What oil filter do you use?
11-07-2008, 01:40 PM
#1
Obsessive Craigslist Disorder
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: az
Posts: 569
What oil filter do you use?
just as the title says what oil filter do you guys use?
i have yet to personally do my own oil in my z and i was wondering which oil filters you guys use and what you think of them. and yes i did read the filter write up on the general z info page
i have yet to personally do my own oil in my z and i was wondering which oil filters you guys use and what you think of them. and yes i did read the filter write up on the general z info page
11-07-2008, 03:03 PM
#6
Obsessive Craigslist Disorder
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: az
Posts: 569
well i know different brand oil filters are better than others. i have used bosch oil filters for the longest time in my 300sd but it was diesel and it called for it i just want to do right for my z
11-07-2008, 03:07 PM
#7
The Evil Twin
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Bosch is good in my opinion.
I use K&N in my truck because it has had synthetic oil since new and I go for longer durations between oil changes.
I order filters online. Its cheaper. http://www.importedcarparts.com
I use K&N in my truck because it has had synthetic oil since new and I go for longer durations between oil changes.
I order filters online. Its cheaper. http://www.importedcarparts.com
11-07-2008, 04:44 PM
#10
Über User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
k&n is ok but for a driving maching like a Z32 i'd use nothing but mobil or oem. fram is crap because its very thick, catches alot of crud really well but also can clog easily or not let the oil flow at the rate it should
Only makes sense to use on a Z because everything is so tight under the hood it makes me think I'm working on a damn jet.
11-08-2008, 12:27 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: z junk yard
Posts: 1,271
I use K&N oil filters in all my z cars when your changing out your oil every 3000 miles k&n oil filters last alot longer and i belive it says on the box that its good for 5,000 miles ? also the 1" socket to install the k&n oil filter on the z-32 helps out alot in stead of useing the old hand tight or knuckle busting oil filter wrench !
10w30 k&n oil filter.... i like to use Valvoleen or GTX non sysntec.
But the SYSNTHETIC oil seems to last longer than 4000 miles in a z-32 with out breaking down like normal oil...
does any one use any oil additives ?
10w30 k&n oil filter.... i like to use Valvoleen or GTX non sysntec.
But the SYSNTHETIC oil seems to last longer than 4000 miles in a z-32 with out breaking down like normal oil...
does any one use any oil additives ?
11-08-2008, 12:35 PM
#15
Obsessive Craigslist Disorder
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: az
Posts: 569
yeah in my cars i usually put in 10-30 in the winter and 10-40 or 20-50 in the summer since i do live in az and 10-30 is only supposed to be ok for 108 ambiant air temp if i am remembering correctly
11-08-2008, 04:50 PM
#18
Hoov for Pres!
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tempe AZ
Posts: 959
Oil....
Filters...
First off.
Fram has had lawsuits from car manufacturers because of faulty design.
Second...
Bosch, Car and Driver, Champ, Deutsch are the same filter... A low performance filter. Not bad. But, why be a brand ***** if they are the same?
Also, K&N and Mobil1 performance filters are the SAME filter.
All filters just named are made by Champion Labs.
The Anti-drainback valve (check valve) material in Fram filters is made out of rubber, which seals the rough metal back plate to a cardboard filter end cap. This leaks commonly, and introduces contaminated oil into your engine.
I would strongly suggest against using Fram filters. I am a "hater".
I am also a big fan of Diesel engine oils in older flat tappet, and OHC to rocker designed engines like the L series engine.
The big concern is that when these engines were created, there was a high concentration of Zinc found in motor oil. The purpose of the zinc is to create a soft metal bearing like media between wear parts of the engine. This created a high sheer strength in the oil itself. Meaning that during metal to metal contact areas like our cams to rockers, they never really touched.
Zinc was removed from oil more and more over the years to keep catalytic converters from failing. It is however still prominent in diesel engine oils. But, that will be changing too, as more and more diesel engines are fitted with catalytic converters.
Other than that, I would use a good synthetic based oil. They have good cleaning additives, and thus are higher mileage, and more uniform in design.
Also synthetic oil like Mobil 1 synthetic is not a true synthetic, just a better controlled base of molecules. I can argue that point as well. Look at synthetic created oil prices for NASA.
The term is misleading. Yes, it can be considered synthetic, because it it not naturally occurring. However it is made from the same materials, and it is not chemically engineered.
Synthetic is thought to cause leaks... This is partially true. Because of it's cleaning ability, and different additives, it can clean clots in seals like valve seals, and cause them to show proof of what damage there already was. There are also arguments that because of different additives in the newer design of the oil that they can have adverse effects on rubber seals. I have not seen good proof on that however.
