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finally started my rebuilt motor

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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 10:35 PM
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finally started my rebuilt motor

SO i went out on a whim today and finally decided to start my new motor. i cranked up oil pressure and made sure everything was hooked up and dumped some 91 octane in the tank. Cranked the car and it didn't start. I held the throttle to the floor and a sputter of life and than it died. Second time held the gas till the motor actually started and it ran and ran and ran on three cylinders... than after a few seconds it picked up a fourth and thats where i'm stuck. i know i have spark i think my injectors are bad but at this point i'm jsut excited that the car started and ran. oh ya and my fuel pump only works hardwired to the battery, can anyone post links to a thread where they solved the fuel pump problem. i know the pump worked when i took the motor out but now it doesn't ...
Old Jan 30, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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well... it could be a wire short.. corrosion.. or AFM problem... your 4 cylinder can be timing or fuel like you said.. check the compression?
Old Jan 31, 2007 | 05:57 AM
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I haven't checked anything yet i just thought hmm i'm out here i should see if it starts and when i ran on 4 i checked spark and than went and started working on my 289 so i didn't get very far ....
Old Jan 31, 2007 | 06:45 PM
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alright so i adjusted the timing and it runs on all six i'm so happy but it still has a rough idle and smokes a lot. enough to make your eyes start burning i know part of it is the paint curing and the assembly lube i had inside the cylinders. I found two coolant leaks so far, valves need to be readjusted since they got hot. I adjusted the idle. WHen i set the timing do i have to pull a vacuum advance or something to set the timing. Everything needs to be retorqued since i finally warmed it up. without the pipe its really annoying to listen to but hey at least she runs. Last thin to solve is the over abundance of inhooked vacuum lines, and why the fuel pump only runs hard wired to the battery...
Old Jan 31, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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like i said... if the afm has bad conection it wont turn on... bad fuse or shorted/broken wires... do the easy fix but in a hard wire a toggle switch and relay and your golden
Old Feb 23, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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My new used 235/60/14s that barely fit...



Just thought I'd throw up some pictures to show the progress of my car. At least its on the ground and off the jackstands. But tomorrow she goes back up and the four control arms come off and get new bushings....

Last edited by flightforlife07; Feb 23, 2007 at 10:18 PM.
Old Feb 24, 2007 | 07:23 AM
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Car's looking good man....keep up the good work.
Old Feb 24, 2007 | 12:17 PM
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Hey flight it all starts somewhere. And showing something, is better than nothing at all. Just keep at it, and you will get there bro'. Great job so far by the way. Keep us posted.
Old Feb 24, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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So today I got the two front control arms and bushings replaced Started replacing rear control arm bushings but i couldn't get the damn sleeves out. I put the hood on finally, and tested out the new front bushings and the car started running really hot so i shut it off and put it away. For some reason my injector fan doesn't work any ideas other than a bad fuse. tested fan and it works.
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 11:12 PM
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Ok so on top of getting a new idler arm and injector harness and injectors I'm considering ordering new struts. Should I replace the springs or will the stock ones be ok? Do the springs fatigue bad? I got a couple coolant leaks to fix and a fuel pump issue but other than that i pretty much have the car sorted out. I need a windshield and a cat and smog to get ready for msa. man I hope my car will be ready in time! This car is like having kids they jsut eat all your money!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsu...QQcmdZViewItem

Think this rail is any good?

Last edited by flightforlife07; Feb 25, 2007 at 11:41 PM.
Old Feb 26, 2007 | 01:03 PM
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Looks good to me, and nicely made. Also the barbed fittings is a plus. The price isn't too bad. I paid close to that for mine, and it is a JSK. That gauge will run you $25 from pallnet. And it is liquid filled, I didn't see where he mentioned if if came with the gauge or not.
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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so I oredered a bunch of the stuff I need to get my car ready butr is tehre a way to change the heater core hoses without completely tearing the dash out of the car cuz i really wanna do it without removing everything again. I'm getting a new idler arm, new injectors, injector pigtails, ball joints and tie rod ends, brakes probably next week and more too come soon!
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 02:48 PM
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That Injector Fan Sucks Delete It From The Engie Makes It Look Alot Nicer
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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ok than what would be the other reason that my car is running hot all of the sudden. it ran around normal the first few times the motor ran but the last time i started it it got hotter than it should wrong thermostat?
Old Mar 2, 2007 | 09:00 AM
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So oi worked on my car till about 11:30 last night. I got the dash heater hose changed, and damn is that a pain in the ***! I changed my upper hose a temperature sensor that was broken off, put a switch in my glove box for my fuel pump, changed my thermostat temp sensor plug. I fixed my ditributor vacuum leak and one other vacuum that i'm not sure what it does. It made a huge difference in the way the car starts. There is a vacuum missing off my charcol canister tho. Does anyone know where the little vacuum on the top of the charcol canister goes? one more question.. Where do i get the molding that goes in the windshield other than the dealer?

