I have a problem. I'm new to this site, and I was hoping maybe someone could help me out. I own a 91 300ZX NA and last night when I went to start it up it was dead. I figured I probably left the lights on so I gave it a jump. After the jump, the car started, but it soon started to die out, and it shut off. When I twisted the key again to started it was dead again. I gave it another jump, and when I started it I stayed with the foot on the gas to about 2000 rpm, hoping it would help charge the battery. I had it reved for about 4-5 minutes, and drove i around the block. As soon as I came around the block the Anti-lock brakes light came on, and the dashboard lights dimmed, and got darker. Even though Anti-lock has nothing to do with the normal breaking system I cheked the brake fluid, and it was fine. I put it in the garage, and this morning I went and attempted to start it up again, and it was dead. Has anyone had this problem? If yes, then please help me out. I've been told it might be my alternator, my battery, if so...why did the Anti-lock brake come one? Any help would be appretiated

Thanks, Abe

 

It's probably the alternator since the car won't keep running after you jump it. It likely quit working a few days ago, but the battery was able to stay alive for a few days. You should have both checked though.

 

Has anyone else had this problem? Any information will be greatly appretiated.

Thanks

 

Yeah, I've experienced your problem a number of times. Do what 91zxtt said, drive the car to a repair shop and have the alt tested. Or, take the alt out and take it to a parts store and have it tested.

But, it could also be as simple as bad battery cables too. It they're old, replace them first. Then check all of the connections for tightness and remove any corrosion.

You didn't mention that your "battery" warning light on your dash is lit up. This would be a definite sign that it's your alt.

 

The "battery" warning light never came on. I'm going to have the alternator tested on Sunday, but what exactly do you mean by the battery cables being replaced...replace the whole cable for both sides?

Thanks

 

Yep, Battery cables can even look o.k. on the outside but they break down under the insulation. The terminals at the battery can look o.k. but there'll be enough corrosion between them and the post to where there is not enough current flow. I've owned a bunch of cars and haven't seen battery cables last more than 8 years or so.

When I start having charging/electrical problems, the first thing I do is check and clean these connections. If the battery is nearing the end of it's life it gets replaced. If the cables are old they get replaced too. This is automatic. These parts are relatively cheap and are variables that should be eliminated when trying to diagnose problems.

Sample situation: People come to find they have a dead battery. They jump and charge it and it still doesn't hold a charge. They replace the battery with a new one. The thing is is that the old battery was o.k. but they had corrosion on their terminals (or bad cables) preventing a good connection. and when they put the new battery in and clean the old terminals they solve the original problem but paid for a new battery. I've never seen an auto repair place just say, "Oh, you just needed your battery terminals cleaned". It takes like 10 minutes.

And, I've posted this before........ One car I had, the "Charge" light came on while driving home from work one night. By the time I got home the lights were really dim and the car wasn't running very good (running off the battery and draining it fast). Later, as I started pulling the alt to get it tested and replaced, I noticed some corrosion inside the plastic wire connector. So I cleaned all of the connections, put it back together, fired it up, and ran that alt till I junked the car like four yrars later.

On your dash lights acting weird or inadvertantly lighting up. This is common when your voltage drops below something like 6-8 volts. Computers and sensors don't like voltage deviations.

I rambled again, sorry

 

Good ramble none the less!

 

I noticed that Canyon has been a bit on the wordy side this weekend. I bet that if we asked him what time it was; he'd build us a clock. Just kidding.

The advice on the battery cables is very accurate. If you have corrosion inside of the insulation, not only can you not see it, but it will prevent the alternator from charging properly, and it will also drain the battery as it sits. It will also rob the various electrical components of adequate power. It's like having a short in the system. Cheap and easy fix. If it doesn't work, then at least you know it's either your alternator or battery. I'm leaning towards alternator.

The ABS does have a link to your battery. The ABS is controlled by the ECU; which runs off of the battery, so it's not that unusual that your ABS light came on.

 

Corrosion wicks up the cable just like a kerosene lamp wick. Saw it many times on my trucks where you had a 10foot hot cable, you'd get bad spots in the cable. Electricity runs around the diameter of the cable or individual strands not actually thru it. Corrosion blocks the path and creates high resistance. If you should notice lumps under the insulation odds are your cable is toast. Used to hate those pinky finger sized cables on my pickup and would usually pull them at the first sign of a problem and go 1/0 cable.
My experience anyway.

 

Thanks very much guys. I was going to have the alternator tested, but I'm going to clean out the terminals tomorrow, and buy new cables. If that doesn't work then I guess it could only be the battery or the alternator. Thanks again, Abe

 

Don't jinx yourself. These are the most likely problems, but these cars tend to surprise you when you're least expecting it. Fix the cables, then focus on the alternator. I bet the battery's fine.

 

Same thing happened to me, I would say alt.