280ZX (S130) Forums Dedicated to 79-83 ZCars

Rear quarter panel replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 03:56 PM
  #1  
BlueKitsune's Avatar
Thread Starter
Intrawebz Wizard
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
From: Vernal, UT
Rear quarter panel replacement

Ok how do you go about replacing them? All that I can tell is I drill out the spot welds, then I think you cut below the rear quarter window, all the way back to the edge. Right? and if thats the case how to you install the new one and still have it look good w/e any filler?
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:22 PM
  #2  
260zturbo's Avatar
Stupid Hurricanes...
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,481
From: louisiana
unless your a body gawd, filler will be a must. plus you really cant go crazy on the welding because of the heat stress you will put on it. its not like your putting a lb of body filler on it. just a swipe or 2 if done proper.
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:46 PM
  #3  
NismoPick's Avatar
The Good Twin
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Unless you have a TON of auto body experience, i suggest not doing it... or otherwise don't care about time, how it looks, cost, or how hard it is. I did both quarter panels... and it wasn't fun. Shady also did his.

In a nut shell, remove all spot welds, and grind off the C pillar brazed flange just below the roof line. Aftermarket 2 seater Q panels can be had (if you can find them) for $200-$400. You have to go to Nissan for 2+2's at a price of $700-$800 each.





Just keepin it real.
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:46 PM
  #4  
BlueKitsune's Avatar
Thread Starter
Intrawebz Wizard
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
From: Vernal, UT
I figured as much... Ok so how do I fix that seam then? Brazing? tig? Or just a few tacks with a mig?

$700 - $800 a panel!? Good damn... Maybe I should just try to fix mine somehow...
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #5  
BlueKitsune's Avatar
Thread Starter
Intrawebz Wizard
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
From: Vernal, UT






Tahts all I need to fix, I got the car with that damage... course it was covered in like 2lbs of bondo
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:56 PM
  #6  
NismoPick's Avatar
The Good Twin
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Oh, you'll also need a pneumatic chisel to really break loose the welds even after drilling, and to reinstall the new panel you'll need to drill about 100 holes on the flanges. Make sure to use weld through primer on the underside. For the C pillar spot, you need to make a bottom butt plate to fit under the joint, and either spot weld it, grind it & body filler (more time consuming), or use a body panel adhesive & light filler (less time consuming).

EDIT... after seeing those pics, just fix that! I def wouldn't replace just for that...
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:59 PM
  #7  
BlueKitsune's Avatar
Thread Starter
Intrawebz Wizard
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
From: Vernal, UT
Well, I'm not sure how to go about fixing that to be honest. Theres the rust forming but its not too bad yet. and as for that poorly made seem I have no clue what to do. You cant get to that point from inside the car can you?
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #8  
NismoPick's Avatar
The Good Twin
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
There's roughly 1.2 million (slightly exaggerated) auto body tools, one or more for every need.

May I present to you... the stud gun:

http://www.bodyshopzone.com/archives...ud_welder.html





In use w/ a good set of body hammers... you can pull that area back into shape, braze the crack, body filler, prime, and paint! I make it sound so easy eh?

Last edited by NismoPick; Jun 17, 2009 at 05:39 PM.
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 05:40 PM
  #9  
BlueKitsune's Avatar
Thread Starter
Intrawebz Wizard
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
From: Vernal, UT
Ok that is cool. But Im not paying $300 for a tool I will use once. lol I guess I'll use a bolt, slide hammer. then tap it back flush with the metal. Before I go tearing apart the inner panel to see if I can get to that spot, can I actually get to it?
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 05:42 PM
  #10  
NismoPick's Avatar
The Good Twin
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Indeed... that works too. Just make sure you weld the bolt. A lot of old school shop manuals (like from the 60's 70's & 80's) say to just drill a hole, screw in a bolt, and pull. That works up until you actually put outward pressure on the bolt...
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 05:43 PM
  #11  
NismoPick's Avatar
The Good Twin
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Originally Posted by BlueKitsune
Before I go tearing apart the inner panel to see if I can get to that spot, can I actually get to it?
Not really. Look at my first quarter panel pic I posted... that's the inner panel.
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #12  
BlueKitsune's Avatar
Thread Starter
Intrawebz Wizard
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
From: Vernal, UT
Didnt think of welding it. Thanks for the heads up on that one. As for the panel, your right... Well, I can try to make it nice lol Its not like its going to be a show car Z
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
davidtroeng
Wanted (WTB / WTT)
2
Jul 13, 2015 12:41 PM
MO3IUSONE
300ZX (Z32) Appearance Exterior, Interior
3
Jan 14, 2009 06:15 PM
flightforlife07
280ZX (S130) Forums
3
Jan 22, 2006 01:30 PM
clmbdm
300ZX (Z31) Forums
1
Dec 6, 2002 09:32 AM
wds300zx
300ZX (Z31) Forums
2
Jun 15, 2002 03:12 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:45 PM.