please help a fellow zdriver
08-17-2008, 05:07 AM
#1
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Location: newyork
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please help a fellow zdriver
mike here, im 20 years old an have had plenty of cars in the last 7 years but have been waiten for the right z for the last ten years. i drive a 1990 z32 with 99 thousand miles. other then sound system rims an 2.5 clutch the car is bone stock. i have many many future mods id like to get into with hopefully a few suggestions tips and advice from those of you that have far more vast of knowelldge then myself. i would like to build the baddest na z32 possible . now i am a mechanic by trade but not a know it all like some and i no the z is new to mean would like some help. can some one who has or has had or kno the recipe such as exact parts brands sizes numbers codes or anything i can use in full detail to have an amazing z?, i also like to try to do mostof my work my self so i feel better about my car an myself. other then the usual headerback exhaust cold air intake what else can i throw in the mix to get her really moving?, and as far as exhaust goes please tell me the best bang for my buck from the headers to the the tip, and as far as the intake goes wen i buy a complete cold air kit since there is 2 pipes off the manifold is there 2 filters in the box area between the lights or a junction of somesort that holds one filter..........also my finall question the car is in excellent shape original owner some like 80 yyear old guy and wen i bought the car the exhaust was snapped in haf from rust wear an held up with dog food cans and hose clamps right after the cat on drivers side. how much horse power am i loosen or once a new exhaust is on do you think i will say holy **** what a diff in power an feel it ? sorry to chew ears off but i figured since im new and plan on stickin around for help from you smarter then me id make a fashionable long but to the point introduction... thanks to anyone who helps it means alot.
08-17-2008, 07:48 AM
#2
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new exhaust won't be an amazing difference. on that note, nothing will. the N/A doesn't have that much potential. you can spend more money then someone with a TT on it and they will beat the pants off you for less. there's a whole thread on it here called how to make the N/A faster. we talk about this a lot.
sorry to bust your bubble, but i thought about this too. i wanted to upgrade my N/A because it was all i could afford, then i realized that i could dump tons into it and not get that much benefit. i'm now planning a turbo swap or a new car. we'll see how college goes.
sorry to bust your bubble, but i thought about this too. i wanted to upgrade my N/A because it was all i could afford, then i realized that i could dump tons into it and not get that much benefit. i'm now planning a turbo swap or a new car. we'll see how college goes.
08-17-2008, 03:05 PM
#3
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idea
see i look on ebay or motor swap sites and i see vg30dett motors and 5spd trannys selling as a package for like 1500 shipped. i dont get how they go for so cheap and on another note. if i spend the 1500 for the motor an tranny how hard of a swap is it ? i dont need all the in detail technical stuff just bottom lione 1 through 10 an 10 is the hardest . also wut else do i need other then harness? i dunno i really always wanted to go tt but the time consupmtion of the swap is wat shunned me away but i guess *** the na build up i might as well just swap. sounds good. info would be nice
08-17-2008, 05:45 PM
#5
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proper spelling and punctuation is and paragraphing when making large posts like that otherwise the flow and mashed up goodness you create can be very difficult to follow and many will just give up on reading it and not answer. also your best bet is just sell the NA and buy a TT much easier and faster and logical.
08-17-2008, 07:35 PM
#6
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indeed it is. but if you are bonded to the car, i'll lay out the basics of what else you need for the swap. granted, i'm no pro on it, so you really need to go look it up. tt.net and this website both have good info on it.
you don't need that tranny. you can modify the N/A tanny a bit and it's the same. you need that engine, with all the intake and turbos and stuff, new exhaust, and biggest of all, you need the turbo ECU and wiring harness. you also should get a tt fuel pump. you will be strongly advised to get turbo wheels for the rear, as they are wider. you also will have a stiffer clutch on, seeing as it needs to handle 80HP more, so you will want to fit the clutch booster system on as well.
