Hey guys and gals, how is everyone? I had a question that i am not sure if there is going to be a definite answer from the little amount of info that i know but here goes..... i just got done replacing all six of my injectors not more than 3 months ago. that includes me getting off the plenum and all that. i also replaced the seals for the cam covers (the top two) because one of them was leaking oil causing a strong smell when the car warmed up. I got it all back together and it ran awesome. except i noticed that there was a small pinging type noise coming from somewhere near the front end of the engine. it sounded kinda like a sticky lifter so i went ahead and put some seafoam into my oil, but no fix. so i just figured i would leave it and see how it goes since i had just gotten the damn thing back together after being carless for more than 2 weeks. now my car is having some odd power surging problems and sometimes it stalls when i first start it up. (The power surging problems are sort of the ones you would experience with a back knock sensor, with the engine running rough from about 1000 to 3000 rpms then it smooths out) so i checked the connector to that and i soldered the two wires together leaving the connector off and just going wire to wire. now the problem seemed fixed for a bit then its back and i dont know what to do. i dont want to take the car apart again becuase i have no idea what the deal is and i dont want to just start replacing parts because i am looking to sell it soon and possibly get a used low milage twin turbo or a 350z. so any help would be greatly appreciated and i would be glad to answer any and all questions for some impotant bit of info i might have left out.....i hope you guys can help me out since im 18 and you more than likely have more Z experience than me.....please help. Im wondering two things what is my problem and what is that weird noise i am hearing that wont go away......

 

hmmm....check your compression and spark on all cylinders first off. let us know what you get. also check your plugs while they are out tell us their condition.

 

Ok that is wrong. You need to have some resistance in the wire to get the ECU to read that the Det Sensor is working correectly. Do you have an NA or a TT? I would not run a TT without the det sensor. Read the codes off your ECU first and foremost and then try everything else. Run a search and you will find a write up I am sure. Good luck!

 

Hey man what kind of front bumper is that on that z in the picture? i like it a lot... oh yea i ran the ecu codes and the knock sensor is the on i got before i tried to fix it....i have an NA as well

 

its a 99 + J'spec front fascia....i love they way they look

 

That is definately a clean looking car....

 

Thanks for the compliments.

Instead of solderings the wires together, put a resistor in the path instead. I want to say a 1mega ohm resistor. That way the ECU says "Hello, there is something there that I am looking at and it seems to be working, here is a code 55"

 

WOOO go code 55...screw you safe mode

 

are there any downfalls to connecting a resistor?

 

If I'm reading this right, then you shouldn't need the resistor. I'm reading that you eliminated the connector by soldering the wires together, leaving the knock sensor still connected. The resistor is only needed if you have completely disconnected the knock sensor.

 

He said he left the connector off. which is what led me to believe he didnt connect the Knock Sensor. But if the det sensor was bad and he left it connected, then he will need a resistor to stop the 34. I had a 34 for a long time. I replaced the det sensor, the sub harness and the EFI Harness. No more 34...

 

Since he said he soldered the wires together, that's what got me thinking he just elimiated the connector and hard-wired it. He wasn't real clear. You're right about how you described bypassing the knock sensor.

 

yeah but then your motor isnt sensing knock ever...there is that chico priests thread about this similare situation and then a post on TT.net on a way to relocate it to save lots of time and money and still ahve aknock sensor...while slightly less effective still better than none

 

Yes, its a 1M ohm resistor. I had this same problem and used this as a troubleshooting tool to figure out I had a good sensor and bad wiring to the ecu. but I wouldnt recommend it as a permanent solution, if you get a 55 after crossing the 2 wires with a 1 Mohm resistor then you need a new sensor.

 

hmm...sounds like a good diagnosis method then at least.

 

There are a couple different methods of relocating the sensor. I believes it was Nixit that put it on the back of thte block. Some people put it on the back passepger side bolt on the plenum. Do some research and find whats best for you. If you have an NA I would think the plenum location would suffice.

 

I will see what happens when i replace the wire with a resistor, that is when i get some damn free time....