95 NA Engine Removal..
 

NooB here.

I have a '95 300 NA that has seen 200K Tough Miles.. Original Motor. It's been in the Family for about 5 Years, and Wondering when she would let go.

I think the Massive amounts of Oil Goo in the Radiator, is the Clue that we were waiting for. Still runs Fine.. but that Puking Oil is rather annoying :)

Having done all the Maintenance on Both Z's that graced the Family, I have learned that engine room is not something they gave too much of!..

I'm not Big Fan of shredding the Engine, Tranny, and all the Wiring, trying to get the Pieces out the Top.. Has anyone Dropped the Engine and Tranny Complete through the Bottom?.. if so, and good Pictures of the Dolly?..

I'm Tired of leaving Knuckle Meat on the Firewall when working on this thing, and it sure looks like it will come out nicely, if I Undo the Lower A Arm, Pull the Sway Bar, the Rack Knuckles, the Tranny Cross member.. Exhaust and a Few other 'Snags'.. Then lift the Body off the Power Train.. ( Not a Problem for Me )

This will also make a Good 'Engine Stand' for the next Stages of Repair.. Makes for good Pictures too..

Thoughts?..

Thanks in advance..

Cap

I'm pretty sure it's impossible to drop any engine through the bottom since that's kind of where it's fastened...

Welcome to ZDriver! :006:

I worked the Google-Machine for you...

http://diy.icydesigns.com/article/17.../#.TvANtXozKSo

http://forums.nicoclub.com/need-tips...s-t456232.html

https://www.zdriver.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29410

I suggest listening to the experts. :D And following the FSM.


You do know that is the proper procedure for many cars right? (i.e. F-Body Camaros).

Thanks for the Research NismoPick, and the Welcome..

This is Sorta what I had in Mind..
Attachment 18169

But I'd like to leave a little more of the Car Intact, and the Use of a Car Hoist and an Engine/Trans Dolly.. rather than a Floor Jack, and Jack Stands..

Everyone I've talked to, and all the Posts I've read, say pull it from the Top..

But reading this Post is Why I'm wanting to try from the Bottom..
http://diy.icydesigns.com/article/17.../#.TvANtXozKSo

Too Many Steps to do with the Engine in the Car!.. I'm wanting to get the Car off the Motor, so I can see and work on it.. Then shred it..

I'll keep looking..

Thanks for the Links..

Cap

Nope I had no idea! In fact I still can't quite comprehend how you could get the engine past its base mounts. Am I just thinking completely wrong? :103:

^^^ Google "FBody engine removal"...

http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html


And Cap... I'm sure it can be done through the bottom (just gotta weigh the pros & cons), hopefully an experienced Z32 member will chime in. :D

Done it both ways, go through the top.

I've been Churning the Pros and Cons of dropping the Motor out the Bottom on the 300..

I'm thinking this is More of a Project, than a 'Task'. If I just wanted the Motor Out.. I'd be out already.. Too many bad memories of laying on my Back, and Grease Smeared in my Hair..

Today I proceeded like a Bull in a China Shop, and got the Sled made to lay the Engine on, so I can pull the Car off the Top..

Thought of all the Different ways to hold the Motor in the Sled.. all had some drawbacks..

Here is the End Result..

Attachment 18154

The Length of all the Legs, put the Sled on the Ground, when the Lift is at the First set of Safety Clicks. This will give me room the Slide around under the Car, and get all the Final Bolts undone, to get the Weight on the Sled, then be able to stand next to the Car, and look for clearance Issues as I raise it off the Motor and trans..


Here are the Close ups of the Mounting Points..

The Front is just a Cradle to hold the Motor at the Front Bearing Area..
Attachment 18155


The Rear is just a Cradle that the Trans Rear will rest on..
Attachment 18156


The Sled is actually held up by the Exhaust Studs on the Manifolds..
Attachment 18157


I'm Wanting to fab up some Long Tube Headers, for the Reinstall of this Engine.. and with the Exhaust holding the Sled up.. this wont work with headers.. I'll Burn that Bridge as I get closer to it.. For now I'll be able to get this thing Out in one Piece.. and strip the heads of and Have a peek..


If the Day works out.. I'll try to get it out Tomorrow.. But Christmas and all.. it might not happen..