it's hardly worth doing all this if you don't upgrade a bit, so you will want a new ECU (performance of course. sam ash or some other brand), custom exhaust with nice manifolds and mufflers, pop charger (nice intake), upgraded turbos (about $3000....), and nice intercoolers (stillen. about $1000 i think). there is a bit more to it, but these are the basics. you could do it stock first and get out pretty cheap, then go back in later too. also, you cheap used engine may or may not handle these upgrades very well. after you do all this good stuff, you will really want a boost controller to be able to tune all this properly. as far as these upgrades, there is a lot of research you need to do there. it is all layed out somewhere.
in conclusion, snw is quite right. sell it and get a tt if you want to go fast
you don't need that tranny. you can modify the N/A tanny a bit and it's the same. you need that engine, with all the intake and turbos and stuff, new exhaust, and biggest of all, you need the turbo ECU and wiring harness. you also should get a tt fuel pump. you will be strongly advised to get turbo wheels for the rear, as they are wider. you also will have a stiffer clutch on, seeing as it needs to handle 80HP more, so you will want to fit the clutch booster system on as well.
it's hardly worth doing all this if you don't upgrade a bit, so you will want a new ECU (performance of course. sam ash or some other brand), custom exhaust with nice manifolds and mufflers, pop charger (nice intake), upgraded turbos (about $3000....), and nice intercoolers (stillen. about $1000 i think). there is a bit more to it, but these are the basics. you could do it stock first and get out pretty cheap, then go back in later too. also, you cheap used engine may or may not handle these upgrades very well. after you do all this good stuff, you will really want a boost controller to be able to tune all this properly. as far as these upgrades, there is a lot of research you need to do there. it is all layed out somewhere.
in conclusion, snw is quite right. sell it and get a tt if you want to go fast
Last edited by KasbeKZ; 08-17-2008 at 07:37 PM.
08-17-2008, 10:46 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 459
Welcome to the forums
You will find most people here are English teachers that also drive Z cars. Most of them are smart enough to figure out what you are trying to say but instead of answering your questions they will just tell you to search or use a spell checker.
If you are not going to do a TT swap and stick with N/A you will find the z32 engine lacking and expensive to get a lot of HP from. Best to swap in a 350 or corvette motor.
I'm not even going to touch the exhaust question. If you are a mechanic then you already know the difference between dog food cans and a real exhaust.
If you are not going to do a TT swap and stick with N/A you will find the z32 engine lacking and expensive to get a lot of HP from. Best to swap in a 350 or corvette motor.
I'm not even going to touch the exhaust question. If you are a mechanic then you already know the difference between dog food cans and a real exhaust.
08-18-2008, 12:46 AM
#9
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Location: newyork
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apology
sorry about my grammer and punctuation i am on my phone not a computer or laptop so it is not so easy. and as far as search functions i am not able to use all the sites functions on my phone. as far as the exhaust question only reason i asked was bc every thing i've driven b4 the z was hot rod with straight pipes i just wanted to know the how the na ran with clean exxhausts
08-18-2008, 06:47 PM
#13
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Roseville/Sacramento, CA
Posts: 265
Think Basics it's a 3.0L V6. Whats the most power You've seen a NA V6 make.
This is a quote from the following page http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic419768.htm
Suckin’ air: The Z32 NA
Actual upgrades for the NA are limited, without forced induction you’re pretty much stuck with whatever external upgrades you can do before you are looking at a complete engine rebuild for more power and probably a really big nitrous bottle. As listed in the basic upgrade section at the top, an intake, cat-back and ECU are all going to be on your list. The under drive pulley, flywheel upgrade and a set of test pipes will help here as well. Now what?
Tubular Headers: A set of stainless steel or coated steel headers can really free up your NA engine, to the point of making another 20hp. These can be installed while the engine is in the car however doing so will be the cause of much swearing. This can run you upwards of $600. That being said, you will see much smaller gains from these if you already have a full aftermarket exhaust. If you have a set of test pipes and a good cat back, your upgrade money is probably best spent on something else.
If you've done the headers, test pipes, and cat-back, your NA is probably going to be loud as a mother****er. Check your local noise ordnances.
Okay so that’s done, what else?
