SAS= Solid Axel Swap
I am looking to put a Ford 8.8 Rear I have in my 84 300ZX Drag Car. I have a buddy at a 4X4 shop to cut the axel down to the right length. However I am having a hard time trying to figure out how to make it happen. I have seen many cars cut out the whole rear and Tube the back half, but I was thinking about using the rear control arms attached to the Solid axel and using coil overs in the strut mounts for the Suspension. Has anyone done this or have any info or Pics on this? I would greatly appreciate any info.

Thanks Josh

 

Stock crossmember will be in the way.Stock diff sits on top of crossmeber.On a solid axle car the diff moves with the suspension travel.

 

I've heard people talk about it, but never seen it done. Your best bet is to find a 5 link system and adapt that to your car.

 

I have seen people run tubing up into the frame runners and weld them in to put a 4 link under the earlier Z's. I was just trying to concider another route. I know the diff carrier will be in the way but it can be removed to gain clearance. What I 'm curious about is the movement of the rear control arms. If they move up and down in a straight movement it would work. However if they camber in and out it will not work, it will be put in a bind if welded to a straight axel. My thought is if they do stay parrallel I won't need to add any links or a Panard bar. I just have to use coilovers for the suspension. Thus making this a more abtainable swap.

 

Camber increases with squat.
The crossmember is still in the way.The trailing arms are attached to and in plain with the crossmember.
This is a major modifcation,if it's not done right it won't be worth doing.
How fast are you trying to go,10s 9s ?

 

I think you need to figure out what you're doing first. Maybe you should actually look at your car and see what's what and what's where. Then, once you're done doing that, you should think about how you're going to mount the axle to the car. What pieces you're going to need and such.

You aren't going to be able to mount a solid rear axle to the stock control arms. And the driveshaft would have to have run right through the rear crossmember anyway.

 

Well I see what you guys are talking about,SOOo it looks like I will be doing a 4link. I am working on the Powerglide conversion right now so I was looking into doing away with the Independent rear. I plan on being in the 10-11 Second range to start with, i am already in the high 12's with the BW 5speed. So with my rebuild and switching to an Auto with a trans brake and high Stall I should leave the Line alot quicker. I don't think the stock rearend and half shafts will stand up to the high stall drops. Thanks for the input guys.

 

probably not. I've heard of a few people snapping half shafts with slicks. Even seen one in person. Was not a pretty site.