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A few Small thing's

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Old Oct 13, 2005 | 01:03 PM
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A few Small thing's

I am messing with a few smaller thing's on my car till I can dig up resources to work on motor. First, Hatch pull lever, mine need's a folded pice of sand papper, or two ppl. It likes to fall back and lock. Is this becouse the hatch support's are bad. or is it something I can just tightin. Mirror's, when adjusting them, they like to stick and what not, any suggestion's on that is helpfull. Windows(power up,down) they like to go slow, and might be geting to not want to lift at all if I contune to work them like this, Maby a lil grease? also. CD player, how have you guys mounted your's in? Side blinker's, there not needed, but there so I want them to work. none of them work, but all have good bulbs. Front and rear bumper blinker's work, just not side ones. Is there a fuse or relay for power ant? cause mine don't do notin(yes i have connected the buttion to the OEM wire harness), but look's brand new. Small thing's like this is what I am doing till I can do more work on me motor.
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 02:15 PM
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Ok...I'm no Z expert, but I'll tell you a few things i know: The reason your hatch keeps falling down, worn out hatch supports (the shock absorber things), they just need to be replaced. Windows either have some resistance in the circuit (IE bad connection, corrossion, etc...), or the motors are wearing out. Greasy windows are never fun lol. Theres a post somewhere on here about installing a cd player. I'm not sure if there's a fuse. Somebody else will know.
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 02:40 PM
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ok... I'm no Z expert either but if you pop the hatch and it just relocks before you can go back there then you need to replace the little springs on the two bump stops on either side of the hatch. Those will hold it up just enough to stay open. As for mirrors, I'm not sure. Yours sound very bad. Maybe they'll overheat and catch on fire. I made a plate from aluminum and painted it black. It fills the entire area where the original tape deck was. See my gallery for a picture. The side markers don't blink. This is old school. Only front and rear turn signals back in the 80's. Push the button near the top of your radio when the radio is on. You should hear the motor in back try to move. It is very common for the power antenna motor to break loose of the wire that lifts it.
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 06:20 PM
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that bull disighn then, side light's that have bulbs. but don't blink or light up or nothin. what the hell they put bulbs in them then for. they got wire's and bulb' hell they must do somethin.. i have no clue bout them. and on the hatch, one(driver) side is stuck down, like that on me part's car too. I got somethin for the radio, a front face plate. But i was woundering if ya'll supported it in the back.
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 07:04 PM
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I think it was Bleach who said that the Z32 hatch lifts will work on a 280ZX if they are inverted, or turned around. Stronger lifts, so I hear...
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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Read Bleach's post agian... the side markers ARE NOT BLINKERS. They are just side markers and they should light up and stay lit when the headlights are on. If they don't, then there's a problem... probably a fuse. They still aren't going to blink though...ever. Now, hatch supports... not the issue if when you raise the hatch, and it stays up... the hatch struts are good. If you pull the release handle and the hatch re-locks before you can raise it, then it's the springs under the little rubber bump stops inside the hatch. They are spring loaded to slightly lift the hatch away from the lock mechanism when you pull the release. You may be able to just adjust them, but I'd look into new springs. CD player... if you have a good mounting kit, you won't need extra support for the unit. Windows going slow... how slow? They are all fairly slow compared to newer cars. They are especially slow if the car isn't running because they take a crapload of juice to work. If they go really slow when the car is running, but seem otherwise smooth in operation, you either have a weak battery, a weak alternator, or a loose alternator belt. Side Mirrors... If they are clicking, the motors are working, sounds like they are just stuck. My passenger side used to do that. Take them apart and clean them up and they should be okay. Also, if someone has tried to "Manually adjust" them... they may have just broken them free from the little gear chingas that actuates them. Either way... they should be easily fixable. Anything else?

