ok guys here is the realistic goal for my 280zx gimme some feed back or lemme know some other changes that i should make
-head ported and polished
-intake ported to 60mm and polished
-cam kit from arizonazcar.com
-forged 87mm pistons from arizonazcar.com
-headers from black dragon(2" mandrel bent downpipe ceramic coated)
-exhaust system from black dragon
-240sx throttle body
-Pallnet barb fuel rail
-summit racing fuel pressure gauge
and thats about it untill i get more money.

 

I dont see any problems with that setup. Dont know if you'll quite need the larger throttle body though. Might want to put that money into the suspension or something. It's just my opinion that a naturally aspirated L28 will not outflow the stock throttle body.

Better yet, you could save all that money and just get an L28ET for probably less then all that stuff will add up to and have a LOT more power for you money. And future power will be less expensive as well.

 

You mean L28ET right?

 

one thing i forgot to mention is if someone could explain to me what lift and duration id want on the cam...and y?

 

That depends on what RPM range you will be driving in.... is this build up for a track car? auto-x? street racing? daily driver?

You don't want a hugely hot cam if it's to be a daily driver. Hot cams make ROUGH idle & make the best power in the high rpms.... like this one: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-2006

If you want a daily driver w/ some *****, go w/ a mild cam... such as this MSA one: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-2001


I suggest reading some engine design/build books (especially Nissan OHC specific) before you jump into this. Knowledge is power ... school house rock!

 

thats the kinda cam im lookin for power in the mid rpms. but the problem is arizonazcar has a cam kit... oh wait yeah msa's got a cheaper kit w/ that cam i want ok well i guess i'll take the msa cam kit then thanks nismopick

 

Not a prob... but check out the MSA entire cam kit. You want new rockers w/ a new cam... that might be why the AZ-Zcar kit is more expensive than the MSA cam...

 

one step ahead of ya http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?
i figured its cheaper, the cam i want, and has the stuff as the other guys

 

yeah...corrected.

 

so all these parts will work 100%? ok im goin for it

 

Remember what I said earlier?

Just some advice.... but PROPER performance engine building requires more knowledge than just slapping on some performance parts. Have you actually analized what advantage/disadvantage these parts have? Have you checked to see how much each upgrade will cost???


-head ported and polished ... 7-9hp ... $300
-intake ported to 60mm and polished ... MAYBE 5hp
-cam kit from arizonazcar.com ... 20hp ... $500 ?
-forged 87mm pistons from arizonazcar.com ... YOU DON'T NEED THEM ... $750
-BLOCK MUST BE BORED IF YOU GET BIGGER PISTONS ... $150
-headers from black dragon(2" mandrel bent downpipe ceramic coated) ... 5-8hp ... $250
-exhaust system from black dragon ... 1-3hp ... $200
-240sx throttle body ... 3-5hp ... $50
-Pallnet barb fuel rail ... 0hp ... $100
-summit racing fuel pressure gauge ... 0hp ... $40
and thats about it untill i get more money.


Rough hp gain = 45-50hp for a cost of $1500 - $2200

hum... that's a pretty crappy deal to gain 50hp. FYI... forged pistons are for high hp engines... 200hp isn't high hp.

It would be MUCH cheaper, and MUCH more effective to find an L28ET, but if you are a die hard NA engine guy, I again suggest reading ENGINE MOD books before doing this.

 

Also with the arizonazcar pistons you have to use the elusive 9mm 240Z rods. If you want to stay N/A, use stock flat tops with a rebuilt N42 maybe with a mild clean up and unshrouded valves. Extensive head work can easily go over the 1k mark. Put in a bigger cam (you'll have to research what cam specs you want) with the headers and exhaust. Pretty standard street buildup. And yes, read the Nissan/Datsun OHC book.

 

first off naw cant geta l28et thers none here at all... yeah die hard na. i put in teh forged pistons on the list to open up the possibility of later in life puttin a little spray into it. and im sure boring out the block to a 3.0 would get me more then just 50hp!?!?!?

 

How do you know that? Do you have any emperical data to support that? Not trying to pick on you, just giving you some feedback so you can think about your overall setup. Also 1mm overbore will not get you 3L. You will have to bore 3mm to get close to 3L with the stock crank.

Absolutly nothing wrong with building up a N/A motor. Plan it correctly and you'll be happy with it.

 

Unless you throw some sort of aftermarket fuel injection in there you're really not going to be gaining much. Simply raising the displacement of your motor to 3L isnt going to net you much power if your fuel system can't keep up. And if you plan on upgrading your fuel system, which you will have to do, then you're going to need a means of controlling it. MegaSquirt is the most cost effective means of doing that. So add that to your list also. And if you have the tunability of MS you can exploit all those mods and tune your engine to make far more horsepower then you'll get from just trying to perform those mods in your list on their own.

 

well in the long term plan 370cc injectors will be added with megasquirt and possibly a 255lb holly fuel pump just to complete the fuel delivery system.

 

Maybe I should have asked this a long time ago, but what is your HP goal?

 

well mi goal is to have a car that i can still take on a road trip so as much power as i am allowed bfor gas milage eats me.... how much power would that allow me?

 

uh hum.... the key to good gas mileage is keeping your foot off the throttle.

Power is obtained by adding more fuel.... adding more fuel = lower mpg...

With MegaSquirt you might be able to program a lean setting for normal driving, and a tuned setting for racing... but you'd have to be driving around w/ your laptop up to switch.

 

and i got no problem w/ driving w/ my laptop open... makes me look hardcore
but wut kinda numbers is reasonable to see? and what would i need to buy to get ther?

 

If I were going to build an NA L28, this is what I'd do:

-headwork (3 or 5 angle valve grind, mill the head .010, performance rockers, springs, titanium retainers, MLS 1mm headgasket)

-mild cam

-60mm tb w/ bored manifold neck

-header & 2.5" exhaust

-install air/fuel gauge

-adjust AFM


and that's it... cost? $400 in headwork, $500 cam kit, $250 exhaust, $150 headgasket, $100 other shiz. = $1400 total.... engine should put out around 200-210hp. With some luck, 18-22mpg.

 

You wouldn't really need a laptop with you. You can program MS to run at an ideal a/f ratio for mpg at part throttle and then use a more aggresive tune at WOT. MS will do the switching for you, thats what the TPS is for

 

and im just wonderin... cuz since nismopicks a die hard turbo guy... can i turbo a p79 head? possible? if so wut do i need to do?
(i no its off subject)

 

You can turbo any L series head. The P79 is your best choice for forced induction after the P90. The only differnce between the two being the exhaust ports (the P90A was hydraulic also).

 

do i need a 2mm head gasket? can i run the bottom end completly stock w/ the garret t3/t4 turbo? (like pistons in particular and could i run 87mm forged pistons flat top?) should it be water cooled or oil cooled(if oil cooled do i need a turbo oil pan?) umm... oh yeah stock turbo clutch... gues id need it eh? id be megasquirtin and upgrading injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump.
wen the headers connect to the head... here does the turbo then get mountd on instead of exhaust manifold? since its circle ports can i still put the turbo on it? if not a garret then what kind? i would also get a hks intercooler for the track and higher boost and like nismo said have 2 settings. i no its a lota questions but i checked out ur sticky on this j... i get answers that contridict eachother... so please help me out

need a breether... umm i think thats all mi questions...