so my buddy called me cause he knew i used to have a z32tt and explained to me his car keeps cutting off.. i figured it was an idle issue until i drove it, the car pulls like it should, however if u hit around 60 or above and attempt to take the car out of gear to let it coast it will just die, but it will only do it at 60 or above. it will start right back up with no problems, but this is an issue that i have never encountered so i decided ill come and ask for a bit of advise, i am thinkin maybe the MAF, but not sure.

 

mine was doing something similar, but in an s130.....i swaped to the z31 maf/ecu...works much better....but i don't know aboot the z32...sorry. The prioblem was a toasty afm.

 

hm i need more details to know what it is or possibilites, that explains very little, tell us how the car idles, how it revs, can u rev it past 3000 does it boost fine, etc. more detail please.

 

yeah.. lets talk about boost... does it have aftermarket BOV's ? also, is it only over 60 like after you do a full pull in a gear and let off it dies?

 

I would assume that it has an aftermarket air filter. There is a common problem with certain air filters and when some of the plastic shields in front of and under the radiator are missing. The filters and missing shields cause too much turbulence to the air going into the MAF. This turbulence is known to cause the problem that you describe.

If any of the shields are missing, they need to be replaced. If you have an aftermarket cone filter, there is a trick where you run two rows of duct tape along the length of the filter. The filter is positioned in the car where the duct tape strips are facing forward, so that some of the air is deflected away from the MAF.

If the duct tape trick works as a test, Ash on tt.net did a nice write-up where he actually uses plastic flower pots as a permanant fix.

 

could also possibly be a fuel problem

 

There are ALOT of possible problems. Considering that the car seems to run fine except when pushing the clutch in and coasting at a relatively high speed, I'm only suggesting that this would be one of the first things that I would check. This is a common problem with the Z.

 

I know, I'm just saying... trying to get him to look at all the options

 

I had the same problem once, my car shut off on the off ramp once when I took it out of gear. I took it to a shop and they found that I had a small vacuum leak and one of my injectors was messed up, after I got it out of the shop, I changed the MAF just to be safe and now it runs like a champ

 

so here is how it is.. the car boost fine.. i do believe i said it pulls like it should. now.. the car is all stock minus aftermarket mufflers not an exhaust, but just mufflers. stock airfilter, and all... "also, is it only over 60 like after you do a full pull in a gear and let off it dies?" now to answer that question.. yes it is only at and over 60 that we have had this issue...."bardabe hm i need more details to know what it is or possibilites, that explains very little, tell us how the car idles, how it revs, can u rev it past 3000 does it boost fine, etc. more detail please. " it revs jus fine sitting still, and while moving, the idles great, and yes it will rev past 3000, however i will double check how well it revs above 3000 to backup my statement,... ill get back to you guys asap... i appreciate the positive responses...

 

boost leak?

but it shouldnt if it boosts fine. what pressure does your boost gauge tell you?

strange

try cleaning the filters, and any electrical connectors you can get to

 

..... also try cleaning the t/b's and AAC valve.

 

tps? if its getting hte wrong signal/bad signal for where the throttle should be compared to where it is? or no?

 

you know i was thinking the same thing.. that actually sounds logical.. but yea i didnt think about cleaning the airfilter

 

I had the similar problem with my dads saturn, after revving the **** out of the car at high speeds the car would die after putting the clutch in. The problem was the EGR valve. To test this unplug the vacuun hose to your EGR valve and plug the hose with a golf tee, srew, etc, and take the car for a run to see if the problem happens again. If the problem does not happen then you found your problem. The EGR valve will most likely need to be replaced. After sourcing yourself a new valve that I'm sure some has for cheap or a eliminator kit (SPL parts has one) put it in. If you go with a new valve clean your passages to the vavle by starting the car it will rev up on it's own so shut it down when it does. This caused by the huge vacuum leak you create by taking off the EGR. By starting it will suck all the crap out of those lines. If your problem happens after your road test sorry good luck.

 

Don't bypass the EGR. The pros do not outweigh the cons.

 

yup. theres basically only 3 good things about removing EGR: its cheap, dont have to worry about it causing anymore problems, and a slight increase in gas mileage


replacing the EGR on a z is no easy job, so make sure that is your problem before trying to start on fixing it.
more info on the EGR can be found in the service manual in Rizz'z link page below. its in the engine fuel and emissions control section. page 42 in the same section would be a good place to look thru as well

 

The major cons of removing the EGR are...the increased likelihood of detonation and it's much more difficult to pass smog.