car audio
car audio
I'm about to buy some aftermarket speakers for my Z and i can't decide between which ones to get
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im looking at the 6. 5 4 ways for $59.95, would i need a seperate amp for them or can i just connect them to the normal speaker system, they are 250watt peak power.
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im looking at the 6. 5 4 ways for $59.95, would i need a seperate amp for them or can i just connect them to the normal speaker system, they are 250watt peak power.
Last edited by 91Zman; Sep 20, 2005 at 06:38 PM.
1. sony speakers=crap. get infinity or mb quart.
2. are you using the stock head unit, or aftermarket? if aftermarket, which one specifically.
3. peak power means ****. RMS is what you should be concerned with.
2. are you using the stock head unit, or aftermarket? if aftermarket, which one specifically.
3. peak power means ****. RMS is what you should be concerned with.
the sony xplod series 3-way speakers are excellent for low-budget, but if you want the best for a decent price, go with the infinity kappa series 6.5 They are 199 a pair but well worth it. I was at the car audio shop the other day and they had some boston acoustic 3-ways for 1000 dollars a pair with tweeters and individual crossovers for each speaker, they are the best out there but i wouldnt recommend buying any kind of speaker for that much. If you want a good mid-grade speaker go with the xplod or infinity referrence series, they both do great for the average setup.
Originally Posted by entropy31
1. sony speakers=crap. get infinity or mb quart.
Originally Posted by entropy31
2. are you using the stock head unit, or aftermarket? if aftermarket, which one specifically.
Originally Posted by entropy31
3. peak power means ****. RMS is what you should be concerned with.
Originally Posted by AZ-ZBum
That's quite a big jump there. I'd also like to throw out Boston Acoustics, Pioneer (decent low cost speakers), and Focal.
Originally Posted by AZ-ZBum
Kind of doesn't matter. Even the stock head unit will sound better with quality speakers.
Originally Posted by AZ-ZBum
RMS is typically 1/2 peak power. But you're kind of right. most important is how much minimum power do they need to sound decent. Your amp should match the speaker rating to get the most efficient use of the speakers.
Originally Posted by entropy31
true, all mbquart and most infinity products are definately not "budget" equipment, however, i have found the infinity reference series to be very affordable, and of high quality.
i was only asking to determine whether an amp would be reccomended, or if the head unit supplied adequate power.
true, i forgot minimum power. i tend to match RMS as best as possible, and therefore dont usually worry about minimum. btw 86zMan, for clarification, peak power is not a standardized value, speaker companys use peak power as a "wow" number for advertisement purpouses. speakers run constantly at peak power will distort and quickly fail. RMS is an industry standardized measurment of the most efficient constant power. the speakers are capable of short bursts up to peak power, but should not remain there for extended periods.
i was only asking to determine whether an amp would be reccomended, or if the head unit supplied adequate power.
true, i forgot minimum power. i tend to match RMS as best as possible, and therefore dont usually worry about minimum. btw 86zMan, for clarification, peak power is not a standardized value, speaker companys use peak power as a "wow" number for advertisement purpouses. speakers run constantly at peak power will distort and quickly fail. RMS is an industry standardized measurment of the most efficient constant power. the speakers are capable of short bursts up to peak power, but should not remain there for extended periods.
Originally Posted by entropy31
RMS is an industry standardized measurment of the most efficient constant power. the speakers are capable of short bursts up to peak power, but should not remain there for extended periods.
i.e. Pioneer, Sony, Alpine, etc all would use 14.4V while companies like Rockwood, Mobile Authority, etc would rate their amps at a 16V setting, then drop it to 12V for the distortion levels.
Gotta be careful who you use and what numbers you choose to believe.
sorry, your right. i forgot that not all manufacturers follow the same standard. CEA (consumer electronics appliance) compliance is the standard that the reputable manufacturers follow. if something is CEA compliant, the power handling numbers are accurate according to the most widely accepted standard, although i believe CEA mainly applies to amps.
and sony still sucks. pioneer is decent for the price, but i still say infinity is the way to go. the reference 6.5 2-ways are a little more, but great speakers.
and sony still sucks. pioneer is decent for the price, but i still say infinity is the way to go. the reference 6.5 2-ways are a little more, but great speakers.
Last edited by entropy31; Sep 21, 2005 at 04:43 PM.
