No Start
#26
The air gap was just slightly off but, I went ahead and adjusted it but, still no fire. I haven't tested the ignition module yet but, I went ahead and tested for spark again and I have a good spark at both the wire from the coil, and at the number 6 wire. This problem is frying my brain
#27
I have a feeling either the piston rings are bad, the head is warped, or god just hates me. I've gone through everything that could possibly be wrong and I've gotten no further then when I started. Bah! Maybe I just give up, anyone want to buy a 1979 280zx 2+2 slicktop with 78,803 miles, black interior, great interior/exterior except for some cracks on the dash.
#28
So you DO have spark. Are you sure the distributor isn't 180 off? Remember there are two TDC's for each cylinder. Compression stroke and exhaust stroke. You have to be at TDC on the compression stroke of cylinder #1 to set everything properly. Are you sure that was the case?
Cause if you're getting fuel and spark then it's got to be the timing of one or the other. ECU controls fuel timing and the Distributor/IM controls spark timing.
Cause if you're getting fuel and spark then it's got to be the timing of one or the other. ECU controls fuel timing and the Distributor/IM controls spark timing.
#29
Well, I set the engine at exact TDC according to the timing mark, removed the distributor, oil pump, and then shaft. I cleaned up the oil pump and shafter and reinstalled the pair making sure the lineup was perfect. I threaded two bolts while I checked the line up of the rotor as according to the pictures on "http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/engine.htm". When I was satisfied with everything I tightened everything. The cap has the little number one facing me while I wired up everything the correct way, I confirmed spark at both the coil-cap wire and an actual spark plug wire as well, and I guarentee you the air gap, spark plug gap, and everything else is properly cleaned up, lined up, and installed. I hope this helps somewhat but, what I don't get is why the car would run and then not run especially when now things are even better, I suppose I could still have some mystery issue with the spark plug wire lineup at the cap or something, maybe I should take a picture of my cap and number all the wires for you guys to see and critique.
#30
just for giggles take the dizzy out and turn it 180 deg. reinstall and try it, that has got to be it. if your getting spark at the locations described, that means the im module is working corectly cause thats its job. youve checked everything else, if it was anything else the car would still run and sputter a bit. try the dizzy thing, thats got to be it
#32
Well, shouldn't the vacuum advance be on the right side when you face the motor? If so that's how Mine is positioned, I put it back the same way I took it off but, if you think it will make a difference I will definitely try it, might as well. I don't understand why it's acting like this though because even if the timing was waaaaay off wouldn't some fuel build up in the motor causing even the slightest sputter? Also I think my cold start valve is trigger happy because after attempting to start for 10 seconds I have fuel coming out the throttle body. One more thing, if the Catalytic Converter was very clogged up could it do this? or are we thinking it has to be timing/spark related?
#34
Sorry I must've written my reply in such a way that it was confusing but, I tried turning around the distributor but the intake manifold hits the vacuum thingie so I can't. BUT, I decided to try this, I labeled all of the spark plug wires with BIG BOLD numbers on a piece of tape, then I took them all off and only plugged in the number one cylinder, I then test started it with just the one wire plugged in and moved it over one space each time until I thought I heard a kick, so then I plugged all of them in accordling 1-5-3-6-4-2 (I've got that memorized now haha) and it kicked over!!!! I came back inside to share the good news, Im slowly adjusting the distributor right now trying to get it to actually start, I might have to move the plugs over one more or something but, anyways, I just wanted to share the good news. I'll be back in a little bit with updates and pictures.
#36
right on, it has to be the dizzy, or the stuff directly related to it. the vaccuum advance must point towards the front of the motor, away ftom the intake mnfld. if you put the plugs starting at #1, then try and it doesnt work, then take the dizzy out and rotate the rotor 180 deg, try again, one way has to work. doing what your doing will work, just takes time.
#38
Oh and I dont know if that was typo or what but the firing order should actually be: 1,5,3,6,2,4 (you had 2 and 4 reversed in your post).
EDIT: Oh and you also know that the firing order goes counter clockwise around the dizzy right?
EDIT: Oh and you also know that the firing order goes counter clockwise around the dizzy right?
#39
Okay well Im back and I tried moving the plugs over one in each direction but, it seems that where I have it now gets me to most response, the motor turns over great, and I get a little sputter but, it won't go past 300rpm and when I turn the key to off it rumbles around 200rpm for a second so I think Im on the right track, although Im going to go ahead and call it a night unless you guys give me some miracle answers. I tried adjusting the distributor in both directions and it seems I get the most response when it's rotated as far as it will go counter clockwise.
#44
As long as that #1 wire is on the #1 tower (I cant remember the orientation off the top of my head) then the wires are all in the proper order. Is the rotor pointing toward #1 when the engine is at #1 TDC on compression?
#45
Originally Posted by duowing
that is quite possibly the zaniest distributor wiring I've seen.
How do you like my freshly painted cam cover
#47
Originally Posted by jfairladyz
As long as that #1 wire is on the #1 tower (I cant remember the orientation off the top of my head) then the wires are all in the proper order. Is the rotor pointing toward #1 when the engine is at #1 TDC on compression?
#48
Timing mark is fine. Make sure it's at 0. Just to be doubly sure though, make sure that the cam lobes for #1 are both facing upwardsish (both valves are closed). You can get it close by just cranking it over in really quick, short bursts until it lines up. It doesn't have to be exact. Just close. From there you can tell if the rotor is facing the right way. It'll either be facing #1 or #6. If it's closer to #6 then it is to #1 then it's off. There's no middle ground with the distributor. Its 180 or spot on.
#49
**** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** ****, okay so I moved the car by hand to TDC PERFECT, then i pulled the cap and it was inbetween 1 and 6 so i think hey, it's at TDC I will put the #1 plug where the rotor is pointing, and I hook up all the wires and I got to start it, crank crank crank BOOM! a loud pop I turn the key to off and look, whatever happened it blew my afm clean off with a little bit of smoke, there was some fuel build up from the trigger happy cold start valve, could that have been it or did I really mess up something? it's 11:45 in my quiet neighborhood and it sounds like I just fired a Shotgun!
#50
every time you cycle the key, the cold start valve will give some gas. that and the car is prolly flooded. sounds like your dizzy orientation is off, but your on the right track, from where your at now, just keep turning the timing to get it started then fine tune.