DRZ32

Hey Guys,

I just bought my first Z a few months ago (First import sports car, but after seeing my dad love his 4 Z's, I had to buy one.). 1995 2+2. I am the second owner and it came with 83K original miles and the timing belt 60K service already done. Yes, I know it is not a turbo... I have two young kids that I enjoy taking places with me...nuf said.

Shortly after buying the car, I noticed a few minor issues that I knew would require some attention... it was leaking a small amount of oil, and the throwout bearing was going bad. I quickly replaced the PCV valves, and it helped the leak, but didn't completely resolve it, so I knew I needed a new RMS.

NOW the interesting part. I was out driving and catastrophic clutch failure...

Originally I thought that throwout bearing seized... haha, nope.



Guess that spring was dragging a little on the pressure plate fingers...


So ordered new parts:
OEM Clutch Kit (Not going to waste money on the NA... either a TT swap or VG45DE is the ultimate motor...)
Rear Main Seal
Rear oil pan seal
RMS retainer gasket
Z1 motorsports solid aluminum transmission mount (old one torn)
Z1 solid shifter bushings
New Shift ****

BIGGEST Surprise of the repair!

After fitting the RMS retainer to the block, I finger tightened all 4 M6 bolts. I tightened two, and started to tighten the third, and snapped off the bolt in the block! This was with one hand on a 1/4 ratchet.

After a few choice words, I demonstrated to my dad what just happened by turning the last bolt... it snapped off too!

I am thinking, did I cross thread them? No, I finger tightened them... WTH?

So I took off the RMS retainer, and fortunately, they broke off just before going into the block. So I reached up and turned them out by hand! No cross threading.

Here is what I think happened, so I can give a word of advice to all. Based on some evidence, I think this repair was done by the first owner at some point. I think whoever did it, only seated one side of the RMS retainer... and then used the bolts to pull the retainer to the block to seat it. This I am sure put a lot of stress on the bolts...thus the easy break. SO... seat the retainer BEFORE tightening bolts. This can be done by starting it by hand and then getting a rubber mallet to seat the other side up to the block. THEN start and tighten bolts.

While waiting on parts, I cleaned everything and started looking at the exhaust. My wife and I are about to close on our new house, so I couldn't afford to do all the mods you would usually do when you have everything out... I was looking at that stock resonator. My thoughts were, why do I want an extra set of mufflers? Also, I bet there is no cross over inside, and we have all seen dyno results of H or X pipes making better power than straight duals. So I made an H-Pipe to replace the resonator.

Ignore the ugly welds, I don't have a TIG welder, just a MIG... and I accidentally burned out the edge of the crossover pipe on the first pass, so I had to beef it up a bit to make sure I wouldn't have any leaks.

Got it installed and the whole car back together. It is a LOT louder and deeper, and while I am still babying the new clutch, I feel as though I got a little more low end torque out of the deal. A guess I will find out in about 500-700 miles.

This is a long first post, but I had a lot to say! Love my Z32! Here is my Z, next to my dad's. Had to do the repairs in his garage since my new house (with a 1000 sq.ft. shop!!! is not done yet.)

Skully

Wow, do you know what clutch kit is that? Doesn't look like much wear before it failed on the spring. Other than that, looks like a sweet ride!

DRZ32

Thanks!

I assume it was an OEM clutch kit. The word Nissan was on the disc. The throwout bearing was crap, but the clutch felt great... right up until the point it failed.