Last edited by flightforlife07; Mar 2, 2007 at 09:03 AM.
Old Mar 2, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by flightforlife07
So oi worked on my car till about 11:30 last night. I got the dash heater hose changed, and damn is that a pain in the ***! I changed my upper hose a temperature sensor that was broken off, put a switch in my glove box for my fuel pump, changed my thermostat temp sensor plug. I fixed my ditributor vacuum leak and one other vacuum that i'm not sure what it does. It made a huge difference in the way the car starts. There is a vacuum missing off my charcol canister tho. Does anyone know where the little vacuum on the top of the charcol canister goes? one more question.. Where do i get the molding that goes in the windshield other than the dealer?
They verry top one? The one that look like a smaller circular shape, and says Nissan on it? I believe that one goes to the vaccum advance. If not please specify more, and we can help you better. Maybe a pic or two would help.
Old Mar 2, 2007 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by WildmaN
They verry top one? The one that look like a smaller circular shape, and says Nissan on it? I believe that one goes to the vaccum advance. If not please specify more, and we can help you better. Maybe a pic or two would help.
Ya the top little one. Which spot is the vacuum advance can you possibly pot a picture of where the line runs?
Old Mar 3, 2007 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by flightforlife07
Ya the top little one. Which spot is the vacuum advance can you possibly pot a picture of where the line runs?
Yeah but you will have to wait until daylight. And I will shoot a pic for you. Unless somebody else beats me to it. I could also look in my manual, and see if there is a pic of it. The vaccum advance is at the dizzy, on the side of it. I am pretty sure that is where that vaccum line goes. The way mine is setup it goes into a t-fitting, and hard to explain. I will get back to you, unless somebody beats me to it.
Old Mar 3, 2007 | 08:12 AM
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ya my vacuum advance comes through a t than hooks up right past the dizzy so i dunno if my vacuums are just way ****ed up or what but i have no idea.
Old Mar 6, 2007 | 08:59 AM
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I got new injector wires yesterday, I didn't put them on yet but I was wondering if ya'll recommend crimping and shrink tubing the new connectors or should I solder and shrink tube them? Hopefull all my parts get here soon and I can get a jump on getting my car going... Oh and I finally got my court date in the mail for my ticket almost 3 1/2 months later and by than i'll be 18! My Birthday is on Friday I'm so excited!!!!
Old Mar 7, 2007 | 06:28 AM
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Solder and shrink tube works just fine. a crimp will cause a larger bulge. and crimps come into effect for high tension area's. the injector wires don't have any tension on them.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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how depressing my z gets put on hold again... this time its gonna sit for probably another year unless my parents help me finish it. I registered for school about 20 minutes ago @ about 10:30pm. So the student loans are all in my name YAY! now i owe the school $34000 so which means no more money for the Z!! Everyone give me your thoughts what do i do? it isn't drivable yet and i doubt its going to MSA! i'm gonna b very upset if i don't make it either!!!
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:04 PM
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sell drugs...... lots of drugs....
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
sell drugs...... lots of drugs....
Haha, John Delorean tried that to save his ***, didn't work out. On another note, you'll be in debt for along time to come with a student loan that big, hopefully your profession will get you lots of money to make the loan worth it. I'm liking the progress your Z is making, it'll probly end up a long time project, but it'll be a sweet car in the end.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 06:39 AM
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well if my injectors ever show up i can get it to run like a normal car and stop running rich. right no wi have one injector that wont close all the way so ts makin my car run like crap. hmm i'll have to find the pictures before so ya'll have something to compare it to. it didn't always look like a car. if I do good enough in the school a dealership could end up paying for my entire tuition but I wouldn't find that out till 2009. which means i'll still be around here but pretty sure progress on the z will slow way down...



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