Engine head
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 420
From: Miami, FL
Engine head
So, I began work on the engine head on my spare ZX and I think I know which camshaft to go with.
MSA has a Stage II camshaft with the following specs:
Grind: 17033
Lift: .480
Duration: 274
All measured at .050
According to their description on this camshaft "good idle, power range 2000-6000 RPM".
Obviously, this is by no means a stock camshaft. MSA also sells springs and the rocker arms which they recommend getting new ones since this is a 'performance' camshaft.
Now, let's say I do purchase the camshaft I mentioned earlier. Here are my questions.
1. Can I just buy new 'stock like' springs and rocker arms, or do I have to purchase better springs and rocker arms?
2. Since I'm going to work on the engine block, if I get a new set of pistons, rings, etc; will a new set of 'stock like' pistons work with this camshaft?
I'm trying not to screw anything up, so better to ask questions than waste money on parts that will not give me what I want.
MSA has a Stage II camshaft with the following specs:
Grind: 17033
Lift: .480
Duration: 274
All measured at .050
According to their description on this camshaft "good idle, power range 2000-6000 RPM".
Obviously, this is by no means a stock camshaft. MSA also sells springs and the rocker arms which they recommend getting new ones since this is a 'performance' camshaft.
Now, let's say I do purchase the camshaft I mentioned earlier. Here are my questions.
1. Can I just buy new 'stock like' springs and rocker arms, or do I have to purchase better springs and rocker arms?
2. Since I'm going to work on the engine block, if I get a new set of pistons, rings, etc; will a new set of 'stock like' pistons work with this camshaft?
I'm trying not to screw anything up, so better to ask questions than waste money on parts that will not give me what I want.
The Evil Twin
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,297
From: Seattle, WA
I think anything over .450 lift requires NISMO springs so I would suggest getting the springs that go with that cam. Stock springs bind up. (they are fully compressed and bind the cam)
You ALWAYS buy new rockers when installing a new or reground cam.... or even a used cam if you don't have the original rockers that came with that used cam. (installed in the exact order they came out)
My suggestion is, if you are not going to raise your compression then get the stage I cam. Stage II is a bit much for stock compression
You ALWAYS buy new rockers when installing a new or reground cam.... or even a used cam if you don't have the original rockers that came with that used cam. (installed in the exact order they came out)
My suggestion is, if you are not going to raise your compression then get the stage I cam. Stage II is a bit much for stock compression
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 474
From: Boulder, CO
I got my stock '78 cam reground by Web, to their "94a" profile, seemed a good match to the flattop 10:1 upgrade that I've done. My stock springs measured out just fine, so I'm keeping them. Delta reground my rocker arms (the only way to avoid buying a whole new set). Both outfits were very reasonably priced, extremely professional, and fairly quick turnaround.
I used Web for the regrind because I didn't want to mess with the whole "Is it hardened? Are you *sure*?" mess that seems to be coming up with all the new-billet cams. But, had mine turned out not to be grindable, Web was the only place that had new billets and was willing to vouch for the hardness (Delta does great work, but it didn't look like they had new-billet cams when I was shopping, just regrinds).
I get the head back from the machine shop tomorrow, and then I get to play around with the stupid lash caps. Then we'll see if I made decent choices or if I just made a mess.
Just my 2 cents.
Dave
I used Web for the regrind because I didn't want to mess with the whole "Is it hardened? Are you *sure*?" mess that seems to be coming up with all the new-billet cams. But, had mine turned out not to be grindable, Web was the only place that had new billets and was willing to vouch for the hardness (Delta does great work, but it didn't look like they had new-billet cams when I was shopping, just regrinds).
I get the head back from the machine shop tomorrow, and then I get to play around with the stupid lash caps. Then we'll see if I made decent choices or if I just made a mess.
Just my 2 cents.
Dave
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 420
From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by Bleach
I think anything over .450 lift requires NISMO springs so I would suggest getting the springs that go with that cam. Stock springs bind up. (they are fully compressed and bind the cam)
You ALWAYS buy new rockers when installing a new or reground cam.... or even a used cam if you don't have the original rockers that came with that used cam. (installed in the exact order they came out)
My suggestion is, if you are not going to raise your compression then get the stage I cam. Stage II is a bit much for stock compression
You ALWAYS buy new rockers when installing a new or reground cam.... or even a used cam if you don't have the original rockers that came with that used cam. (installed in the exact order they came out)
My suggestion is, if you are not going to raise your compression then get the stage I cam. Stage II is a bit much for stock compression
As for the rockers, thanks for the tip. I figured I would need new ones, but I just wanted to make sure.
Any suggestions, or ideas, on the valves and pistons?
Big Poppa
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,499
From: Mission, British Columbia
dude, that is gonna be a big cam, its gonna idle rough, and the power band is from 3500-8000, i had that cam on my car, on the street, its not great with power brakes (lower vaccum) or emmisions testing, but, when you hit the power band, whoooo weeee that thing will go. to run a cam that large, higher compression will be required, trust me. i had 12:1 for mine. pistons go with the kit from msa, and yes bigger stiffer springs, cranecams makes a nice set for our cars, or at least it adapts perfectly. the machine shop can handle that part. and balance your engines rotating srtucture, that is very important. also the new rockers are very important, and new lash pads to match the cams new wipe pattern. i think aboot .120" hope that helps
Last edited by SHADY280; Jul 25, 2006 at 08:35 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 420
From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by SHADY280
dude, that is gonna be a big cam, its gonna idle rough, and the power band is from 3500-8000, i had that cam on my car, on the street, its not great with power brakes (lower vaccum) or emmisions testing, but, when you hit the power band, whoooo weeee that thing will go. to run a cam that large, higher compression will be required, trust me. i had 12:1 for mine. pistons go with the kit from msa, and yes bigger stiffer springs, cranecams makes a nice set for our cars, or at least it adapts perfectly. the machine shop can handle that part. and balance your engines rotating srtucture, that is very important. also the new rockers are very important, and new lash pads to match the cams new wipe pattern. i think aboot .120" hope that helps
But I figure in about a month or so I'll get the new rocker arms, new valves and send the head to a machine shop. Eventually I'll do the block as well.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,046
From: squwamton
Originally Posted by n00blar
The rest will have to wait a bit longer since I have some unexpected expenses from my house...I found damn termintes and I need to tent my house.
i say let them eat it .big burly Z motor or bugs in the walls...
i would go with the motor and then move later
...get them bugz
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CrAzY_84na
300ZX (Z31) Performance / Technical
13
Dec 19, 2004 10:43 PM
Bookmarks
