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When warm, idles rough and eventually shuts down

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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 01:29 PM
  #26  
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Yes, i have power to everything i am supposed to when the key is on and when the key is in the ignition.
Old Dec 14, 2010 | 02:04 PM
  #27  
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For the life of me I cant figure out why I don't have power to my Fuel pump. Like I said earlier I only get power when I initially turn the ignition on, then after that I cant get power to the pump at all. Any ideas? I have power to everything else that should have power.
Old Dec 14, 2010 | 03:00 PM
  #28  
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did you check for power during cranking ? rec. disconnect starter signal wire for testing .
Old Dec 15, 2010 | 04:21 AM
  #29  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=A2MpGzI4354




that is a video of the wiring going to the fuel pump with a tester on it. as you can see i get power for a split second as soon as the key is turned on, then nothing. Looks like something in the ecu isnt giving it power. Any ideas?
Old Dec 15, 2010 | 05:37 AM
  #30  
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test light should stay on a little longer than that . did you test for power at ign. switch during crank ?
Old Dec 15, 2010 | 07:19 AM
  #31  
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The car will actually turn over, so i have power at the ignition the dash turns on radio etc.
Old Dec 15, 2010 | 09:21 AM
  #32  
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will the motor with carb. spray ? do you have injector pulse ?
Old Dec 15, 2010 | 10:55 AM
  #33  
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Yes the motor will start if i give it fuel, And it will run for as long as it has fuel.
Old Dec 15, 2010 | 11:15 AM
  #34  
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have you tried power up fuel pump with a jumper wire and ran it that way ? you didnt tell me if it has injector pulse .
Old Dec 15, 2010 | 04:41 PM
  #35  
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What is Injector Pulse, and how do i find out?
Old Dec 16, 2010 | 03:33 PM
  #36  
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try jumper wire first at fuel pump , if it runs , you dont need to check for injector pulse . to check for injector pulse , disconnect injector connector and plug a noid light if you have one or use a test light . check to see if your ecm sending signal to injectors , the light will flash if you have signal .
Old Jan 10, 2011 | 01:45 PM
  #37  
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okay, so I went around the ECU and supplied power directly to the fuel pump on a toggle switch. The pump was working correctly just supplying way too much gas and the car was running very rich. Does this mean I have an issue with the ECU or some other part of the fuel to air system?
Old Jan 10, 2011 | 01:58 PM
  #38  
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Also what it could be is your ICM (ignition control module) Which is located on your distributor. I have read if your car gets warm, it will shut off. And not restart until the engine is cool again. Hope you figure it out.
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #39  
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check your fuel pressure to see if it is within spec. , both with and without vac. to press. regulator . make sure no fuel is coming out at reg. vac. port .

Last edited by ls1angela; Jan 11, 2011 at 03:19 PM.
Old Jan 13, 2011 | 09:06 AM
  #40  
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if pressure is too low or too high is the pump the issue? if its where it should be where to check next?
Old Jan 18, 2011 | 05:37 AM
  #41  
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pump or press. regultor . tell me what your press. readings are , with and without vac. to press. regulator .

Last edited by ls1angela; Jan 18, 2011 at 05:39 AM.
Old Feb 19, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #42  
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Okay, so im having a hard time finding a pressure tester that will give me enough PSI. All the testers im finding around here go up to PSI at most. Any brand model i should be looking for? I may have to buy online. I also tried to rent from the parts stores and nobody had anything that would help.
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 11:15 PM
  #43  
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Uranus did you ever figure out what was wrong with your car i have the exact same issue and ive taken it to spe******ts so i can get it fixed no luck yet. mine dies on the freeway usually
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:49 AM
  #44  
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Yes I did, my issue was a combination Fuel pump. Was clogged full of crap from the 7 or 8 years it sat full of gas. And The ECU went bad. Put in a new Fuel pump, and got an ecu off of ebay for 30$ and now it runs like a dream. No issues any more.
Old Apr 26, 2011 | 01:04 PM
  #45  
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i m glad you got your running . sorry , i havent checked this site lately . i was kinda busy helped others with ls1 conversion .
Old May 12, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #46  
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hey im having the exact same problems as you are in my 1982 280zx. i was wondering if your found out what was wrong with your car. i replaced all the parts that you did too and still sputtering. please respond . thank you
Old May 12, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #47  
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uranus i replaced my fuel pump with a brand new one and its still sputtering. what else did you replace.. is it the ecu? relays?
Old Jun 22, 2024 | 08:59 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by uranus
1983 280zx, When the car warms us it starts to idle rough, and eventually will shut down. When the engine cools back down again it will run like a top.

I did a little reading and read somewhere that this is commonly caused by the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor, does this sound right? I ordered a new one from Nissan and want to make sure that replacing this will take care of the problem before i go and pay for it.

Someone else said to check the mass air flow, but i find it hard to believe it would be cause by this due to the temp. issue.

Anyone else have this problem?
I have the same problem with my '82. Guessing heat soak/vapor lock. Fuel lines gets too hot and evaporates fuel, so motor only gets vapors. Not sure, but have had similar problems with many Z cars. My solution was to make sure the engine bay doesnt get too hot. Oversized radiator. New thermostat etc. Not sure, when cool it runs perfectly.
Old Jun 23, 2024 | 07:07 PM
  #49  
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You do know you are responding to a post that is 13 years old........................right?
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