I use polk audio speakers. They run at a pretty good price. 6.5 and 5.25 inch and they sound badass hooked up to my alpine amp. I'm running about 80 watts rms and they are plenty loud. Now I just need a new job so I can buy some audiobahn alum10n's.
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 129
From: I'm located in the more southern local... Jackson, MS.
I have a set of Sony Xplod 4ways in my doors, and some cheapo road lightning's in the back... the only thing about connecting them to the stock connection is that, if you're using an aftermarket head unit, (AZ-ZBUM's guide to aftermarket stereos was quite usefull, but I discovered that there was more to it than what he documented) you have to have it wired correctly, I found that I have three red wires, and three blue wires (left and right channels), I have an '86 non turbo, and the positive & negative of each set should be wired into the front outputs of the head unit, the third negative wire of each set, should be wired into the negative output of the rear speaker outputs on the head unit, not that there will be no positive connection going to the rear outputs. Okay... so yes, any aftermarket speakers will have a dramatic change in positive SQ. Being as I am in a way, an audiophile, I would personally go with a set of Alpine Type S' 6.5" componets in the doors, and a set of Alpine 6.5" Type R midrange drivers in the rear. The headunit's quality and power output will also have a dramatic effect on the SQ of the entire system. If you're looking to add and amplifier... your options are to completely re-wire the vehicles sound system, or wire it in sequence to the input/output at the headunit itself. I have a Dynex headunit (BestBuy's cheapo version of an Alpine unit) it's got the standard outputs (4 speakers, front and rear) and then two sets of RCA's, front and rear, along with one AUX input. It's a decent unit... there are much better units around for the price ($200 some odd dollars), but it's got a 100 set volume control, it measures in twos, so it would go 2,4,6,8, and so on. If you have the money, I would suggest either a Kenwood or an Alpine unit, with the Alpine componets. That's just my two cents, good luck to you.
JD
JD
I have a Dynex headunit (BestBuy's cheapo version of an Alpine unit)
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 129
From: I'm located in the more southern local... Jackson, MS.
Indeed, Jeremy... but it was in the car when I got it, and as of the moment, it functions for my purposes of needing a radio... it's better than stock, in that it plays MP3's, and doesn't skip all too often... It will soon be upgraded with a Kenwood Excelon unit (the 7" LCD that does not fold out, but rather is integrated into the entire system, tuner and all). I believe you once told me before that my unit was a piece of ****... or maybe it was someobody else.
JD
JD
i bought a kenwood deck and it worked great for a long time, but its already starting to give out after about a year and a half. It will load cds fine, but is having trouble ejecting them now, and i took such good care of it. Kenwood is an awesome choice for a deck, but my favorite will always be the JVC el kameleon. I bought kenwood 3-ways for the rear, and im using sony xplod 3-ways in the front. The kenwoods blow my sonys out of the water, they scream. For about 10 dollars more you can have the kenwoods, they are a better speaker all around.
Originally Posted by Velox ZX
AZ-ZBUM's guide to aftermarket stereos was quite usefull, but I discovered that there was more to it than what he documented. You have to have it wired correctly, I found that I have three red wires, and three blue wires (left and right channels), I have an '86 non turbo, and the positive & negative of each set should be wired into the front outputs of the head unit, the third negative wire of each set, should be wired into the negative output of the rear speaker outputs on the head unit, not that there will be no positive connection going to the rear outputs.
And to quote my page:
Originally Posted by az-zbum.com
Common Ground (SF, GL, SS models)
No new stereo (at least, none of the decent ones) can handle common ground applications. This means you need to run new wires for a pair of speakers (either front or rear). When you run new wires, if you've already cut the old plugs off, tape off the wires. You do not need to worry about the extra wire that appears to go no where. From the point of view of the stereo, it doesn't matter if you rewire the front or the rear.
No new stereo (at least, none of the decent ones) can handle common ground applications. This means you need to run new wires for a pair of speakers (either front or rear). When you run new wires, if you've already cut the old plugs off, tape off the wires. You do not need to worry about the extra wire that appears to go no where. From the point of view of the stereo, it doesn't matter if you rewire the front or the rear.
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. wish i could say the same about my 6 year old alpine v12 amp (spark fizzle pop)






