Sending units..Ive searched but no posts are like this one.
So when i search the threads for "sending unit" i get some stuff but not a lot and no specific answer. Heres the situation. I now have my rail system hooked up and ready but when i turned the key i got nothing. So i posted, and received many replies, thanks you all, and as it turns out the fuel deliver system was worse than i thought. Were the fuel tanks lined with some kind of rubber or something? because i literally had tar or something like it in the inlet side of the pump and after i pulled it and let the fuel line dangle overnight i seriously had a puddle of tar under the car. So, after that i decided to drop the tank. not as hard as i thought but i wish some one would make a double deep well 14mm socket to make life easier. Got the tank dropped and needed to take a look inside. i pulled the sending unit and almost puked
. What had been under the fluid line was coated in tar and what was above the fuel line was completely rusted. Now that you have the back story heres my question. I have decided to go with a fuel cell, i want to strap it underneath where the old one went if possible, but who knows how well it will fit. the problem is the sending units that come with the cells, they all say GM style 90 ohm. I'm guessing that our sending units weren't even close to that style or ohmage. so where do i go from here? I know anythings is possible with enough $$$ but I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible, so ebay fuel cells with sending units are my only option.
wow, do you have any pics of the tar, i havent seen any in my fuel system, im probly very very lucky...
as for the fuel cell i have no idea, but there are those hardcore racers like snw pick and bleach that will know something.....
as for the fuel cell i have no idea, but there are those hardcore racers like snw pick and bleach that will know something.....
Just a guess here, but does Summit racing (.com) sell generic fuel gauges for a GM 90 sending unit? I bet they do.
Maybe not what you had in mind, but a separate fuel gauge is better than no gauge and would probably be the easiest to set up. Just run two thin wires up to it.
...and I'm not a hard core racer.
Maybe not what you had in mind, but a separate fuel gauge is better than no gauge and would probably be the easiest to set up. Just run two thin wires up to it.
...and I'm not a hard core racer.
I will post pics next week, my parents are staying with me for the week so i don't get to play. I had considered the fuel gauge for a GM, i had also considered no gauge and just use the trip odo.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/fuel-...m150255931634&
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-ga...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/fuel-...m150255931634&
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-ga...spagenameZWDVW
Last edited by dapper189; Jun 12, 2008 at 09:19 AM.
Originally Posted by duowing
Bleach is only interested in a 10 second car.
Did the car sit for a long period of time before you owned it?
Did the car sit for a long period of time before you owned it?
the tank prolly was coated at some point and letting it sit detached all the goo from the insid eand caused the problems. i found sometimes boiling it out doesnt work, these tanks have a plastic baffle in them that makes it hard to do properly, the plastic will melt and cause new headaches. fuel cell wont be that hard, just new mounting and fuel filler stuff. then just make sure you hook it up correctly for fuel injection. most are good for carbs, so look into it, you may need a different tank or sender unit.
If you're interested , I have a tank and sender unit for a 83 zx turbo, the car sat for 4 years, but the tank looks clean inside the gas is a little orange but there was only about a gallon in it when it was parked. I'm in California and I'd rather part the car out instead of letting it got to the crusher.
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