New backup light switch created new problems
New backup light switch created new problems
Hello,
I just bought a 82 280zx 5spd as a project car. This is an attempt to relive my teenage years since my very first sports car was a 79 280zx way back in 1981.
I bought the car in Not running condition, and I've made very good progress so far. I noticed the back up light switch wires were torn from the switch, so I just picked up a new switch and installed it.
Now a new problem has come about. After starting the car, the low fuel light comes on and a buzzer is going off under the dash, even tho the gas gauge reads 3/4 full. This wasn't a problem until I installed the new backup light switch and connected the two wires.
Also, when I put the car in reverse with the engine running, the buzzing stops, the low fuel light is still lit, and the backup lights still don't work.
Any suggestions as to how in the world the backup light circuit is causing an issue with the low fuel light and the buzzer going off?
I guess I found out why the wires to the backup light switch were ripped off.
Thanks.
I just bought a 82 280zx 5spd as a project car. This is an attempt to relive my teenage years since my very first sports car was a 79 280zx way back in 1981.
I bought the car in Not running condition, and I've made very good progress so far. I noticed the back up light switch wires were torn from the switch, so I just picked up a new switch and installed it.
Now a new problem has come about. After starting the car, the low fuel light comes on and a buzzer is going off under the dash, even tho the gas gauge reads 3/4 full. This wasn't a problem until I installed the new backup light switch and connected the two wires.
Also, when I put the car in reverse with the engine running, the buzzing stops, the low fuel light is still lit, and the backup lights still don't work.
Any suggestions as to how in the world the backup light circuit is causing an issue with the low fuel light and the buzzer going off?
I guess I found out why the wires to the backup light switch were ripped off.
Thanks.
update
Main issues after installing a new reverse light switch.
A: Warning lights on dash. Low Fuel, Brake, and Door
B: Buzzer staying on after engine starts and trans is in any gear other than reverse.
C: Buzzer only silent while trans is in reverse, warning lights stay on.
I found a blown 10 amp fuse labeled "Hazard". Replacing the blown fuse will silent the buzzer and turns off the warning lights, but will blow instantly when I shift the trans into reverse.
There are two leads for the reverse light switch. I switched them with the same results. I also removed both reverse light bulbs and even unplugged both left and right rear light panels with the same dead short as soon as the trans is in reverse.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
A: Warning lights on dash. Low Fuel, Brake, and Door
B: Buzzer staying on after engine starts and trans is in any gear other than reverse.
C: Buzzer only silent while trans is in reverse, warning lights stay on.
I found a blown 10 amp fuse labeled "Hazard". Replacing the blown fuse will silent the buzzer and turns off the warning lights, but will blow instantly when I shift the trans into reverse.
There are two leads for the reverse light switch. I switched them with the same results. I also removed both reverse light bulbs and even unplugged both left and right rear light panels with the same dead short as soon as the trans is in reverse.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
fixed
After purchasing a $200 circuit tester, I finally got around to fixing the short in the reverse lights.
I started by removing the thick foam pad from the "trunk" area and inspecting the wiring harness for obvious shorts. Nothing noted.
I then replaced the blown 10amp fuse with a 30amp circuit breaker. (I'm NOT recommending this action) I would have used a smaller one if I had it.
Started the car. Dropped it into reverse. The lights worked. !
I never even pulled the new circuit tester out of it's case.
I'm guessing either moving the harness around free'd the short, or the higher amp fuse was enough to burn through what ever was causing the short.
Kinda bizarre problem.
( I just noted it's been exactly one year since I last posted on this. I'm doubtful anyone gives a flip, but in case someone has a the same or similar issue, maybe this is of some help. )
I started by removing the thick foam pad from the "trunk" area and inspecting the wiring harness for obvious shorts. Nothing noted.
I then replaced the blown 10amp fuse with a 30amp circuit breaker. (I'm NOT recommending this action) I would have used a smaller one if I had it.
Started the car. Dropped it into reverse. The lights worked. !
I never even pulled the new circuit tester out of it's case.
I'm guessing either moving the harness around free'd the short, or the higher amp fuse was enough to burn through what ever was causing the short.
Kinda bizarre problem.
( I just noted it's been exactly one year since I last posted on this. I'm doubtful anyone gives a flip, but in case someone has a the same or similar issue, maybe this is of some help. )
Last edited by CosmicZ; Apr 26, 2013 at 11:34 AM.
Bandaid
replacing the fuse with a larger one didn't fix anything, it just delayed something even worse. If you have a short or messed up wiring it still has the same problem, you are just letting it heat up at a new point before it causes another problem. If you don't have one, get an FSM, trace down each circuit you are having issues with and find the short asap. It's more like a ticking bomb now, not trying to rain on your parade, but what you have done is a bit risky. here's a link to a down loadable version , XenonS130 - S130 Reference
Good luck, I'm sure you will figure it out !
Good luck, I'm sure you will figure it out !
replacing the fuse with a larger one didn't fix anything, it just delayed something even worse. If you have a short or messed up wiring it still has the same problem, you are just letting it heat up at a new point before it causes another problem. If you don't have one, get an FSM, trace down each circuit you are having issues with and find the short asap. It's more like a ticking bomb now, not trying to rain on your parade, but what you have done is a bit risky. here's a link to a down loadable version , XenonS130 - S130 Reference
Good luck, I'm sure you will figure it out !
Good luck, I'm sure you will figure it out !
Thanks for the input, I appreciate the advice.
Cool
Appreciate you not getting offended, last thing I wanted to appear as if I was flaming you, just hate for you to come back to a car on fire(worst case I'm sure)
Cheers, have a good weekend
Cheers, have a good weekend
Your back up lights may not be getting any signal from your transmission that it's in reverse. Check your FSM elec diags for the location of the harness connector underneath the car at the transmission itself. On a Z31 it's on the right side of the tranny housing.
Check out your FSM page MT-3, for starters. There are four switches coming off the right side of your tranny. See 'em? The first or second from the front is the 'reverse lamp' switch. Sometimes the connector gets dirty, corroded or just gets disconnected. Make sure it's there and connected all the way through to the main harness - at least before you look elsewhere.
Check out your FSM page MT-3, for starters. There are four switches coming off the right side of your tranny. See 'em? The first or second from the front is the 'reverse lamp' switch. Sometimes the connector gets dirty, corroded or just gets disconnected. Make sure it's there and connected all the way through to the main harness - at least before you look elsewhere.
Last edited by zxguy1986; Jun 18, 2014 at 08:13 PM.
I'm taking the car in to the local shop so they can give it a once over (check the brakes, etc.). I bought a neutral safety switch for the auto transmission which is supposed to activate the reverse lights. I also read how to test the switch in the FSM. So if that is the problem I'll have them replace the switch while the car is on the hoist.
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