Nitrous: Obviously an option, the stock bottom end can withstand upwards of a 100hp shot of the cold juice. Only real problem here is that even "bolt on" kits usually require a certain amount of modification or even fabrication of fitment parts. This should probably be left to a shop if you aren't equipped and skilled enough for the task. Also, nitrous is illegal in some places, in extreme cases they'll impound your car if you have an armed system (read: bottle valve open and ready to go). And of course, when the bottle is empty it’s probably time to head home. As a side note: to run large shots of nitrous you will almost always need large bottles. Large bottles lose pressure quickly, reducing the effectiveness of your system as you continue to use it.
-With nitrous comes the need for more fuel. Easy enough, simply grab a set of stock Twin Turbo fuel injectors and you're in business, given you have the appropriate ECU to run them. Luckily enough, if you are getting into the nitrous stage of upgrading, you should have already invested in an aftermarket ECU, of which there are many already setup to run nitrous.
Okay we got our boost for off line or the dash to the finish, what can we do now. Well, not much. At this point you're really starting to look at having to rebuild and the engine to run bore/stroker kits with larger, higher compression pistons and of course you can add ever increasing amounts of nitrous to the plan. That costs a lot of money. And really, you're not going to get much for that money. A tricked out NA engine, absolutely built to the hilt with every trick in the book will probably make some where in the area of 300rwhp. The best I've seen on a NA VG with a stock bottom end was 228rwhp with just about every upgrade you could think and a good tune on an air/fuel controller. Of course you can add another 150 with nitrous but that’s temporary. And you are passing out of anything in the range that could be called "streetable".
-So about your NA…you probably shouldn’t focus on engine upgrades too much. Cat-back, intake filter, and maybe a UD pulley. After that you’re really looking at getting smaller and smaller gains for the money, time and effort. Suspension upgrades tend to provide better overall vehicular performance gains for the non-turbo crowd.
Plain and simple Not many V6's will throw you back in your seat and make you feel the need to check your underwear afterwards. I'm not discouraging you. If you want to there might be kits to stroke or bore out your Z (NA's get left out of the loop for mods for the most part). NOS could be an option for you but in the long run everything added up makes it less dependable and for our cars that is not a smart road to go down unless you have plenty of time and money.
I have a 65 Mustang, and had a 95 Integra both cars I've spent countless hours researching turbo kits for (the integra for more power, the mustang for something unique and more power) In the end It was smarter to buy a car that is already turbocharged. No headache, no messups, no parts being lost or broken in the process. Basic bolt on's wont cost you a fortune and will make your driving experience more fun, but for a man whose had many cars You should appreciate the fact that you have a somewhat rare car that is in sound condition.
GL with whatever the future hold for you and your Z keep us posted!
Tim
This is a quote from the following page http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic419768.htm
Suckin’ air: The Z32 NA
Actual upgrades for the NA are limited, without forced induction you’re pretty much stuck with whatever external upgrades you can do before you are looking at a complete engine rebuild for more power and probably a really big nitrous bottle. As listed in the basic upgrade section at the top, an intake, cat-back and ECU are all going to be on your list. The under drive pulley, flywheel upgrade and a set of test pipes will help here as well. Now what?
Tubular Headers: A set of stainless steel or coated steel headers can really free up your NA engine, to the point of making another 20hp. These can be installed while the engine is in the car however doing so will be the cause of much swearing. This can run you upwards of $600. That being said, you will see much smaller gains from these if you already have a full aftermarket exhaust. If you have a set of test pipes and a good cat back, your upgrade money is probably best spent on something else.
If you've done the headers, test pipes, and cat-back, your NA is probably going to be loud as a mother****er. Check your local noise ordnances.
Okay so that’s done, what else?
Nitrous: Obviously an option, the stock bottom end can withstand upwards of a 100hp shot of the cold juice. Only real problem here is that even "bolt on" kits usually require a certain amount of modification or even fabrication of fitment parts. This should probably be left to a shop if you aren't equipped and skilled enough for the task. Also, nitrous is illegal in some places, in extreme cases they'll impound your car if you have an armed system (read: bottle valve open and ready to go). And of course, when the bottle is empty it’s probably time to head home. As a side note: to run large shots of nitrous you will almost always need large bottles. Large bottles lose pressure quickly, reducing the effectiveness of your system as you continue to use it.
