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'84 2+2 bogging down while accelerating

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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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'84 2+2 bogging down while accelerating

I just bought an '84 N/A 2+2 5spd and it doesn't seem like it has any power in the lower RPMs. Pressing more on the gas just makes to go slower. When I rev it up to about 4000 it picks up. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor and it seemed to help it out quite a bit but it is still lacking power. I checked the computer and its giving me the code for the crank angle sensor. I've read that the timing belt (which was recently replaced) could also give me that code. Is the CAS really the problem or could it be something else giving me that code? I don't know much about these cars and I'm stumped as to what to do or what to look for.
Old Jan 2, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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Does it idle smoothly? Is it running on all cylinders? Have you checked that? I've seen a bad CAS do anything from keep it from starting completely, to making it run like crap. So yes, it's possible. It's an easy part to replace, and buying a used one is usually relatively safe if you're trying to save money. They don't fail all that often, in my experience. I think I've only seen one fail on my friend's Pathfinder, in my life. He got a used one and slapped it in and it cranked right up.
Old Jan 2, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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When you start it up it goes straight to 2000rpms then drops to 1000 and keeps moving between 1000 and 1500. I think that's the cold start doing that? But then it drops to 600rpms and it seems like it is vibrating a bit. It just doesn't sound right. Then again I don't know what it should sound like.

Last edited by ThunderboltZ28; Jan 2, 2010 at 11:27 AM.
Old Jan 4, 2010 | 05:32 PM
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when you changed to distributor, you may have thrown the timing off. As for the idle, it could could be the idle control valve. just use a big flat head screwdriver to adjust that.
Old Jan 5, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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Would bad timing give me a CAS code on the computer?
Old Jan 5, 2010 | 10:11 AM
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that i dont know, im throwing out ideas for the idle. could be related or not. good to check. adjusting a distrubutor takes like 2 min. then clear your codes and see if it comes back
Old Jan 5, 2010 | 10:23 AM
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To answer SloppyGoat's question I don't think it is running on all cylinders. It sounds like its misfiring. Could that be a result of bad timing?
Old Jan 6, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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No. That would be something else...no spark, fuel, or bad compression. You should get a pair of plug wire pliers and pull the wires one at a time and make sure you can hear each cylinder drop when you pull the wire. That's the easiest way to tell. If you pull one and nothing changes, that cyl is the culprit.
Old Jan 6, 2010 | 05:32 PM
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I tried taking it for a drive this morning. I let it warm up and when I started to go the car had nothing in it. I couldn't go faster than 2mph. Wouldn't rev up unless I dumped the clutch. There wasn't much sound from the exhaust. It was almost completely quite but you can tell it wasn't firing.
Old Jan 6, 2010 | 05:39 PM
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You may have more than one cylinder not firing, or something.
Old Jan 7, 2010 | 09:13 AM
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Could it be bad injectors? I had a full tank of gas and it is already gone in under 50 miles.
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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I doubt it, but you'll never know until you start troubleshooting it.
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:23 PM
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Adjusted the timing and plugged up a vacuum hose. Ran a lot better but still running rich and misfiring. Trying to find a way to test to see if one of my injectors is bad or if I'm not getting spark on one of the cylinders.
Old Jan 13, 2010 | 10:55 PM
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I told you the easiest way above. You can do the same thing with the injectors, but be careful because it's very easy to break the connectors if they're old and brittle.
Old Mar 31, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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So I've finally had a chance to work on it. I've gone through most of all the connections. I replaced the throttle positioning sensor and that got rid of the missing and it ran a bit better. At least for a little while then it goes back to bogging down and not even moving until it gets past 4k rpms.

It just seemed like it wasn't getting any air so I took off the air box and its running a lot better now. After it warms up it seems to have enough power to drive around. It still doesn't sound right though. And there has to be a reason why it bogs down when you put the air box back on. Thought it might be the MAF but the car runs worse if you unplug it and the little wire glows when you turn off the car.

I'm not sure what to do now.
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 03:24 AM
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Have you checked for vaccum leaks?

As you know, these are the four basics for dead cylinders, the rest just help it run smooth....
-fuel pressure?
-enough spark?
-i think you said you checked the injectors
-compression?

Last edited by z31rider; Apr 1, 2010 at 03:29 AM.
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