Exhaust Manifold
 

Ok... Time to prep the car for the California Smog Nazis.

1.) Check the timing.

2.) Fix exhaust leak... The last bolt that holds the manifold to the block has mysteriously disappeared. You know, the one you can actually see closest to the firewall. I can't seem to find any engine pics showing that location to see if it's actually a bolt or a stud with a nut. I'm hoping that it's a bolt, but knowing my luck...it's not. If it is in fact a bolt, does anyone know the specs of said bolt? I have a ton of 'em in my garage, but nothing seems to grab any threads. I'm not really in the mood to remove the intake just so I can drill and tap the damn thing...

It's a stud, and the most common to break.

It should be a stud and nut. The engine lift bracket goes there, too.

Great... :076:

i just noticed that stud is missing on my car to.

Yup... common problem on the L28. Take a mirror and flashlight and take a peek. Not very fun to drill out with the head still in the car.

If its broken with some stud sticking out weld a nut to it and remove quickly while hot. I think it's an m8 1.25. It's been a while

Yeah...nothing sticking out. Trying a "ghetto fix" to see how it holds. Details later. Heh, heh....

Well... It held long enough to get a smog check done. I may have to try again.

I used gasket seal over the gap... Lasted for about 10 miles on the highway before I heard the "tick, tick, tick" from the leak.

There has to be an easier way than drilling out the old stud...

Its actully your gasket! I'm running a new gasket with 3 snapped studs all over the intake I just said hell with it. . . . . No leaks been 8000 miles so far. . . . Jack the car up get the trusty 12 mm socket. . . . The intake secret is get the car high all 4 tires on cinder blocks you lay under use a long extension and have a friend do the twisting and guide stud to stud. . . . Honestly a 45 min job you can fix that bolt but the gasket is ripped and no matter how tight you get it its not going to do a dam. . . . Gasket at napa 26.00 3 day order I've done it a few times. . . . Loosen the exaust mounts all the way to the back bumper don't. Try to remove the: MANIFOLD COLLECTOR BOLTS!! They break every time! Easy fix other wise you will be back here a few more times before you get the notion to replace the gasket :)

is there a thorough guide on doing this anywhere? (pictures?) I am afraid I may have a small exhaust leak coming from the manifold.

Yup yup! https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/how-do-your-intake-exhaust-gasket-18779/

It's not really hard, just time consuming. If you have a pnuematic ratchet, extensions, and a swivel adapter, it's cake.

Good thing I have access to all of these tools :biggrin:

Thanks!

Just don't try to remove the down pipe from the manifold . . . . . .They will break off into the manifold! Also a newby issue I had haveing problems getting the intake bolts out take the valve cover off much easier to get to =) don't mess with the fuel rail it can be a true bastard to get back on!

A ratchet wrench is the best tool for most of the bolts. Or the long extension with swivel. I don't remove the valve cover cause then you can drop stuff down the timing chain hole or get dirt in the engine

True that's why when doing a mid level repair like this I prep the car degreaseing the engine clean and inspect all electrical connections and keep a small coffee can for all bolts. . . . This is also a good time to replace belts and inspect water pump and pulleys.. . The ratchet wrench does wonders but you have problems starting the bolts in. Then the last bolt on the left by the thermostat housing seems to be the worst. I always make a weekend to make a repair and also to inspect the car front to rear. Pushing a 32 year old tin can up over 90 mph well you got to know what's going on with your toy. ;)

Oh has anybody made a first time owner check sheet ? I urge the safety As everyone knows these are fun cars and myself I push the limit of the car 6500 rpm shifts and a lot of 5th to 3rd downshifts :) But a old half shaft ? Had one explode at 70 mph on the highway throwing bits all over the road and leaveing a hell of a dent in the fuel tank. . . . Or my red zx where the rear subframe wanted to leave the body ;) lotta things you gotta look for before going for a hell ride. My location if you do find a running z its most likely a barn find. Ah just throwing it out there ;)

... good excuse to swap those half shafts for the turbo CV style....

I've got the notion to go under there and throw in a 6-2-1 header with a PCV (I'm tired and could have the part wrong...) port, with a mandrel bent 2.5" ending with an 18" glass-pack.

Wait, what was the question?

Oh, yeah... Fixing the leak. So, since this a part of the engine I've never seen before (and I've had this car about 14 years) how does one tell the difference from the Collector bolts and the actual Manifold bolts? Or, is one bolts and the other nuts? (Hell...I'm a little nuts right now.)

Can you actually get to everything with the intake still on? I know the heat shield probably has to come off...

Ok, to the FSM I go! Haynes manual wants me to remove the intake. :087:

Collector and manifold share the same studs and nuts when replacing. So get 3 extra and replace the whole set.

Yeah just get a brand new set of intake and exhaust bolts. And spend a day, and get that broken bolt out. I have drilled one out in the past. And I didn't have to remove my cylinder head to do so. It was tricky, but managed to get it out with help from someone.

Getting a header is a good idea. And will be better in the long run. I'm sorry, but it would be a lot easier to remove the intake manifold and do it right. You will be glad you did man. Trust me. ;)

I think I found a good shop here in Alameda that will help me out. I need to get the front suspension done plus the gasket. I just don't have the time or space anymore to get this stuff done, not to mention another car to drive while I'm doing the project. I told the guy that I have all the parts and he said that it was not a problem at all.

Awesome man, good luck.:023:

If any of you haven't yet, sears sells a nice three piece spiral screw extractor set with the correct size drill bits and a little carry case for less then $18. or for about $400 NAPA sells a huge tap and die set with everything from 8-24mm and 1/8-1" as well as your basic pipe taps.

Only buy the reverse-helical screw kind if you are a masochist or suicidal. :D