400 Hp mark
 

Hey guys am looking to modify my z till a 400hp mark ..
What's the best way?? any help is appreciated..
p.s exclude exhaust system..

TT or N/A? How much $$$ do you have? :D

Its a TT..
i"ll get money.. about 1K maximum..

lol ok. let's see.... you can get...

1. down pipes and an ECU
2. an ecu and an ebc
3. intercoolers
4. ext.....

none of those will get you to 400 hp. 400hp is pushing right on the edge of the potential of your stock turbos. it really takes some money to keep the intake air cool enough when pulling that much out of the stock turbos. even more money if you want to go above that and upgrade turbos. i'm no real pro at this though. zlover will be able to give you a better description of what's required for 400 hp, but i can at least tell you that you won't be getting more than maybe a 50 hp gain from $1k, and probably not that much. that still leaves you almost 50 away from your goal considering i assume you're talking 400 WHP

400bhp or 400rwhp?

400bhp is intake, exhaust, and ECU w/boost jets (you cannot do it without an exhaust), if your Z is healthy.

400rwhp will take an assload more.

Fine then instead of 400, 350.. Will a jwt ecu and single intake make it? P.s. I have omp cat-backs.. Im thinkin of k&n intake cause it is available in the lebanese market unlike jwt which i must order and pay 4 its price + shipment+ customs taxes+clearance.. I will end up paying literarily +half of the product's price

^ That's why back-to-back dynoing is useless for comparing parts. Between two successive runs on my red Z32TT, I did 403rwhp, then 416rwhp, with NOTHING changed. That's the effect that engine/oil/intake/turbo temp, etc etc etc can make on a dyno. The only way to effectively compare is with multiple dyno runs with each part, and comparing the averages via 2-sample T-test. But people aren't generally well-versed in statistical analysis and its necessity (which is fine - it's the reason I can charge so much for statistical consulting), so they make ridiculous conclusions like "my rotors increased my horsepower!"

Sam, the JWT Pop Charger dynoed 5-8rwhp on average across the board compared to its closest competitor (which was A'Pexi, not even K&N). If you want power, you need to quit cutting corners. That includes the exhaust, too. Get K&N if you want... but your horsepower goals are unrealistic for sub-standard parts.

thought it was for a good laugh

I didn't think you were seriously suggesting a hp increase with rotors, don't worry. But inevitably, some n00b who saw that writeup on here would think so.

i thought it was plausible until i saw the 13 hp claim. that's a bit out of the realm of what i will believe.

Reducing rotating mass (which is all changing rotors could do) might have a tiny impact on power transferred to the gound, but we're probably talking a fraction of a percent. When you consider the overall rotating mass of the drivetrain, compared to the reduction in mass with lighter rotors, it's quite insignificant. If more dynos were done, it'd become clear that there was no significant change in power output.

i wish there was an hp rating for the Z1 decal. I got two of them on 1/4 windows, id like to know what im pushing these days with those puppies.

^ LMFAO at Z1 selling a NEW filter and a filter recharge kit... to clean your brand new filter...

And you don't really need a gauge, especially an A-pillar gauge.

They just want your money. lol

JWT Pop Charger - $90
HKS Hi-Power - $590
ZTuner ECU - $225
NGK PFR7B-11 plugs - $50
= $955 + shipping

rotating mass increase respone is good

what? are you trying to say increasing rotating mass improves response?

no when u said less

stickers are ~5 hp each.

seriously, though.. that power package is confusing. Not that I believe you get 100hp from it, but doesn't it say in the description you need new injectors to go past 350hp?

oh i was reading a post earlier claiming each pound of rotational mass removed equals a 1hp gain. i'd love to see the function used to come up with that. i guess when I put in the aluminEEum drive shaft I got a 35hp increase. i should get new injectors just to be safe.

New injectors are needed for more than ~350rwhp. As a general rule of thumb, X cc/min works for X rwhp.

And the post is probably bullshit... 1 pound of rotational mass 8 inches away from the center is a LOT more than 1 pound of rotational mass 1 cm away from the center. There is no simple equation like that.

By the way, Stage III is 400bhp (a 100hp gain with intake, exhaust, and ECU with boost jets), that's no lie.

And I hope you're not confusing bhp with rwhp.

Can you guys tell me where I'm at on HP on my car since someone already started this thread. I'm guessing around 350-375.
Auto Twin Turbo
JWT ECU running 13psi, single pop charger and HKS exhaust with silencers, stock from cats on up.

I'm thinking if you want to go above 400 or maybe even hit 400 you need to consider getting an ecu that's configured for a dual pop charger and larger injectors, that way you don't have to have your ecu upgraded twice. I think 500 would be a nice tangible goal if I need to replace the turbos someday. I'd go with larger injectors, turbos, intercoolers and downpipes. But not unless my stock turbos go. The thing already pulls pretty good as it is.

~400bhp or ~330-350rwhp if your car is healthy (if you remove the silencers... come on, man, the HKS exhaust isn't that loud and it sounds great, and silencers add restriction). If the car is not healthy, can be substantially less.

Yeah, I didn't think they were that loud, maybe removing the silencers will help with that but I really like the sound of the specialty z, I could really go for that. The HKS isn't too bad, but I think there's more potential to be had. Oh, wish I had about three grand to drop into it right now. Trying to get my porsche sold.

In terms of performance:

Specialty Z 3" > HKS Hi-Power > all others

So if you're going to get Specialty Z, make sure it's the 3" system. Before Specialty Z offered a 3" exhaust, HKS Hi-Power reigned supreme in terms of performance.

That's an impressive amount of potential! Certainly evidence of how well the Z is built. $1,000 won't give a 100hp boost on most vehicles.