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engine ticking noise

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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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ok thanks
Old Jan 8, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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ok thanks
Old Jan 13, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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is there an easy way to give the injectors a good cleaning without haveing to take a bunch of stuff apart.
Old Jan 13, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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Seafoam
Old Jan 13, 2009 | 08:37 PM
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i allready put a 1/3 of it when i ran it through my engine should i put the hole bottle in this time.

but i did it a few months ago
Old Jan 13, 2009 | 08:40 PM
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And you are sure the injectors are ticking "louder" than before?
Old Jan 13, 2009 | 08:43 PM
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im pretty sure, when i put a screwdriver to the number 1,2,3 injectors there's a real distinct tick but the 4,5,6 injectors are fairly quite. im doing a valve job tomarrow
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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iTick

Hey guys not to jack your post but I have an 83 Turbo so do I have the Hydraulic lifters and if so can those be fixed.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 03:40 PM
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Depends on what you mean by "fixed".

Check the stamping on your head. If it says P90, it's most likely got "mechanical" lifters, if it's P90A, it's most likely got hydraulic lifters, but there was some overlap in the casting and assembly process where some P90's have been found with hydraulic lifters and some P90A's have been found with mechanical lifters.

The "easiest" thing to do, is find a set of replacement lifters. They're no longer available from Nissan and I've never come across an aftermarket company that sells them so the next "best" thing to do is replace the P90A with a P90. Unfortunately, that's a relatively rare and coveted head. The next "best" thing to do is to convert them to mechanical lifters.
Old Jan 15, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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i saw in another forum about injectors to check the resistance. about what should it be?
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 01:01 PM
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so i put the seafoam in my gas tank and its helped a little not done emptying the tank yet i'll let you know if its better or if i need new injectors
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
Indeed. Cold is:

.007in / .17mm intake / .009in / .24mm exhaust Page 26 of the Haynes manual.
Hold on a sec. My Chilton on pg. 2-30 (I hate the way they number those things) says for the intake it's .010 in/ .25mm and for the exhaust it's .012 in/ .30mm. Which one is right? I've adjusted it to chilton specs before and it didn't really quiet down the ticking. My power did get a little better though. The valves really needed adjusted, and may need it again.
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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the adjustment that nismo has is if you want to do it when the engine is cool, the one you have is for when the engine is hot
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 04:57 PM
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Ah ok. Thank you. Thought i was doing it wrong for a second.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 02:32 PM
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ok so i thought the engine noise was going away, but after driving it today for about 100 miles i noticed that it was getting louder. after i parked it i went back in about 5 min later but now it starts but was boging like crazy then died. most of ignition is fairly new but still old fuel system. and it smells rich after the engine dies any ideas?

Last edited by scorpionp54; Jan 23, 2009 at 02:41 PM.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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well i tried starting it again and it fired right up, still not sure what it was though
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 03:00 PM
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What have you already checked?

Did you check the valve clearances?
Have you checked the timing?
All sensor connections?
AFM?
CHTS?
What do the spark plug tips look like when the motor dies (or has this problem)?
Is this a different tank of fuel since the Seafoam treatment?
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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i have done a valve job to spec, it is a new tank of fuel and i havent checked anything yet but it started like 20 min later so im not sure the plugs will tell the story now
Old Feb 3, 2009 | 05:49 PM
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i check my cylinder head temp sensor it was at 1.4 k/ohm cold, then i drove it for 20 min to get everything hot. tested it again it was about 249 ohms. is this about in range
Old Feb 3, 2009 | 07:07 PM
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Here... I don't feel like re-typing this. I'd say it's working.

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=ohms

Originally Posted by NismoPick
Haynes manual, page 111:

-22*F = 18 to 33K ohms
+14*F = 7 to 11.4K ohms
+68*F = 2.1 to 2.9K ohms
+122*F = .68 to 1K ohms
+176*F = .4 to .25K ohms
Old Feb 3, 2009 | 07:33 PM
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ok cool thanks, more testing tomarrow, compression.
Old Feb 4, 2009 | 07:25 PM
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just did my cold compression test, 175 all way across. i'll do a hot test this weekend
Old Feb 6, 2009 | 04:53 AM
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My car was ticking like that as well. The other day I did a few wide-open throttle pulls away from the lights (Van Halen on the iPod ), and next light, I stopped, noticed white smoke coming from the tailpipe. Next light, noticed the ticking noise was gone and my engine seemed to rev easier. No more smoke, either.

I think maybe I had carbon making a valve stick, or lodged in a seal, or something, and the WOT runs dislodged it and burned it off.

Or maybe it was the Van Halen. Have you tried that?
Old Feb 6, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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i haven't really done wot pulls but i have done a seafoam job. maybe i'll put on some van halen .
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 08:13 PM
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hot start still problem. so far i havent had time to be checking what could be causing this problem,(rain), but so far the only time that i can duplicate the proble is when i drive back and forth to my parents house, about 100 miles of freeway. but the last time it happened i touched the ignitor and it was only warm not burning hot, (read from other thread) but when i touched the injectors they were hotter then ****. could this problem be when fuel turns to vapor in the fuel rail.(injector fan is not on)i got it to start once while it was stumbleing by giving it throttle. took about 30 secs. car runs fine before i turn it off for the first time.



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