Cap

I's Out..
Attachment 18153

It's not the Fastest way to get a Motor Out. But I did not break anything!..

Allows for a Different View of all the Places that can not be seen.. and all the Space Relationships..

Now to Figure out my Next Step.. I think make a Clean Spot to work would be a good Start..

Here are all the Shots.. from all the angles..

http://s312.photobucket.com/albums/l...issan%20Shots/

Cap

Got the heads off Tonight.. The Motor is in really good shape..

Here is the Right Bank Piston Tops..
Attachment 18129

Here is the Right Bank Head..
Attachment 18130

The Cylinders have just a Slight 'Feel' to where the Rings have been Stopping.. Here is a Shot of a Typ Cylinder.. Still see the Hone Marks
Attachment 18131

I'll have to get the Pistons out, and do a measuring Job after Honing to check for Bore Clearance..

For 200 K Miles the Wear is not Much..

The Valves look good, and the Cams show NO signs of wear.. NO Sludges at all.. Except for that Nasty Peanut Butter Goo in the Water Passages.. Have not found the Smoking Gun on that one yet..

I'll get the Magnifying Lookers out and Inspect the Oil Passages in the Head Gasket.. Thinking it Might be leaking Here..
Attachment 18132


It's been running Mobil 1 Oil for the Last 100K Miles we have owned the Car.. Unknown what was in it before..

Still have to crack open the Bottom End.. and take a Peek..

Then comes the Washing..

Cap

Got out my Lookers, and did an inspection of the Oil Transfer Port in the Headgasket to the Head..

The Copper Sealing Ring is Cracked..

This is the Drivers Side..
http://i312.photobucket.com/albums/l...s/IMG_1295.jpg

And on the Pass Side, the Ring Lifted up, and Cracked away from the Gasket with NO Effort..
Attachment 18089

Think I found my Smoking Gun..

Now I can rest easier.. and Rebuild THIS Motor..

Cap

Hey Cap,

For me this is pretty amazing work! I just bought a Z and I'd love to go thru it with a fine tooth comb, but I don't have the knowledge. How long have you been working on cars?

nice work .. similar problem occured with my 300 . thats about the easiest way to pull a 300 motor . i removed 1 and refitted in a day and had it running 1990 NA. . as long as you have a hoist your set, remove the ecu/wiring through the firewall is about the trickiest part of the job . Nice Stand you have made :) i just used jack stands and pallet so i could forklift around . i have 2 lots of cross members etc .. so could still move the vehicle around if down for period of time .. about 3 hours to remove engine/trans assembly .. without breaking stuff. going back in a bit trickier. Not sure i would attempt to remove a 300 engine any other way ,

After much Crying/Whining and Procrastination, I was able to get the Motor apart and get the Pieces into the Parts Washer. I had a hard time getting the 'Peanut Butter Goo' off/Out of most of the Parts, and got them as clean as I could get. I then got them delivered to the Machine Shop.

Harry, my Head Guy, did a Double-check on the Bore Diameters on the Block. The Bores were over by a Few Tenths of Thou.( 0.0003 over on Two of the Holes ) So it needed to be Bored.. Well it had 200 K miles.. and that was kinda expected..

'We' were perplexed by the Oil Goo.. It took Harry about 2 Weeks to get the Goo out of the Heads and In the 'Dishwasher' to get them clean enough to work on and pressure Check..

Both Heads Were Cracked!.. I did not expect that.. I was Hoping for the Head Gasket Fractures.. So much for wishfull thinking..

Harry found two more heads from the Local Ex 'Z's Unlimited' guys.. and pressure checked them.. all good..

I'm due to Fetch the Parts in the Next few Days, then I'll Start Sizing the Crank/Rod Bearings and then do the Block Assembly.. The Block will be Assembly Clean, and wrapped in Plastic.. So I have to Erect a 'Paint Booth' to do the Block assembly in to keep things clean... at least till I can get the Pan on..

As for the Head (s).. Strange.. I'll investigate the Leak Spot some more. and then I'll take them to the Band saw and cut the things open and see EXACTLY where its broke and why..

Both Heads.. and they are still flat.. he checked them..

Oh well.. it's now to the Point of foreward Progress..

Cap