Building the Drift car
 

I know i will be facing alot of people who are against this idea..
But well this is my car, and i can do whatever i want with it.
I've been talking with Michael Scherr(MichaZ) to get some hints on drifting the Z

So things i will be buying are: -Koyo radiator
-Upgraded Clutch
-Selin translator
-Tein coilovers
-Hydraulic handbrake + new OEM ebrake cables.

The thing is i don't know where to get that hydraulic handbrake. Does anyone know where i could buy a good one ?
-Another thing is that low steering angle on the Z, i know michaZ fabricated his custom parts and increased alot his steering angle. I'm no mechanic to do that so if anyone has an idea on how to increase steering angle it would be appreciated.

Current mod list: -JWT pop charger
-Specialty Z ECU chip + boost jets running 15psi
-Specialty Z 2.5" Divorced Dps
-Custom Dp-back 2.5" exhaust
-Z1 Intake Hard Pipes
-Z1 hicas elimination bar
-300 Degree Brake Master Cylinder Brace
-SPL Bronze shifter bushings
_Jspec tails
-AIV,PRVR,Carbon Canister,-Cruise Control Deleted

lol @ multiple aspects of this thread.

http://tinyurl.com/3zvohtv

It seems you have some problem reading posts
i wanted to know if there is some recommended hydraulic handbrake which might be better in quality & fitment than others

So tell me, what do you plan on hooking this hydraulic handbrake up to? Also if you are going hydraulic handbrake, then why bother with the stock stuff?

I dont know actually. I"ll figure something up just like other guys with other cars do.
What do you mean by the stock stuff ? the ebrake cabels ? if that, i didnt know there are upgraded ones.

My main point is, why would you have two ebrakes? Secondly if you kept both you would need another set of brake calipers in the rear for it, as long as it's own brake system. Lastly you would also need a faster ratio rack or a steering quickener, as well as too shorten the steering arms on the front knuckles for a tighter turning radius.

You would also need to lower your rear roll centers, as well as fix the rear lower control arm angle to negate any bump steer and wheel hop issues.

Ontop of this, you would also need solid/poly bushings all around, adjustable upper control arms, adjustable tension control rods, beefier sway bar links. You would also need some chassis stiffening, being your car is a 2+2 and t-top.

Who said anything about 2 e-brakes ? i won't be using the stock one.

I won't be able to buy all those stuff at once... I dont think that those are things that i am obliged to have in order to drift the Z but i do agree that they are very useful but not necessary. So i will be sticking to the basic stuff for now which are the hydraulic handbrake and how to increase that low steering angle.
P.s: its a 2+0 t-top. Not the best for drift but well Michael Scherr does it pretty good.

whatever dude.

I don't think he understands that the hydraulic handbrake is incompatible with any of the stock hardware at all... namely, that the stock handbrake is mechanical and you can't just install a hydraulic handle and hook it up to the stock cables. lol

As I said, lol @ multiple aspects of this thread.

I've seen some hydraulic slaves that pull instead of push that are universal. So its not impossible lol Tho it is pointless.

He could easily just make a handle for the stock ebrake system and disconnect the locking mechanism on it and have something just as good if not better then a hydraulic ebrake.

As bluekitstune said there are hydraulic handbrakes with slaves that does the job with the stock cables that's what im looking for.
Hoov100:i dont want to tear a muscle everytime i pull the ebrake.. Hydraulic handbrakes are easier

If your ebrake cables are properly adjusted and you have a decent set of ebrake shoes, then it should be no more harder then a hydraulic ebrake. I would highly recommend trying it as it is before trying an actual build.

Why do you HIGHLY recommend that when the hydraulic handbrake costs around 100$, more practical,& makes the job easier.

I would have to disagree with you on that one. Keep in mind the weight of the Z32.

I didn't realize that spending $100 on something you didn't need was practical. You learn something new every day, I guess.

Regardless of the weight of the Z32, drift tires aren't supposed to grip well. Do you weigh 90lbs? No? Then you can pull a properly adjusted handle just fine.

And show me a hydraulic handbrake that can operate a cable-operated parking brake piston. If such a thing exists, I'd be interested to see how it works.

I imagine it would be set up like a slave cylinder for a clutch. You would have the slave cylinder pull the two ebrake cables where they connect.

Even then though, isn't it supposed to be less then 30 pounds of resistance for the stock ebrake to lock up the brakes?

Enough with the hydraulic handbrake.
What about the steering angle? anyway i can improve that ?
I've read somewhere that the NA steering rack has a higher steering angle than the TT. can anybody confirm that ?

Have you EVER heard of Google? For ****'s sake, I linked you to it earlier.

http://www.zcar.com/90-96_tech_discu..._887057.0.html

http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/NATTconversion.pdf

Both of those results were in the top 5 in a quick search, and both contain the answer you want. I'm not giving you the answer, so figure out that ctrl+f will open a search bar and look for relevant terms to your question.


The internet is like a library. You don't go to the library and shout your question hoping someone like me will give it to you; you go there to find the answer to your question. You got better for a while, and now you're going straight back downhill.

Thanks that was helpful.. I bet it didnt take you 1 minute to search it and post it.
U see the thing is sometimes a person knows better how to express the term he wants to search about on google and get back with better results.
Here's another question that i couldnt find while searching: how to differentiate the TT rack and the NA one so i can buy it locally/ i'm sure the local shop owner doesnt know the difference.

TT rack is faster. Doesn't really matter though, as a 2:1 steering quickener will give you just about a 1.5 turn lock to lock.

can u please tell me where i can buy that quickener ?

Judging by the link u posted i understand that the steering quickener is a universal part. am i right ?

Yep, you cut out a section of your steering shaft, weld two splined joints on it, the steering quickener in the middle and you weld/bolt a mount to hold it in place. They are awesome, but makes the steering just a little but heavier then stock.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2530083

Just be sure you are not buying some cheap made in china one, as if it breaks you lose control of your steering..

I have a bad feeling about this..