sk8ur_9

hey, does anyone here have a N/A 280zx on N2o?? right now im running a NX 75 dry shot, just wondering right now I have a controller that shoots the N20 at 3500RPM and shuts off at 7000RPM but i was wondering would it be better to only to run it to 5000RPM, because sum guy told me it will cause detention ??
"but it still pulls all the way to 6800RPM"
thnxs for any help in advance*

lww

Yeah, you really need to be careful about adding so much O2 to the combustion chamber without an appropriate amount of additional fuel.

I don't run N2O on any of my Z cars, but I have run it on a Corvette, a Mustang, an Explorer and a couple of Honda's.

jfairladyz

As long as you can reliably(key word) run enough fuel at the high RPM's to go with the N2O, then you'll be alright. But as soon as the fuel system can't keep up, it's detonation time. Just be careful, and as long as the engine can handle 7000rpm, you shouldn't have a problem. Just make sure the fuel system is up to the task.

Skully

damn you really are pushing the Rpm's...is this a stock motor?

jfairladyz

I didn't want to bring it up, but since skully asked....

s/cL3.0

I will just keep my coments to myself

sk8ur_9

yea its all stock, N/A 79' L28... the only things I have done is in my sig below..right now the engine runs gr8 I took it to dyno last week, and ran it once with out N20 and the second w/ N20 all the way to 7000RPM (((this time I changed the N20 jets to 75 shot ajustable frm 25-150 shot)))....

*with out N2O= 155HP/162TQ
*with N20@6800RPM= 238HP/246TQ
*but i havt ran it in the 1/4 mile/ soon to come

lww

So, the flowmaster and spark plugs aren't going to give you 155hp.

Did you do anything to the motor during the engine rebuild?

EatmyDust

so can some one explain to me if the fule system can't keep up at high rpm's how dose this make detonation acure? if you arn't geting fuel what are you going to detanate, and your not changing your compresion ration with change of rpm. or is it that some one used the term detenation without realizing what that word ment. uncontroled burning takes place in one of the stages of igniton. not propagation not nucleus of flame, not hatching out but the other one right?

Dorifto

Detonation occurs in lean-run situations as well. A lean burn increases combustion chamber heat, and as a result pre-ignites the air/fuel mix entering the chamber. Running a healthy shot of Nitrous Oxide introduces excess Oxygen into the combustion chamber. Dry shots only inject Nitrous Oxide, Wet shots inject both Nitrous and fuel. If a Dry shot isn't tuned correctly or matched to the fuel system it's working with, there's more Oxygen injected than fuel to burn it with, and thus a lean-burn, and detonation. In badly-tuned situations, even a Wet-shot can be detonation-prone. Hopefully all that made sense, because that came off the top of my head.

Those are impressive numbers, especially on an otherwise stock engine! Really makes me think twice about trying that KA24DE/Z24 hybrid, when I can run my spec-six on the strip as well. You're seriously running to 7000rpm? Damn, that sounds like punishment. When does the power start to fall off on your dyno chart? This is excellent information I'd like to have before I build my engine.

-Dave-O

sk8ur_9

yea im running to 7000RPM..on the dyno the power w/N20-238HP, then it drops at 7200RPM down to 198HPand 201TQ this is wher I lost massive power and u could tell on the dyno computer wher the graph was progressing up(acceleration) and then @7200RPM both TQ and HP drop straight down... When the engine was rebuilt it was ported to A 3.0 and fererra valves/springs/and lifters, and the intake/exaust ports were ported a lil bigger but that what came out on the dyno was 155HP with out the N20 and right now i have a MSD Rev limiter, and NGK ignition I just got in 3days ago. The rev limit is set to 7100RPM and shift @ 7000RPM...also with the nitrous I run higher octane gas about 98-- this will prevent detonation which is required to run more octane with N20--, I looked into going for straight alcohol (drag race fuel) but its waaayy to expensive for a daily driver.

sk8ur_9

Jus wondering is anyone else running N20????

Dorifto

I installed the nitrous system on my brother's '89 Prelude 2.1 Si. It's still running strong ... almost two years later. We love the performance gain, combined with the 2.5" exhaust, intake, and port polish. It's a 75-wet-shot, Holley NOS system, with a 10-lb. bottle, bottle blanket, and heater. Can't remember the overall numbers, but it knocked about a second and a half off the car's 1/4-mile time.

jfairladyz

Dorifto explained that perfectly. The biggest reliability factor with n2o is when using fuel solenoids to supply the extra fuel. If that solenoid don't kick on, then its bye bye motor depending on how big of a shot you're running. And all those mods explain why your engine can handle running to 7k. Keep up the good work. With the booming popularity of turbos these days, the nitrous crowd is a dieing breed. Due mostly to myth, but with proper precaution, nitrous is every bit as effective as any other form of forced induction (that is what it is, forced induction). The only downside is constantly having to refill bottles.

Heat Rave R

Is your nitrous system connected to/activated by the throttle position sensor, or is it solely rpm-based? I have a Zex system lying around, and it's activated by throttle position. But I wasn't sure if our cars ('82 Turbo in my case) TPS uses an esoteric, or otherwise, unreadable signal that the Zex system can't interpret.

xsciuga

I have an 82 NA and I'm thinking It's somewhere in mid 15's right now, I want a nx dry shot kit...to see if I can take srt4's. I don't know how the car runs so strong, to be honest. Timing is advanced, Car is stripped (Probaly why) I probaly pulled a couple hundred lbs out of it..I'm thinkin I'd dyno around 160..andprobaly way around 2500...Srt4 weighs 2900 dynos about 230...think a 75 shot would make good comp?

sk8ur_9

My N20 is activated by RPM, "If i have the bottle open and im driving normal and I pass 3000RPM the N2o will start shootin" ive done it once and its not pretty ther wasnt enough fuel to keep with the N20 so i tryed to floor it to get enough gas, but the engine ran hard basically running on solely on N2O and then, just completly shut off, but now I hardly race (unless I see good comp ) so I have the rev limiter set reallllllyyy low @ 2900RPM and plus its good cuz everyone has those friends that will just want to --drive&REV the **** out of your car,so really they cant go fast b4 the rev limiter kicks in

280ZX_AV8R

xsciuga, I hope you could outrun that SRT-4. Dodge really made that Neon fast. I wish Nissan would release a turbo-charged car for a good price that could outrun the SRT-4. I would definetely get one then. Maybe they could call it the 2007 Nissan Turbo 280ZX . It would be good to see the return of the 280ZX

Dorifto

My brother's system is activated by the horn buttons on the steering wheel. We wired the original buttons to a two-way switch ... flick it up, and the nitrous is activated when the buttons are pressed. Flip it down, and the horn operates normally. We also have a contact switch on the throttle body that won't allow the system to shoot until 95% throttle.

I dunno about running on the SRT4s ... I'm not saying you can't do it though. A friend of mine has an SRT4 with about 3/4 of the Mopar Stage 1 kit [basically ignition upgrade, up the boost, increase fuel pressure, ECU remap] and a straight-through, side exit exhaust [2.5"]. Dyno'd at 301 FWHP, and 320ft.lbs. Can't think of the times off the top of my head, but it's quick enough to own on a Bonneville SSEI [running a 9lb pulley and slicks] at the track all night long.

I'm confident that with a decent shot of Nitrous Oxide and the subsequent tuning, you'd be able to take a stock SRT4.