Comorat2x2

I was actually wondering about those brackets...since I swapped my head unit my stock speakers just sound like absolute dogshit when trying to play a CD at a volume higher than "medium with the windows up"....and forget about anything that has moderate to high levels of bass in it. I'm fairly certain this can be rectified with some newer, quality speakers but the need for brackets has always been in question.

So basically these brackets fit right in the door/rear box and then any 5 1/2 or 6" fronts, 6" x 4" rears will fit right in?

I love hte idea of a box in teh rear with a good sub and amp but that's an expenditure for a later date.

thxone

If for whatever reason you have questions as to what fits your car, I.E. (Head unit, Speakers) then go HERE and put in your cars info. They are usually 99.98% right on as to what fits in cars...even in the 280zx's.

JL Audio Stealth Boxes are always a good choice for sound quality and for the most part space saving. Though sometimes no matter what you do, you will have to sacrifice "some" space in the quest for a better sounding car stereo. Remember that JL has designed these stealth boxes to get the most from very little and alot of engineering has gone into making them work. Quality does come at a high price...for a 1994 Ford Ranger my buddy paid almost $500 installed for a JL Stealth Box with a single 8w0 and it matched the carpet perfectly and when that original sub was still in the box it sounded great...for an 8" sub.

I think you will be happy with Infinity products. You should know that Infinity is best known for the quality of their higher end tweeters which they use in their home audio speakers and now to some degree use in their car audio line. The C.M.M.D. (Ceramic Metal Matrix Diaphragm) is a good choice if you are into sound quality and want to go with Infinity products, though they do cost more.

Different car audio companies excel at making at least one product in their line and most likely is how they got started in the business. Infinity has their Tweeters, Rockford had their Amps and Subs, Kicker had the famous C10 subs and also Amps, Soundstream had their amps, Zapco-Amps, Morel-Tweeters. I would say take a look at what style of music you listen to the most, what quality that music is (original recording, MP3, or whatever) and be honest with yourself on what you want your system to do and go from there. I don't mind mixing different brands of car audio products to get the sound I want, it's just my preference to do so. I know MTX makes great amps, but I think there mids and highs suck. Do some research and listen to as many different products as you can and remember, just because something sounds good in your buddy's ride, doesn't mean it will sound that way in your ride.

entropy31

your stock speakers sound like crap because you hooked directly to them. you need an adapter that lowers the level coming from the headunit. the stockers will fail soon without this. i hooked up my alpine to my stock speakers with the proper adapter, and they sound fine. not amazing, but enough range to satisfy me 'till i get the motivation to replace it all.

and i suggest 6.5s or 6.75s in the front, and 4x6 plates in the back. round speakers sound better than oblong.

theitalianflip

on the stock bose system, each speaker is amlified, do its really easy to do the amp bypass. It would sound better to do the amp bypass and replace all the spakers with aftermarket ones. Also, i think they have front conversion plates for the doors so you can fit 6 1/2 components.

entropy31

i believe all of what you just said has already been covered at least once in this thread.

ezramoore

THXOne: Thanks man! that was a very detailed response and exactly what I was looking for...

Comorat2x2

I figured it was something like that....when it would distort it totally sounded like I was trying to push 1000W through some K-Mart speakers rated at 15W. Makes me wonder now....when I ordered my head unit Crutchfield sent me some oddball amp looking thing with 4 channels that had an adjustable output setting for each channel, sounds like thats what should be in there.....also sounds like they didnt install it when I gave it to the shop to do so....

But this craptastic distortion is just with the factory speakers + after market head unit huh? Makes sense and easy to fix. Thanks bud.

I love crutchfield....lol....they allow me to be a cheap *** in the privacy of my own home.

entropy31

yeah, that adapter should have gone in and then been adjusted properly.

and i dont let shops do installs on my cars anymore. i had circuit city do an install on my old blazer way back when, and they cracked part of my dash, put the dash back together wrong, put the blinky alarm light where i told them not to, and grounded the headunit to the headlights so it would shut off whenever i used the lights. and i have seen shop installs in other peoples cars that look like hell too.

z-hag

ya know, guys, the original bose is an awesome set----if any of you feel like helping an old lady out, in getting rid of your stock "junker"--just please send them to me, here in granola land, so i can have something to do in my spare time???????my boaT COULD USE A STEREO SYSTEM, AND I HAVE AN ECLIPSE, AND A SANYO, BUT I THINK THERE IS A BETTER PLACE FOR THOSE----oops----and i know a REALLY good place for your old junker stok chit, mong.. .........please write soon, .......and, OMFG, STAY AWAY FROM TWEETERS----THEY FOULED THE DASH ON PIGGY. ........

ezramoore

I wouldn't spend money on a system without them personally

Comorat2x2

Yeah, I'm pretty paranoid about getting the install job from hell, but the place I went to is pretty damn good. They've got a 10 car bay in the rear of the shop and have a portfolio of some custom jobs they've done. Pretty high end stuff thats on par with the jobs you'd see on Pimp My Ride or the like.

After reading reviews from other Z owners that have swapped head units out it's seeming more likely that I just need to replace the speakers. The Bose system is seeming to be an "all or nothing" system when it comes to swapping out components.

That adapter should be right behind the head unit so when I get some time maybe I can just pull out the center plate and adjust it myself, if it's there at all. Need to anyways, I'm not getting **** for radio reception and I think maybe they misunderstood "See if you can unhook the power feed to the antenna motor" for "Don't hook up the antenna at all".

Ahh good times.