IMHO.
-Rear main seal...can only be inspected with tranny out and clutch/flywheel removed. Change it when you replace the clutch.
-Exhaust components...install downpipes to get rid of the restrictive Pre-cats. Installe midpipes or test and a good cat-back system. Check out Specialty Z.
-Replacing all of the hoses and vacuum is quite a task, but a good idea.
-Replacing the EFI harness is difficult. It's easier with the engine out of the car, but doable as long as the upper plenum is removed. A good idea.
-Throttle bodies...just clean them. They don't become a restriction until you are running massive boost and major HP. 650+ RWHP. Even then it is a very minimal gain.
-Oil pressure sensor....if it hasn't gone bad yet, it will eventually. A very common problem.
-Sprockets...they're probably fine. I've never heard of a problem with them. Sometimes the crank spocket needs to be replaced when the it's removed to install the main seal, but other than that, not usually a problem.

I don't recall,....do you have an upgraded ECU? If not, look into it. ASHSPEC is one of the best.

ArmyZ

I already have a JWT Pop Charger installed. I've located an intake... from a guy that goes by TurboZ on TT.net. Powdercoated pipes with black rubber connections. Looks sharp.
I have an ASHPEC ECU... and i'm probably going to get a nice aftermarket plenum... so i'll do the EFI harness at the same time.

Thanks for all the great input.

Mousier158

deffinately a new oil pump. the oil and water/coolant systems are the weak spots on the VG30. i also advise before you get too many go fast goodies, to unsure you have the ability to harness that power...ie suspension and brake system upgrades. in your cockpit i recomend smaller diameter steering wheel and a more sturdy seat to hold you in place around the turns. Just my opinion.

p.s. congrats on the OIF medal...i bet thats how your funding the car
im green with envy

91zxtt

I've never read about a terminal engine failure with these cars due to the oil pump being inadequate. I've only seen people upgrade the oil pump when they do a compete rebuild and build-up.

I'll agree with you in regards to cooling being an issue with them. Get a larger radiator. Z1 sells a nice Howe aluminum radiator for a fair price. Also, suspension and brake mods are necessary. Your stock shocks and springs may not exactly feel worn, but they probably are. You'll notice a huge difference with upgraded brakes and suspension.

Disregard Bardabe's comment about the FMIC. Unless you're running huge boost you don't need it. Even then it's a marginal improvement.

ArmyZ

Yeah i know... FMIC is for looks... i chat with him daily... 16yr old kids are all about bling and show-no-go

kids *sigh* lol

OIF funding did help me buy a Z lol... but i've also got a wife and bills and house and her car and all that to look after lol... i would have bought the Z regardless... my mustang was stolen last may just before i got deployed lol

I was already looking into the Radiators at Z1... thanks a lot guys... keep the suggestions coming.

ArmyZ

K this is what i've decided.

Most of the stuff i wanna do is non-essential... so i'm gonna wait till i get back so i can crack her open and do it myself. The stuff i'm gonna have done by a mechanic (so i dont have to worry about it on my 2 week leave) is all the most important... "gotta do it so my car doesnt' break down" kind of ****.

Gonna do all my tests first... to make sure the engine is still in sound condition and worth putting money into. sooo...

Compression Test
Fuel Pressure Test
Pull the intercooler pipes and look for any signs of oil.
Mechanical Timing Set to 15*

Now assuming all of those things check out.

I'm going to go ahead and put the aftermarket intake hardpipe kit on. From this guy. Click Here Cuz i'm not really into chrome a whole lot i'm going with the black powdercoated w/ black connectors and t-bar clamps.

After that we'll make sure all hoses and stuff are in good condition and the intake was installed correctly with a Boost Leak Test.

So noowww... assuming everything has gone according to plan. With everything opened up and what not...

I'm going to get the 120k maintainance kit described above installed.
Oil Pressure Sensor changed.
New NGK PFR 6B-11B spark plugs
Redline Transmission Fluid change
Rear Differential Gear oil change
Oil Change, K&N. WIX. or OEM filter with that
Fuel Filter - OEM
PCV Valves and Hoses with all new clamps


That's all the upfront ****... If ya'll see something i may have missed that is a "must be done ASAP" kind of thing. Please let me know. Remember i'm not doing the "well you might as well do this and this and that while the engine is cracked open" kind of stuff because I want to do that personally.