-With nitrous comes the need for more fuel. Easy enough, simply grab a set of stock Twin Turbo fuel injectors and you're in business, given you have the appropriate ECU to run them. Luckily enough, if you are getting into the nitrous stage of upgrading, you should have already invested in an aftermarket ECU, of which there are many already setup to run nitrous.
Okay we got our boost for off line or the dash to the finish, what can we do now. Well, not much. At this point you're really starting to look at having to rebuild and the engine to run bore/stroker kits with larger, higher compression pistons and of course you can add ever increasing amounts of nitrous to the plan. That costs a lot of money. And really, you're not going to get much for that money. A tricked out NA engine, absolutely built to the hilt with every trick in the book will probably make some where in the area of 300rwhp. The best I've seen on a NA VG with a stock bottom end was 228rwhp with just about every upgrade you could think and a good tune on an air/fuel controller. Of course you can add another 150 with nitrous but that’s temporary. And you are passing out of anything in the range that could be called "streetable".
-So about your NA…you probably shouldn’t focus on engine upgrades too much. Cat-back, intake filter, and maybe a UD pulley. After that you’re really looking at getting smaller and smaller gains for the money, time and effort. Suspension upgrades tend to provide better overall vehicular performance gains for the non-turbo crowd.
Plain and simple Not many V6's will throw you back in your seat and make you feel the need to check your underwear afterwards. I'm not discouraging you. If you want to there might be kits to stroke or bore out your Z (NA's get left out of the loop for mods for the most part). NOS could be an option for you but in the long run everything added up makes it less dependable and for our cars that is not a smart road to go down unless you have plenty of time and money.
I have a 65 Mustang, and had a 95 Integra both cars I've spent countless hours researching turbo kits for (the integra for more power, the mustang for something unique and more power) In the end It was smarter to buy a car that is already turbocharged. No headache, no messups, no parts being lost or broken in the process. Basic bolt on's wont cost you a fortune and will make your driving experience more fun, but for a man whose had many cars You should appreciate the fact that you have a somewhat rare car that is in sound condition.
GL with whatever the future hold for you and your Z keep us posted!
Tim
08-18-2008, 07:56 PM
#14
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Location: virginia
Posts: 4,617
obviously there is no such thing as an easy motor swap. when hoov said easy, he meant maybe easier then might have been expected.
nos still sucks. but good article, except for the encouragement of the use of nos.
nos still sucks. but good article, except for the encouragement of the use of nos.
08-18-2008, 08:30 PM
#15
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
nos is a name brand by holley. NO2 would be proper well not even cause the 2 is to big for the formula in chemistry that would mean something completely different but its the best i could do here. nitrous oxide though would fit well.
08-19-2008, 02:12 PM
#18
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: daly city
Posts: 57
as for exhaust, can't beat HKS hipower for the price, performance etc.. (in 2.5" range) but probably not for look.
as for NA-TT swap check it here http://www.mwsmotorsports.com/ttswap.htm
vids here
http://www.mwsmotorsports.com/mwstv.htm
as for NA-TT swap check it here http://www.mwsmotorsports.com/ttswap.htm
vids here
http://www.mwsmotorsports.com/mwstv.htm
Last edited by FLABZXTT; 08-20-2008 at 03:04 AM.
08-20-2008, 11:45 AM
#19
I purchased a motor swap from ebay for 1500 like you are probably looking at, the motor actually came out great but my mistake was i had a mechanic put it in. Mine was already tt so didnt need any mods and it costs more to put it in then buy it. Also the motordidnt come with the little things like fuel lines and so on. All those litttle things ADD up. Also jdm motors usually come with bad oil pans, mine did, i just used my old one not sure bout a n/a though. All these parts may swap over. You would have to ask the the other guys though, they know a lot more than i do.
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