bam54

my wifes parents have had this little red car in ther driveway for some time now.last year i asked what they intended to do with it and they said call the salvage. well being a car lover iwould have none of that.so i brought it home and just now started to get her moving again. when it was parked it needed a clutch but after putting a new battery in it there was no lights on the dash.i traced this back to the main fuse wire on the firewall. after twisting it back together i had lights.when you turn the key on the fuel pump runs for about 15 seconds and shuts off,when you start the car it comes up to idle at 900 very slowly for a few seconds then dies.then you have to try a few more times before it will try again.if you touch the gas it will die out quicker. every now and then it will try to rev but just dies right out. the ecm is holding several codes like crank angle,fuel temp,etc. i dropped the tank and pulled the pump but it will run with power to it. so i dont think its the problem. any help would be appriciated.

mukilteo4u

I have a 1987 300zx non turbo that is having the same problem. Here are some of the things I have done also. My z will run and keep running at low idle if I put carb cleaner or starter fluid down it's throat. It appears to be a problem I feel with the signal not getting to the fuel injectors. I have plenty of fuel pressure from the fuel filter to the injectors. I thought that it mingt be the control unit so I replaced it. Still no sucess. I am about ready to take it into the nissan dealer and bend over. Any thoughts out there?

bam54

well i pulled the codes from the eccs and it is holding 23 and 31, i adjusted the idle switch to show ohms between pins 18 and 25 until throttle opens,that is what the manuel says to do if you get a 23 code,it was dead till i adjusted it now it shows ohms till you touch the throttle.i unpluged the battery and i still get 23 and 31. iknow the air conditioner is bad so that should explain the 31 because with the switch on for it the 31 goes away.but the car still will still start and run if you turn the key all the way off and let it set then try it,it will come to idle for a few seconds and some time run for a little while and then die like it has run out of gas.if you touch the throttle it seems to bog out and die even quicker, now this is my question would the idle switch cause this problem or should i replace the eccs. even though it seems to have adjusted like the manuel says. the manuel says if it does not adjust to replace eccs.

mukilteo4u

I have done the same thing. It appears to be an item with the injectors not getting a signal. Mine instantly dies when I open the throttle also. I may get 3 or 5 seconds when I first turn it over once the fuel pump has come up to pressure.

djskiiz

i own a 86 turbo i had a problem like that what i had to do was check the distributer rotor and that was the problem also if you go to nissan the will change your fuel injectors for free call them up and the will set you up but make sure they connect the wiring harness up that just a suggestion good luck

bam54

i have had the recall on the injectors on this car seems to me that the ecm is out but just not for sure. will start and run idles good but will die shortly after.the idle switch is on the ecm as well as 31,the maf is not.i guess i will just have to start changing parts till get it.when you try to rev the car while it is idling it bogs out fast.getting gas and fire.put new plugs in to ngk.

MaxQ

I had the same problem with an 86 NA. I was told that my VIN didn't fall under the recall--by the dealer--and had to purchase and change out the injectors myself (3 were bad, plus the oxygen sensor). I got new injectors, dist cap and rotor, and oxy sensor from NOPI and it seems to have fixed the problem. BTW, the problem appeared gone after installing the injectors alone, but I noticed a performance improvement after the oxy sensor and cap/rotor install.

BigFatBoss

I am experiencing I believe to be the same problem and it seems infrequent. Hard to start but once started it's smooth. try to give it some gas and it bogs out fast and dies. Let it warm up and it seems to improve. However while driving I can be coasting up to a light or a stop... come to a full stop then give it gas then bogs and dies... if I get my fott out of quick enough it will idle smooth but can't give any gas. If it dies i have to let it sit for about 5 minutes and try to sytart her up again, a hard start at that to. I just don't want to be chasing this problem and would like to get right to the heart of it and fix it so I will be watching this posting hoping for a good answer... otherwise its to the dealer I go fro a screw job.

Z Car Barbie

It sounds like your 02 sensor to me ... however, here's some diagnostics you might want to perform first:

1. Test your oxygen (02) sensor (procedure works for a Z31 also).

2. Test your CHTS and replace if necessary.

3. Test your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

4. Test your ECU and clean the contacts.

bam54

well i believe i have pin pointed the problem,when you turn the key on the fuel pump will run for 5 seconds then the car will start but dies.the fuel pump is not kicking back on. is ther a way to wire arround the ecu to make fuel stay on. or could my problem be something else. i took the ecu apart and there is a burnt resistor on the board. i removed it but cant read the values on it,the board looks good no burns, is it savable or is it time to replace.when the car starts it idle's good for a few seconds then dies when it runs out of gas, you turn the key off and let the lights go out on the ecu and turn the key back on the fuel pump runs again for five seconds the car will start again and die. sounds pretty cut and dry the problem is in the ecu. any body have this problem before. i have read the past posts but still have not seen the same thing. :doh:

mnphysicist

You may have a few things going on. First replace the resistor. If you can post a photo, I'll get you a value for it, assuming our ECU's are similiar.

As far as the fuel pump shutting off, there are numerous things that could cause the ECU to determine the pump should be shut off. The fuel pump is controlled by the ECU and in some cases the fuel pump relay. Do not hard wire the fuel pump, except for short test sessions. Something bad could happen.

For testing, you could bypass the contacts on the fuel pump relay. By doing so the pump will be running at full output continuously. At least it might help you narrow down the problem. The ECU will scale back the fuel pump's output during specific situations when the engine temp is between 50 deg F and 194 deg F.

As far as code 23, are you measuring at the switch or at the ECU input. Its possible you have a wiring harness problem.

Good luck to you
Ron