Some thoughts on contamination control of engine oil.
Do not run engine for short periods of time. This can cause condensation inside the engine. Creating water contamination, and breaking the film strength of oil significantly. Try not to start vehicles, that are not going to warm up to an oil temp that will evaporate the water in the oil. This is even more important in humid, and cooler climates.
Make sure you have good filters on breathers. They can allow dirt entry into the system.
Practice common cleanliness. Don't take the new filter out of the box, until it is ready to be installed.
That's all I can say about oil for now. I don't want to get more involved. Thought it might be useful to the forum however.
Filters...
First off.
Fram has had lawsuits from car manufacturers because of faulty design.
Second...
Bosch, Car and Driver, Champ, Deutsch are the same filter... A low performance filter. Not bad. But, why be a brand ***** if they are the same?
Also, K&N and Mobil1 performance filters are the SAME filter.
All filters just named are made by Champion Labs.
The Anti-drainback valve (check valve) material in Fram filters is made out of rubber, which seals the rough metal back plate to a cardboard filter end cap. This leaks commonly, and introduces contaminated oil into your engine.
I would strongly suggest against using Fram filters. I am a "hater".
I am also a big fan of Diesel engine oils in older flat tappet, and OHC to rocker designed engines like the L series engine.
The big concern is that when these engines were created, there was a high concentration of Zinc found in motor oil. The purpose of the zinc is to create a soft metal bearing like media between wear parts of the engine. This created a high sheer strength in the oil itself. Meaning that during metal to metal contact areas like our cams to rockers, they never really touched.
Zinc was removed from oil more and more over the years to keep catalytic converters from failing. It is however still prominent in diesel engine oils. But, that will be changing too, as more and more diesel engines are fitted with catalytic converters.
Other than that, I would use a good synthetic based oil. They have good cleaning additives, and thus are higher mileage, and more uniform in design.
Also synthetic oil like Mobil 1 synthetic is not a true synthetic, just a better controlled base of molecules. I can argue that point as well. Look at synthetic created oil prices for NASA.
The term is misleading. Yes, it can be considered synthetic, because it it not naturally occurring. However it is made from the same materials, and it is not chemically engineered.
Synthetic is thought to cause leaks... This is partially true. Because of it's cleaning ability, and different additives, it can clean clots in seals like valve seals, and cause them to show proof of what damage there already was. There are also arguments that because of different additives in the newer design of the oil that they can have adverse effects on rubber seals. I have not seen good proof on that however.
Some thoughts on contamination control of engine oil.
Do not run engine for short periods of time. This can cause condensation inside the engine. Creating water contamination, and breaking the film strength of oil significantly. Try not to start vehicles, that are not going to warm up to an oil temp that will evaporate the water in the oil. This is even more important in humid, and cooler climates.
Make sure you have good filters on breathers. They can allow dirt entry into the system.
Practice common cleanliness. Don't take the new filter out of the box, until it is ready to be installed.
That's all I can say about oil for now. I don't want to get more involved. Thought it might be useful to the forum however.
11-09-2008, 08:10 AM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: gulfcoast mississsippi
Posts: 90
Very interesting What RatFink said. I did read about Syntec ( castrol ) not been a synthetic oil. about the Zinc in the oil Red line claims that it has a lot of zinc in their oils , they also claim you can mix the weights to make your own application. In the early days I used castrol 20/50 on my S30 then just plain 30w when I call red line about the oil they said to use 10/30w and I said on my tt turbo? they said yes . I told them that I live in the south and the summers are very hot, they said the wight has nothing to do with the heat.One thing I know, the more I know the less I know.
Royal purple also makes big claims, I do like their oil and you can buy it at some stores, Ams oil is good too, I remember when they came out I change the oil to Ams oil ( very expensive ) It idle so high I had to turn down the idle, latter I notice that I used more oil. Dilemas and questions
11-11-2008, 06:59 AM
#22
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 352
Mobile one filter and mobile one high-milage synth. And no, I dont change my oil every 3000 miles, thats stupid and a line of BS service shops sell to old ladies and ricers. Check your oil, is it dark? Yes = replace it, No = drive on.
Last edited by Comorat2x2; 11-12-2008 at 08:00 AM.
11-11-2008, 07:32 AM
#23
The Evil Twin
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Originally Posted by Ratfink
Honda builds great engines. They should not however be stuck into anything with 4 wheels and a place for more than two people to sit.
)
