vibration at 60mph and up
#1
vibration at 60mph and up
hey whats up you guys know that i recently snaped my drive shaft, so now is
the real question, with the old shaft i had a vibration, it was the drive shaft. so i
changed the drive shaft with Z1 one piece driveshaft. now when the one piece
snaped i had a vibration that continued to get worse from 75 and up when i hit
135 mph it snaped ,Z1 said that only if it is under stress it would snap,but
would snap at the end where the welds are. well mine didnt snap at the weld it
snaped in the middle, now since then i put new shaft,trans,i got subfram
spacers new rotors tension rods, stuff that would cause a vibration. now that
my car is runing good i was crusing at 65 and i noticed the same vibration at 65
up to 80 but5 i didnt go any fast because i dont want that to happen again.
now what are some thing in hte rear end that could cause a drive shaft to snap?
what item in rear end that could cause a vibation that could poteionaly break
my driveshaft? what items are know to go bad to cause vibration? i no my wheel
bearing are good i jacked cvar up and shook all the tires, no movement i got
new rotors so theres no warped rotors,i have new driveshaft and trans so theres
no drivetran vibation , but the funny thing is that there still in a drive tran
vibation from what it sounds like(where its coming from) i noticed that when i
get wheel hop my shifter goes crazy i have new noltec motor mounts and trans
mount, this is agravating. what could this vibartion come from andwhy would it
cause a drive shaft to snap, from my experiance from the first shaft snaping
makes me feel its doing the same thing i dont want this to happen again so
please help and please dont make comment about my other threads bs
im looking for sapport not critsisum so please help thanks guys
the real question, with the old shaft i had a vibration, it was the drive shaft. so i
changed the drive shaft with Z1 one piece driveshaft. now when the one piece
snaped i had a vibration that continued to get worse from 75 and up when i hit
135 mph it snaped ,Z1 said that only if it is under stress it would snap,but
would snap at the end where the welds are. well mine didnt snap at the weld it
snaped in the middle, now since then i put new shaft,trans,i got subfram
spacers new rotors tension rods, stuff that would cause a vibration. now that
my car is runing good i was crusing at 65 and i noticed the same vibration at 65
up to 80 but5 i didnt go any fast because i dont want that to happen again.
now what are some thing in hte rear end that could cause a drive shaft to snap?
what item in rear end that could cause a vibation that could poteionaly break
my driveshaft? what items are know to go bad to cause vibration? i no my wheel
bearing are good i jacked cvar up and shook all the tires, no movement i got
new rotors so theres no warped rotors,i have new driveshaft and trans so theres
no drivetran vibation , but the funny thing is that there still in a drive tran
vibation from what it sounds like(where its coming from) i noticed that when i
get wheel hop my shifter goes crazy i have new noltec motor mounts and trans
mount, this is agravating. what could this vibartion come from andwhy would it
cause a drive shaft to snap, from my experiance from the first shaft snaping
makes me feel its doing the same thing i dont want this to happen again so
please help and please dont make comment about my other threads bs
im looking for sapport not critsisum so please help thanks guys
Last edited by Riz Z Speed; 12-17-2005 at 11:13 PM.
#5
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
Have it done again. Hell, do a full allignment. I've never seen problems with the rear ends or the axle shafts in these cars, so I don't think it's that.
#8
well when i gas the car it has a lot of play in drive tran when i hit the gas abd let go and hit it again u can feel there a second b4 the torque goes to the wheelsa like excessive play in rear end like its making the rear end twiste b4 the torque goes to the wheels any one experiance that its like makes a klunking noise when i tap the gas like something haS PLAY IN IT BUT I CANT FIGURE IT OUT
#11
so i jacked my car up and spun the wheel today, i sa that as i turn the wheel it took almost 4 inches of outer diamiter to get ti to engage the diff it has al ot of play like if i where turn the driveshaft a hlaf a turn it would take the hole half a turn b4 it would even turn the wheels so when i drive i downshift tehn gas ti it has that molment of play ,it sucks any one ever find a 1.5 way or 2 way LSD for N/A diff?
#13
Originally Posted by CanyonCarver
So maybe whatever tore up your driveshaft, tore up your differential too. Or your torn up differential helped destroy your driveshaft.
#14
Originally Posted by rayraydoet
well im puting new bushings in and solid subframe bushings im going to see if vibration goes away and hope the clunk noise goes away
#15
Originally Posted by emo236
if you have rear end clunk, you probably have a broken rear end mount.
