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Old 08-22-2008, 08:00 AM
  #26  
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hey man i dont bolt nothing together, look at zachs thread, im putting a 400hp chev 350 in it. not really bolt in, and def. not happening for 1000 bux, i dont know how much he spent on the engine and tranny, but the little stuff is whats going to kill you, just dont tell zach!! and ed, youll have to switch to rack steering, then it fits fine, unless you build a custom header for that side.
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:21 AM
  #27  
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Hehe. I'm a deal hunter man.

The mods to my engine that I bought would have cost me 4k at least. The guy used it for racing, I found it on craigslist and made a 3 hour journey one way to get the sucker. I paid $2k for my engine, and with Matt's work and other parts, my total cost will be around $4k. I got the tranny for $250. Talked the guy down a tad from what he wanted. He had pulled it out of an old camaro and kept it in his garage for a long time.

Considering the cheapest mechanic I found wanted $3500 to rebuild my existing L2, I'm QUITE happy. I always told my fiance I'd rather rebuild my car, then get another one lol. So here it goes.

In my opinion, from researching stuff, yeah, you can get a turbo nissan motor to be 600hp, if you spend at least twice what I spend on my car and do all the work yourself. You might get 300hp on the L2, if it's turbo, and spend a couple grand on upgrades. Now considering I didn't do the work myself, I'm paying matt to do it, I'm spending 4k for 425 or whatever hp, non turbo'd. That's pretty sweet deal. Blasphemous or not.

So, stock chevy engines suuucccckkkk. But if you can find a really built up one, on craigslist, thats your best bet. Otherwise, it just isn't worth it. And, it's a lot of work, Matt's been messaging me all the complications and stuff, you gotta be a really proficient mechanic to pull this off man @_@
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Old 08-22-2008, 04:31 PM
  #28  
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but the thing is, im doing all the work myself.. so im going to save a @#$% load of money. because im a mechanic and i know a good deal about how to do everything. and if not i ask questions and figure out how to do it the right way. i figure about $500 for the engine, and rebuild it. god only know's how much money for performance parts.. about 400 for the transmission and about 1500 for the rear differential (at most) so it shouldnt break me all that bad.
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Old 08-22-2008, 04:36 PM
  #29  
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rear differential? why?
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Old 08-22-2008, 05:30 PM
  #30  
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one, i have a automatic transmission.. and when i get the money whatever engine i get will be built up around 450-500 wheel horse power..
i heard the differential couldnt handle it. could it?
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Old 08-22-2008, 05:34 PM
  #31  
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even tho, if i do have to change out the differential then it will be the last to go, because i can drive around with the v8 in the car, i just wouldnt be rough on it until i knew it could handle it. plus im going from AT to MT.
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Old 08-22-2008, 06:13 PM
  #32  
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you didnt here ****! no one says that unless they are tards there's people that ran a TT LS1 for a whle until there R200 dumped its guts at the track, these things have done wheel stands with the R200. many will upgrade to a LSD like power brute or something but many leave in the stock diff until its absolutely necessary.
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:08 PM
  #33  
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If your Z has the R200, you'll be fine. Those things can handle more than 400 lb/ft of torque without flinching.
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:23 PM
  #34  
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geez bro, calm downn.. im not hear to cause a fuss, just to learn stuff so i do everything right. im on a few forums and i just heard and i wanted to comfirm it and see if it was true or not.

Last edited by michanic220; 08-22-2008 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:27 PM
  #35  
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it says RB35 under transaxle on the tag under the hood, would that be it? where and how would i find out what kind of diff i have?
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Old 08-22-2008, 08:50 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by michanic220
it says RB35 under transaxle on the tag under the hood, would that be it? where and how would i find out what kind of diff i have?
Told ya you came to the wrong forum for that lol.

These guys HATE engine swaps, especially for american engines.


They have no problem engine swapping an entirely different engine, as long as it's nissan though
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Old 08-22-2008, 10:56 PM
  #37  
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so hybrid Z V8 forums better? =P
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:09 PM
  #38  
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it was sarcasm. lol i cant believe you took something i said seriously, unless i diliberatly cuss straight at you like use your name... im not being serious.
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:35 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by michanic220
so hybrid Z V8 forums better? =P
Better? Meh.

More helpful? Probably.
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:06 AM
  #40  
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you forgot some serious money wasters while building that car. your gonna spend way more than you think, you didnt even mention the driveshaft, thats 280 bux around here, with my discount!! if your rebuilding it for more hp, your gonna need 4000, if starting from stock to make any power.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:33 AM
  #41  
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yea, i know.
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Old 08-23-2008, 12:36 PM
  #42  
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i paid $500 for a friends fresh circle track race motor, spent $800 on heads, spent $100 on a th350 freebie set of headers and a free aeromotive FPR nad $80 for solid motor and trans mounts. now the motor came with things like carb, dizzy...etc and it fits real good in the engine bay of my z32 real well. but anywho....

total cost of parts=$1634
total estimated cost to rebuild vg30de=$5784
total estimated cost to rebuild trans==$1984
=total cost to rebuild the stock sht= way too fcking much!!

Last edited by hoov100; 08-23-2008 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 08-23-2008, 04:36 PM
  #43  
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The R200 R&P is actually LARGER than a 9" Ford. How many people in the muscle car world swap in a 9" Ford rear-end when they're making "crazy" power?

Answer: Everyone

The R200 in my RB26DETT 240Z is the stocker with a Quaife LSD. It'll hold up longer than all the other parts of the driveline. People upgrade to the R230 not for a "stronger" differential, but to get "real" CV axles! The U-Joint axles in the stock Z cars are the weak link. Even the "upgraded" pseudo-CV axles in the Turbo 280ZX are "slightly" stronger than the factory U-Joint axles.
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:25 PM
  #44  
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ohhh, gotcha. i heard those were pretty easy to swap out tho.
the L28e isnt coming out for a while. im going to build up the 350 on a stand and get everything i need before i do the engine swap.
where would i find what differential i have?
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:30 PM
  #45  
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another question.. motor mounts.. it looks that there are 4 (12MM?) bolts holding the engine in via the engine mounts. two bolts on each side.
do they sell engine mounts from a l28 to a 350 conversion? or do i have to make them? i have a welder and access to machines (lathe, milling machine, etc.)
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:33 PM
  #46  
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JTR sells a kit for it.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:54 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by michanic220
where would i find what differential i have?
By looking at it... or looking in your Haynes manual... or check this pic:

R200 on the left... R180 on the right:



I think all 82-83's came w/ the R200. Are you asking what gear ratio you have?
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:31 PM
  #48  
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i cant tell a difference. lol


JTR sells mount kits i also believe thezstore.com does as well.
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Old 08-24-2008, 09:28 AM
  #49  
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you cant tell because the r200 is missing its flanges out the side. buy the jtr kit, its way way better then athe kit from msa. after doingthe whole thing, each store has its parts, but the jtr kit owns. they even have the headers that are custom made for the swap, but youll need the rack and pinion setup for it to work, trust me. msa has the throttle cable, speedo cable, and temp sensor, all very nice parts, and i reccomend them.
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:05 AM
  #50  
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alright, thanks guys.
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