I am doing something,,,, Uniqe with the fule system in my motor bay. Got a couple of question's. Return line, is it needed?. Any suggestion on aftermarket fuel regulator's?
What size steel braid would be best to use? -04 -06 -08 -10?

I am gona leave ya'll at a guess on what i am doing, Above might be a clue or two, but that's all ya'll get

 

Yes, you absolutely need the return line.

 

For those of you who got a T/B spacer, where you get from?
How exactly must the Return line be set up, Before or after the injector's, things like that. I am building a custom Fuel set up in motor bay, Nothin will be stock except the injector's, and they will be new.

 

i got my off ebay with my raid...

return is after the injectors...it goes like this

LINE IN___INJECTORS___PRESSURE REGULATOR___RETURN...

 

hummm, i was gona put the pressure regulator before the injector's. I have never messed wiht a fule system, so this will be my first. The way i was gona set it up is, Line in_ Pressure regular_ injector's_end of line
But since the return line is needed,, i'll have to set something up, cause i won't be useing a fuel rail

 

well imagine this
if you put the pressure regulator before the injectors...there would be pressure BFORE THEM..and way less after the regulator and injectors would starve......wouldnt work...yes F U E L system is somethin else i tell ya!

 

well. I'll have to blend my plans with some new ones. But i got some worked up in my mind. Any regulator's you might suggest?. I can't remember the exact pressure these car's use, i think it's 37, but i might be off.
And out of all the BS bolted on the intake, Is there a way to make it just T/B, cold start, Injector's, and throtle linkage? Real question, What can i drop?

 

If you're keeping the cold start then you need to keep the air regulator as well. Otherwise you'll run too rich and the car wont idle worth a damn (if at all) while the car is still warming up. You can however eliminate the cold start valve and keep the air regulator. Then just adjust the AFM to compensate for the lack of the cold start valve.

Keep the air regulator. If you want to remove it then just raise you idle to compensate. But you'll have a high idle all the time. Toss the cold start and use the AFM to compensate. If you're keeping the car at it's stock or near stock power levels then just keep the stock FPR. Be weary though that by going with a rail-less system that you will be far more prone to leaks and that can be a nightmare.

 

believe me if you dont run the cold start stuff it sucks if its anywhere below 50 deg. or 17 celciusish. it also makes the idle go higher for the a/c system as i found out. you gotta pedal it to get it to start, great anti theft feature. and use dash 6 line it is more than adequite. stock it dash 5. impossible to mate up with, you gotta buy specially made fittings

 

With the high idle though as long as you keep the air regulator then that shouldn't be a problem. I eliminated my cold start a couple years ago cause it was squirting fuel onto my hood and engine bay. I just ran the AFM a little richer at idle and it never had any problems. I've been through some cold winters too living in South Dakota for a while. Cold start isn't all that vital. It's the air regulator you need. Without that the car can be a bitch when cold. Especially if the cold start is still hooked up.

 

I have seen two diff air regulator's, one has two vacume lines, other two elc lines, Mine has elc. I want to get rid of as much stuff as I can.

 

The air regulator has one injector style electrical connector. It has two air lines: one from before the throttle and one for after the throttle. From there there are two types: The turbo and the non turbo. The turbo regulator has the coolant routing/lines built into it. The non turbo regulator bolts to the coolant block on the manifold. It's a seperate piece.

Neither should have vacuum lines though.

 

what size rubber hose are pressed onto the Injectors?

 

I found you a little something if you really want to go returnless. Check this out: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku . You just gotta figure if it's worth it or not.

 

The reasion I want to go return less is because of the design i would be useing. Even though that looks tempting, I don't think i want to drop that much dough into the car till i can get it to idle.