#18
so today i went to buddys shop put it up on the lift added some mtl to my trans, and i asked him to take look at rear end, but because i could stand and look at rear end,so it was alot better to examine but he was looking said the diff bushing are realy bad (new that already) but i was looking my self and was playing with the final drive (the drive shafts going to the wheels) and was pushing on the flange where it connects to the diff, and happens to move and inch all round other side doesnt at all, so im asuming its the inner and outer race(bearing)in the diff so i think i solved (maybe) my rear end vibration and possibly the reson my drive shaft snaped, asuming from what i feel and my buddy says that the bearing could have locked up molmentarly and snaped the drive shaft, it sounds right and logical probly get a used diff put it in there, much work to take that diff apart and change all that, i dont got proper tools any way to be messing with that but hopfully new bushing and diff will solve my problems, any input , any one ever have this happen? i do have alot of miles but alot people say they have never seen a diff go , and on the other hand iv talked to some major companys that say they go all the time, that they roar when they on the way out so i ges time for new one
#19
Originally Posted by rayraydoet
I HAVE ONE PIECE SHAFT NO CARRIER BEARING I WISH IT WAS THAT EASY LOL
Sorry, I've just seen more than my share of similarly afflicted Z32's. Have you had the balance on the driveshaft checked? I also saw your post about the looseness in the driveshafts, you could be on to something there.
Rod.
#20
Originally Posted by RodMoyes
Dough!!! My bad!
Sorry, I've just seen more than my share of similarly afflicted Z32's. Have you had the balance on the driveshaft checked? I also saw your post about the looseness in the driveshafts, you could be on to something there.
Rod.
Sorry, I've just seen more than my share of similarly afflicted Z32's. Have you had the balance on the driveshaft checked? I also saw your post about the looseness in the driveshafts, you could be on to something there.
Rod.
#21
Originally Posted by RodMoyes
Dough!!! My bad!
Sorry, I've just seen more than my share of similarly afflicted Z32's. Have you had the balance on the driveshaft checked? I also saw your post about the looseness in the driveshafts, you could be on to something there.
Rod.
Sorry, I've just seen more than my share of similarly afflicted Z32's. Have you had the balance on the driveshaft checked? I also saw your post about the looseness in the driveshafts, you could be on to something there.
Rod.
Originally Posted by CanyonCarver
Over and above all of that, he twisted his new Z1 1-pc. d/s into 2 pieces. That's why I was speculating that this vibration problem and his previous d/s failure are related.
well ill let you know how it goes if that bad capnione flange mess up anything else u joints in final drives but i got diff coming probly by friday ill get it ill let you guys know if this solved my problem i hope! hey well atleast my hole drive tran is new i want tien flex damper coilover setup any opiouns on it , does it go to comfy ride not to stiff, any experinces? any real mayjor differnce besides one made fully out of aluminium the other is steel
#22
Well For the point where people have told you that differentials dont go. There wrong. I had a 92 chevy pickup and beleived that to until one day with out notice the driveshaft broke. So I used the fourwheel drive to get home and rewelded my driveshaft. Once replaced I went to drive it again, and after about 2 miles or so it made this horible noise and wouldnt move. I got out and looked at the rearend only to find that part of the spider gears were shoved through the cover by the main ring gear. The fluid inside had gotten water contamination and caused the shaft that held the spider gears in place to actually wear apart into 2 peices.
#23
Originally Posted by hellraZor
Well For the point where people have told you that differentials dont go. There wrong. I had a 92 chevy pickup and beleived that to until one day with out notice the driveshaft broke. So I used the fourwheel drive to get home and rewelded my driveshaft. Once replaced I went to drive it again, and after about 2 miles or so it made this horible noise and wouldnt move. I got out and looked at the rearend only to find that part of the spider gears were shoved through the cover by the main ring gear. The fluid inside had gotten water contamination and caused the shaft that held the spider gears in place to actually wear apart into 2 peices.
#25
A friend of mine has an infamous yellow 280Z with a 600HP Chevy 383 Stroker in it that is scary fast. After grenading 4 "Stout" chevy rear ends, he put the original Datsun rear end back in one day out of desperation. It's been in there ever since with no issues handling the gobs of power he throws at it... Including bottle launching (NOS) the car! That should tell you something about Japanese quality
Rod.
Rod.