Alright, well I have a question. I couldn't find an aswer to. I was looking at my injectors. From front to back: Injectors 1 and 3 are definitely leaking near where they screw in. Injectors 2 and 4 look a little wet, Injectors 5 and 6 look perfectly dry. I'm assuming the injectors are fireing, I didn't think to do the screw driver test on them, but the car still seems to idle ok and everything, but I'm wondering is there any way to tell if it's the injector itself or the o-rings that go on the end of the injectors? I'm thinking I'll go get my set of 6 injectors from my Z31 and go pick up 6 new o-rings and just replace the seals on all of them, and proabbly pull it apart tomorrow.

How can you tell if the injector is leaking or if it's just the ring? Is it possible for the injector to be working, and the injector itself have a leak? Or would you still not notice it?

Also on Injector 3, the leakage looks like it's more around the top rubber base, where as injector 1 the leakage looks like it's under that rubber base.

 

It is almost never the 0-rings. You'll have a vaccume leak if the o-rings are bad. The injectors themselves leak internally and ooze out anywhere. Replace them all.
Injectors usually still work while they leak. Mine did.

 

Should I bother replacing the last 2 injectors that look fine? Also is there really any way of visual inspection to tell if they're good? I went and got my 300zx injectors. As far as I'm aware they were fine, but I just want to make sure.

 

Anyhting worth doing, is worth doing right. If you're going to go through the trouble of pulling the rail to get to the 4 that you know are leaking... Replace them all. Besides, you want all 6 working as close to the same as possibble for maximum performance. Don't cut corners. It will always come back to bite you.

Rod.

 

Alright makes sense, but like I said, are there physical indications to look for on injectors, that let you know it's ok? I just want to make sure. Also from what I hear and what the Haynes guide says, it doesn't look like it's too hard of a process. How long would you guys say it takes?

 

Well the first time I did an injector. It took me like 4 hours or more. Now it takes me either 1 or 2 hours, depending on what ones are leaking. If it is the front ones, take the longest time I gave you. But since you are new to this kind of thing. Expect it to take more for you. And it isn't real difficult of a process. Kind of a pain to loosen them up, but you get a knack for it after a few times. It took me about 2 hours to remove the whole rail, and injectors, along with the air regulator, EGR, and such. Of course I am removing my intake and exhaust manifold, and putting on headers. Hope to have that done in a week or two. Hope this helps you out, if you have any more questions, or are having trouble, we will be happy to help you out anyway we can.

 

Alright so far, I've been alright with the angle for most of the bolts holding down the rail, my biggest concern right now is, how do I get the little clips off the injectors. haynes says to remove the elecrtical clips. I can get to some of them, but others are at really odd angles, and whats the best thing to use to get that little metal clip around them off, pliers. Also what's the best way to unhook the fuel lines, just keep pulling at them?

 

Those little clips usually get pressed in on one side and will release.

Fuel hoses usually will come off if you twist slightly while pulling. On more stubborn ones, I've found that working the end a bit with a small flathead screwdriver will loosen them, but be very careful. If the fuel line is so brittle that it comes apart easily, then replace them with GOOD hose...

 

Alright I'm ready to pull off the fuel rail, the onl;y problem is there,s a bolt that the one pulley goes through. I removed the pulley, and then there is the metal coolant line that runs past it, do I really have to drain my coolant to pull this line off?

I disconnected the rubber hoses from both ends of the line, and coolant started pouring out of the one hose, so I plugged them back together.

 

You "should" be able to pull all those lines off that bolt in order to get the rail holder off. Just be delicate yet firm with it all. It's been done...

 

Alright, I'm just looking for this info. I know in the Haynes guide they say you can just go ahead and change the hose if it's ruined to the injetors? So what would you do with that, loosen the clamp and pull it off the rail, but the other part of the hose that is attached to the injector, how do you remove that? Just pull it out and force the new hose into there? It's kind of annoying how the guide doesn't really go into deal on changing injectors.

Edit: Thinking it through, I'm not really sure on the condition of the 300ZX injectors. How do you guys feel about remanufactured Injectors from Autozone or something. I'm thinking of buying just new, but the remanufactured ones look pretty cheap so I figured I'd see how you guys feel about these.

 

I don't think you can change that part, or I would've tried! I thnk you need to spring for new injectors. If you ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO, get remanufactured, but it would be best to go with new.
It's costly, but I've been though the remanned before and it ain't worth the trouble!!

My 2 cents...

 

I had good luck with Remans, but I had my original injectors rebuilt by someone I know and trust. I haven't had any problems with them at all. I think it depends more on the source than anything. If they are really cheap, chances are that they aren't very good. It's like those 25 dollar Kragen starters... Yeah, they'll start your car, but for how long? My biggest recommendation, is to stay away from AutoZone And Kragen/Checker/Shucks "house brand" stuff. It's usually garbage.

Rod.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I'm probably gonna spring for new injectors. I was thinking about the 300ZX Injectors, and then I remembered the fact that there was a whole Nissan Service Campaign fixing all the faulty injectors in all model 300ZX's, and I began to question if I should really bother with the 300ZX injectors. So here's what I found from the following:

Autozone:
New GP-Sorensen - $34.99
Beck/Arnley - $48.99 with a $5.00 core.(Not listed whether it's new or Remmaned)

Advance Auto Parts:
GP-Sorensen - $35.94
Beck/Arnley Remmaned - $55.48
Beck/Arnley New - $73.97
Borg Warner - $65.99
etc.

I'm just wondering, is there a specific brand I should go with, or does it not really matter?

Thanks for all the help guys.

Is there a way to have injectors tested, before you put them in your car?

 

I've been hearing that you're better off to stay away from other types of injectors and mainly just stick with Bosch ones. What brands of injectors does anyone else use, or do you guys just stick with the Bosch injectors?