Rod.
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 09:23 PM
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what he meant is that the lights don't blink with the blinkers, but they should light up when you turn on the headlights. of course if you felt like it it wouldn't be hard to wire them to blink with the other turn signals

need more clarification on what you're talking about with the hatch, sounds like you simply need to get some new struts because your old ones are worn out




Edit: damn, Rod beat me to it
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 09:27 PM
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Rod=

007=

Rod.
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 08:41 AM
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ok, So i got the hatch workin again. My driver side spring was jamed down, and same on my part's car. So i snatched pass side spring, threw her on there and good to go. I am wireing the side light's into my blinker's till they get shaved. my driver door lock on inside likes to jam and not unlock. So I am takin the one off part's car. It work's nice. Also, the stock air intake box on a 83 is big and ugly. I plan on puting cold air on when I rebuild. I was woundering if the more Low profile (3 wing nut) air box on a 80 280 would work, and not restrict my air flow? I like them boxes better. I know them stock boxes ain't great and do resrtict air. just wanting to know if the 80 box would work same as 83 box

Last edited by FubarI33t; Oct 15, 2005 at 08:46 AM.
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 01:33 PM
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I think they are interchangeable but you may also have to swap the plastic piping from one to the other to match the inlet size and shape.
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 01:47 PM
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thanks IWW. Today for no reasion at all I took the kick(plastci) pannel away from the ECU. I found something comeing out of the ECU not connected to anything. I am afraid it might be ECU power. but no clue. It's a two prong connection with Yeller/red stripe. and black. I have looked in my book and don't see these two wire's.

Last edited by FubarI33t; Oct 15, 2005 at 01:49 PM.
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 01:50 PM
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That might explain the 'Won't Start' part of your signature. But, before you go plugging it into a power source, check to make sure it's actually the power wire.

I'll take a look at my FSM when I get home and see what it says that wire is.
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 01:52 PM
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That's what I thought. Cause I noticed on my 2+0 ECU when I took it out that it has a green Led light on bottom. And I looked at mine during night, and did not see the light on.
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 02:08 PM
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I will be going offline one day soon. Don't know when but soon, due to computer issues.
I should be back up and running right when I get a new hdd. This one is going out, could go out tonight, or in a month, Till then I will post here till she goes. Blaaa. she is a good computer too.
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by FubarI33t
the stock air intake box on a 83 is big and ugly. I plan on puting cold air on when I rebuild. I was woundering if the more Low profile (3 wing nut) air box on a 80 280 would work, and not restrict my air flow? I like them boxes better. I know them stock boxes ain't great and do resrtict air. just wanting to know if the 80 box would work same as 83 box
I wasn't aware that the '80 air box was smaller... Mine only has two wingnuts and is the same as my friends '79... also pretty sure that the 79-83 N/A's all use the same part number for the air filter. Are you sure you aren't maybe talking about an older Z like a '78?

Rod.

{EDIT} Looks like up to 06/80 and from 06/80 have differnt part numbers... mine is 10/79... Interesting.

Last edited by RodMoyes; Oct 15, 2005 at 04:48 PM.
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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tag on door say's 80.. 3/80 to be more exact
Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:14 AM
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I have been really lookin hard at my book. And it says nothing on where these to wires go. Yeller/red stripe and a black wire coming from the ECU port
Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:38 AM
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Which book do you have? The Haynes is notoriously bad about misleading wiring diagrams.
Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:50 AM
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Chilton, made by haynes. It's no good. but better then nothin i guess
Old Oct 17, 2005 | 01:27 PM
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Here is what I found..
Attached Thumbnails A few Small thing's-mvc-833s.jpg   A few Small thing's-mvc-834s.jpg  
Old Oct 18, 2005 | 10:17 AM
  #21  
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how do them needles come off the guages. I have been pullin, and I don't want to break them eather.
Old Oct 18, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FubarI33t
how do them needles come off the guages. I have been pullin, and I don't want to break them eather.
Yeah I broke mine so I would be no help there
Old Oct 18, 2005 | 11:13 AM
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The best thing I've found, is to use a pair of small needle nose pliers. The only thing that stick's out through the speedometer is the small needle sized post. The brass base of the needle comes out with it.

You take the small needle nose pliers and slip them under the needle and the brass base and pry up on the brass base making sure not to make any contact with the plastic part of the needle itself.
Old Oct 19, 2005 | 09:14 AM
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For any of you(has not shaved yet) that want to rewire those side light's to blinker's. It's easy. I did mine in an hour. They work great.
Old Oct 22, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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Well guy's Tommarrow I got a "Real" mechanic comeing to look at my car free of charge. Look's like my sis finaly dated the right guy. Maby I might have a good chance of geting my Z to fire up, or at least show some sighn's of life in that ol motor. Wish me luck on her.



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