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KasbeK's Shake and Brake Questions

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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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KasbeK's Shake and Brake Questions

Originally Posted by ZLover4Life


Air drawn from underneath the car, past the rotors, out.
it's a good idea, but i am finding that my rotors are still fairly prone to warpage. i'll be able to form a better idea of them once i get new ones though. all i know is, i got the rotors turned, and that car started shaking again a couple days later.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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I would almost bet your rotors aren't the problem unless you drive like a dick. I have never had rotors warp on me... and it isn't common on the Z32 (brake fade is, warping isn't).
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
I would almost bet your rotors aren't the problem unless you drive like a dick. I have never had rotors warp on me... and it isn't common on the Z32 (brake fade is, warping isn't).
i wish i could find what the actual problem is. i should be getting some suspension bushings done within a few weeks, so that might fix it up.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 07:32 AM
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Shaking isn't likely going to be bushings. Have the tires balanced.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 03:10 PM
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done. having tires changed and the front end aligned has never stopped the shaking. they were all balanced by a good shop. i've been told that since when i had the rotors turned, he only did the braking surface, and i still have rust and crap on the edges, then that may be the problem. doubtful in my eyes, but it's really the best thing i have to go with. btw, rotating the tires had no effect either. it shaked while braking with the old tires too.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 04:10 PM
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Get new rotors, don't cut the old ones. Technically, Z32 rotors aren't supposed to be cut the normal way - they require an on-car lathe (which most shops don't have). That could be having an impact.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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oh thanks. that's good to know. rotors are my next purchase of any size. i found a good looking set of 4 slotted rotors for $300. i know i know, buy cheap buy twice, but these seem to have a good rep.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 05:29 PM
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I wouldn't consider $300 to be cheap. I'd recommend against slotted though... you'd basically be buying them for the look, as performance gains are minimal at best.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 05:46 PM
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interesting. i didn't expect performance gains to be too good, but at least present. at any rate, if the slots don't hurt anything, i think i'll go with this set, as the price is agreeable with me, and they come with pads and stainless steel lines.

lol shizzle. i just checked the page again and either i got the wrong number in my head or the price changed. it says $450 now... maybe not those.

Last edited by KasbeKZ; Jan 24, 2009 at 05:49 PM.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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http://www.czp.us/Cart/description.p...9163.251.239.3

these are the ones i'm thinking of. thanks for all the advise here btw.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 06:38 PM
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This thread has been hijacked. If you want to keep talking brakes, start a thread. lol

And nice over-usage of commas.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
This thread has been hijacked. If you want to keep talking brakes, start a thread. lol

And nice over-usage of commas.
lol true and true. thanks again.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 07:55 AM
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ha ha you have to pay $50 shipping
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 08:35 AM
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lol no more talking about that! i'll prob start a thread on it in a few weeks. maybe not. but i do know that i'm not getting those rotors any more.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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here it is

my brake parts thread. what do we think of these rotors? i'm skeptical because the rears aren't vented. the stock ones are vented aren't they? i haven't seen them in a while. i've forgotten. anyway, i can get this set of 4 shipped for a total bill of right around $220-225. pretty good deal i think. i'm no brake expert, but it seems to me that downgrading to non-vented rears might cause some problems if any substancial braking ever occurs though. thoughts?

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...=&brand=Brembo

i'm looking at the ones at the top. i've been persuaded against any rotors with slots or cross-drills, so i'm not really up for spending that much money for the little bit of benefit on teh ones farther down the page.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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Rears are originally vented - I wouldn't recommend getting non-vented at all, but rears do less than 30% of your stopping so it might not be a problem. Why are you even replacing the rears, though? I'd bet they're still fine and not the cause of any of your problems...

I say just go with the Brembo replacements...
http://splparts.com/main4/parts/Z32/...es/default.htm
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 11:56 AM
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Moved unrelated posts from Fairlady Pics thread ( https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z32-forums-7/finally-my-fairlady-pics-27623/ ) and "here it is" thread.

Last edited by NismoPick; Jan 25, 2009 at 11:59 AM.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 01:54 PM
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thanks for the merge and thanks for the link, but the problem with it is that i have a 1990 N/A. the OE rotors for the front that they list are the wrong size (so they say). but, i agree with the idea to not replace the rears. i'm surprised i didn't think of that to begin with (though, maybe i'm not considering the regularity of the flaws in my thought processes lately...). so i'll start with just the fronts and see what happens.
Old Jan 27, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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Have you checked your tension rods? If the bushings are worn, it can cause front end vibration.
Old Jan 27, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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2nd... and good point. Good opportunity for a good upgrade, too.
Old Jan 27, 2009 | 09:00 PM
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i have thought about that, and thanks for the suggestion (i believe you may have even said that before in a previous thread, so sorry for making you say it again). the problem there is that i guess i don't rightly know how to check them. will a visual inspection suffice? i've done that, and they look pretty good i guess. not all rotten or anything.

a bit that i forgot to mention: as said, i got the rotors all turned. after having the fronts turned, the shake was gone for about 2-3 stops. then it was back in full effect.... i was a bit puzzled. the guy that turned them suggested a light brake in of 2 60-30 decelerations with moderate effort, which i did, and they felt good. i don't know what to make of all that.

all things considered, as it stands, tention rods are on my list, but after front rotors. i need to do all the front end bushings actually. i just rotated the tires to find some pretty bad wear on the inside of the left one. the rears and right front were just perfect though. even after a few good doughnuts.... did i say that out loud...?
Old Feb 20, 2009 | 06:46 AM
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KasbeKZ, where are you in VA. Bernie is in the Alexandria area and he could quickly point you in the right direction. Also you should fill out your profile so that folks can help you more quickly. The early '90 NA z32, has thinner rotors that were prone to warping, that's why they were changed to the thicker rotor of the TT across the board. You should consider changing to the later calipers and rotors when you do your breaks.
Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:04 AM
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that's a good idea. i'm a long way from alexandria. there is a decent guy way closer to me than that. are the 1990 rotors that are sold still thinner than they should be? because i do believe that these are very prone to warping. thicker calipers sound like a good idea.
Old Feb 20, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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Yes, the 1990 NA Z32 rotors are designed as stock replacements for the early 1990 rotors. If you want to get the thicker rotors you'll need to replace the rotors and calipers with the units designed for the TT and later model year NAs.
Old Feb 20, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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are you using after market wheels with a spacer? A poor quality spacer that isn't hub centric used properly with a hub centric ring in your wheel will cause vibrations as well.



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