Oninous

I uploaded a video to YouTube with details. I'm at a loss here and not sure what to do. Any advice would be appreciated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il7O6JHyjJI

ZLover4Life

I see you replaced many fuel components and checked ignition components, but did you ever bother with the third piece of the puzzle? Check MAF connections and the sensor itself.

Oninous

When I get some more daylight tomorrow, I'm going to verify that the MAF is actually working correctly. If the MAF is actually not working, I'll be peeved as I bought MAF cleaner before all this and cleaned it carefully as per online and bottle instructions. I have within the last 2 weeks, checked and cleaned a ton of connections under the hood, including the MAF connector. But to add more details; This actually happens at cruising and idle. If I'm maintaining speed it's like the engine just loses power suddenly and I've only tried pumping the gas pedal a few times so not sure if that helps but after 5 or 10 seconds it recovers. It can happen once, a couple of times, or not at all on the freeway. It also happens at idle but it seems rarer. As of the problem starting roughly 2 weeks ago and all the driving I've done, it happening at idle has happened maybe 3 or 4 times. When it does happen, it stalls out. I'm guessing that it doesn't die on the freeway is because it's in gear and the forward motion keeps the engine running. Since this problem has happened, I verified that the TPS and IAA are set spot on. I did check the vacuum recently also. It metered at 19-21 and it was bouncing back and forth. That is indicative of a leaky valve seal but it has had that symptom for the last 5 months and ran fine.

ZLover4Life

lol I suspect it's possible that your "MAF cleaner" destroyed your MAF.

Did you use di-electric grease on the connectors? If you didn't, your cleaning and reconnecting them could've aided the development of corrosion.

Oninous

I did use a can labeled "MAF Cleaner" from Autozone and yes, I used dielectric grease. I also followed the instructions in the Online Field Service Manual for "unstable idle" and unplugged the sluggish/weak driver's side O2 sensor and my idle seems solid now. Also, I have had no stalling with the limited driving I've done since.

ZLover4Life

Glad you resolved it.

A little tip for future reference - not everything sold at Auto Zone that claims to do certain things actually does those certain things. I once saw a bottle of something at Auto Zone that claimed to be able to seal a cracked block... probably still have a picture of the label if you'd like to see it.

My point - just because you read the label and it said it was safe for MAFs doesn't mean it's safe for MAFs. Fuel injector cleaner is also very bad for early pintle fuel injectors. Do your research before using those products.

Oninous

Good advice. I'll pocket that for future reference. Also, I did see something they were selling that said you could seal a cracked block with it and then use the vehicle normally! LOL I was laughing hysterically for at least an hour after. Anyway, I'm not sure if things were caused by the bad O2 sensor or being hidden because of the safety mode. At least I know I have to fix the O2 sensor. Strange thing is, the ECU is still popping 55's... Maybe it's using the other side's O2 sensor to map the mixture? I don't get it.

Oninous

OK I'm still having the stalling problem but otherwise, my idle is rock solid. I have to replace the O2 sensor for sure and I'm going to order a consult adapter tonight. I hope it helps.

ZLover4Life

If it's idling ok, when does it stall? At constant speed? When you're decelerating? When?

Oninous

That's the strange thing. It hasnt died at idle in the last couple of days but it was stalling at cruising speed while going a constant speed. Never under deceleration or acceleration. The last time it died at idle was when I posted that youtube video.

ZLover4Life

Well constant speed is when your O2 sensors are active and your EGR valve is active.

Did you ever properly diagnose (and replace if necessary) your O2 sensors?

And you might want to look into eliminating the EGR system - it's not necessary on the Z32, and if it's broken (or its vacuum lines are improperly routed) it can cause serious issues.

Oninous

Is there a quick and easy way to disable the EGR temporarily to see if that helps?

Small update: I removed the plenum cover and stuck a screw driver on each injector. all were ticking but while I was checking one, I put the screwdriver on it and started to lean over and listen, the engine just... stopped... no putting, no choking, just stopped. It re-started right away and I checked the rest of the injectors. I'm starting to think this is electrical. Before that, I took a short drive after it not stalling all day on me, and it started to loose power while driving. pumping the gas didnt help so I decided to experiment and pull it out of gear. It stalled immediately. Whatever is the problem, it seems to be getting worse. Just for the record, I've tested the following;

IAA (Replaced)
Fuel Filter (Replaced)
Fuel Pressure Regulator (Replaced)
MAF (Tested)
Injectors (Tested)
Power Balance (Tested)
Vacuum (Tested with gauge and via pcv hose pinch test)
TPS (tested and set)
Fuel Pump Relay (Replaced)
Ignitions Coils (Tested)
Knock Sensor (Replaced and Relocated)
Passenger O2 Sensor (Tested)
Driver O2 Sensor (BAD! Awaiting Replacement but running with unplugged)
Alternator (Replaced)
Thermostat (Replaced)
Radiator (Replaced)
EGR Solenoid (Replaced)
PTU (Replaced)
CAS (Tested)
Multiple Connections Cleaned and grease applied

hoov100

Check fuel pressure before you replace anything else. Just replacing parts is lower then an uneducated guess.

Oninous

As soon as I get the money, I'm going to buy a gauge to test the fuel pressure. May take a while though. I could get it now but what would you choose first? New O2 Sensor+Consult connector or Fuel pressure tester? I have to choose between them.