Ok, first off, a couple of weeks ago I went out to start my car and it wouldn't. It flooded while trying, I cleaned the plugs, and kept trying. Eventually it did start, but ran real crappy, then all the sudden, while gunning it, it cleared and ran great.

So today, I go get a new battery. Cars running great. Put the new battery in, and the same crap happens. Won't start, but acts like it wants to if I pump the gas, or keep it floored while trying. I've come inside after trying all I could think of (cleaning plugs off since they were wet AGAIN, cleaned the main ground, since it was dirty, etc..) I'm giving it some time to think about it, but may have to use my wife's van to go to work tonight if it won't start. Any ideas???

Thanks,

Carl

 

Check the connectors to the ignition module and coil. If those are loose or corroded it can cause the problem you described. The ignition module connector is tricky cause it's enclosed and you cant see if there is a problem.

Other than that, have you checked for spark?

 

Dont You Guys Remember This Same Thing, Just Not Long Ago On Our Buddy Aarons Ride, Check The Afm, Same Sort Of Symptoms!! Just A Thought

 

verify the fuel lines that goes in and out of the fuel pressure regulator. Check for small cracks

 

Yeah good point

 

Well, I did what I could this morning. I'm gonna see if Wildman can come over tomorrow for a bit and help me out. See, what I'm figuring is that the new battery I put in is more powerful than the one I had, but still listed for our cars. I know that sometimes when you introduce a newer, stronger power source on an older car with iffy wiring, it can cause something to "pop". I'm still trying to see how you can test an AFM, so if anyone knows that, let me know. I checked the connections around the steering column, and all looks ok, but it's like a bowl of noodles under there. The ignition I have is a used one that I bought locally after someone broke into my car and screwed up the last one. Not quite sure what to check there, although the connectors in the back on the module look clean.

Any other ideas are appreciated...

Carl

 

Well, I've got an AFM coming from Ebay for $29. Hopefully it will do the trick. I'll let you all know, even though this thread is pretty much dead...

 

29 Bucks is CHEAP! Did you even try rebuilding/cleaning up yours first?

Rod.

 

If you remember, Rod, I did the cleanup on it soon after J's post on it and mentioned that it worked great afterwards. I guess it was just time. It has actually given me a couple of signs of going out in the last month or two...

 

Damn, you shoulda mentioned you were in the market. I've got two laying around. One I know for sure is in perfect working condition. I'm saving all the spare parts from my NA to help out any fellow Zer's in time of need

 

I Think I Got Four Laying Around, The Turbo One Is In My Na Now (insert Smiley Here)

 

Hi Carl
I can confirm that all above suggestions might be a good fit to try and figure out your problem. Here are some details on the different checks when engine not firing...

The FSM says to eliminate problem areas as follows

1.Check for Improper ignition system:
Disconnect high tension cable from one spark plug and check for hot spark (dont hold it in bare hands obviously)

2. Check for Intake air leakage at following points:
PCV valve, dipstick seal, oil filler cap, blow by hoses and clamps
AFM hoses and clamps
Manifold gaskets

and Finaly...
3. Check for problems in the following circuits
a. Water temp. sensor
b. Cylinder head temperature sensor
c. Air flow meter Potentiometer
d. Cold start valve and thermotime switch
e. Start signal circuit


If engine is hard to start only when cold:
Improper cold start system circuit - check the circuit then check the cold start valve


If engine is hard to start only when hot:
Malfunctioning cold start valve and thermotime switch
.....To clean out excess fuel do the following steps
-Disconnect cold start valve
-Disconnect ignition coil trigger input leasd wire and ground it
-Crank engine a few times to clear out excess fuel
-Reconnect coil trigger input lead wire and try to start engine

....if still hard to start engine do the following
-Check water temp sensor, cylinder head temp sensor and air flow meter circuit
-Check fuel pressure and injector (clicking)
-Check exhaust gas sensor and circuit

If engine starts easily now then do the following
-Reconnect cold start valve
-Disconnect thermotime switch
-try to start engine

a. if engine hard to start, check cold start valve...and replace as necessary
b. if engine easily starts then check thermotime switch and replace as necessary



For Surging or Overflow situations the FSM suggests to check:
a. Check AFM for malfunction (does the AFM flap move without resistance etc)
b. Check Intake air leakage at...
-PCV Valve
-Dipstick and oil filler cap seals
-Manifold gaskets
-Air flow meter hoses
c. Check for Improper fuel pressure
d. Check for Improper idle CO% adjustment
e. Check for problem circuits as follows.....
-Throtle valve switch, idle contact and full throttle contact
-AFM potentiometer
-Control unit ground and power input
-Air temp sensor
-water temp sensor
-Cylinder head temp sensor
-Air regulator and fuel pump circuit
-Ignition coil trigger input circuit
- and injector circuit
f. Check all Relays associated to any of the above mentioned components

Hope this helps

 

I had the same problem. I wasn't getting enough air. I changed the air filter, cleaned off the plugs and let the block dry out (after flooding it). It fired right up and it's been running strong ever since.

 

Zed, that's awesome info, and should be made a sticky. Thanks....

 

That's another great one. It happened to my buddy yesterday. He was checking everything looking for the cause of the little stumble and couldn't find it. He took it for a drive and that line went from having a small unnoticed crack to spraying fuel out of the hood vent and onto the hood of the car... Nice huh? Anyway, he replaced the fuel line (Which I told him to do long before that ...) and the stumble was gone.

Rod.