high pitch screeching from engine
12-18-2004, 06:37 PM
#1
high pitch screeching from engine
ok just recently, i was headin to work and all of a sudden my car made this really LOUD screeching noise(and still does) whenever i accelerate really fast from an idle....i parked my car afterwork and i was playing with my thottle and seeing where it was coming from and its coming from the most front of the engine but i cant exactly determine where.... my guess is that my water pump is going bad but i cant just tear my car apart right now.... it does not do it under a slow acceleration or when im already moving, just from idle... any help?
12-18-2004, 07:26 PM
#3
Originally Posted by icice9
you got a loose belt..
12-18-2004, 07:36 PM
#4
Super Siver & Black Stud
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hayward Ca
Posts: 1,526
the water pump makes a loud gargling sound when it starts to go out.. not normaly a high pitch one... if its not your belt then it could be the belt tensioner pully bearing.. mine went out about a year ago.. id double check your belts again..
12-18-2004, 08:45 PM
#5
hmmm...interesting. if its the pully, could i posibly be the water pump pulley? cuz it sounds like its coming from the engine rather than a lil off to the side where the tensioner is but maybe just the sounds echoing....
thats why i thought it was my water pump, i figured maybe the actual water turbine was worn or the bearings shot, but it could very well be the pulley.
i cant check at the moment, but do you know if the pully bolts on, or do i have to get a pulley kit(which is expensive)
ps. 81' 280zxt l28et
thats why i thought it was my water pump, i figured maybe the actual water turbine was worn or the bearings shot, but it could very well be the pulley.
i cant check at the moment, but do you know if the pully bolts on, or do i have to get a pulley kit(which is expensive)
ps. 81' 280zxt l28et
12-19-2004, 08:35 PM
#8
Originally Posted by DoTheDrew888
Yeah, when I did my engine swap it took me a good while to get the belts to stop sqeaking. They have to be the correct tension, not to tight and not to loose.
im not trying to sound rude, im just frustrated....
my belts are not loose, or off, its not a squeak...
its a VERY loud SSSSSSSSSSCCCCCCCCCCRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE-CH!
like metal scraping metal really fast, really loud... like something is losing its lubrication....
its sounding progressively worse and i have no clue, help if you can!
thankx
12-19-2004, 10:15 PM
#9
could it perhaps be the fan clutch, as it would be something along the lines of what im thinking, as it doesnt screech at idle only ...its not a continuous sound only when the engine is accelerated rapidly from idleand then it goes away at like 2300 rpm...so im thinking fan clutch at this point but correct me if im wrong... any help or comments requested..
thankx
thankx
12-20-2004, 07:36 AM
#10
Super Siver & Black Stud
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hayward Ca
Posts: 1,526
lubricate your tensioner bearings.. its not the fan clutch.. when the fan clutch goes out it seazes and the fan will turn the same speed as your engine.. and has more of a loud wind tunnel sound.. the water pump bearing when that goes out it has a loud gargling sound.. and sounds more internal and is not a loud screeching sound.. what might have happend is when you tightend your belts with the tensioner pully.. you tightend the pullt down too tight and caused the bearngs in the pully to seaze.. that pully isnt cheap brand hew either.. i paid almost $100 per pully... so if you have some wd-40 spray some on the tensioner pully and see if it still makes that noise..
12-20-2004, 10:44 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Layton, UT
Posts: 788
Funny thing, my '81 does this same thing from idle up, and doesn't stop until the revs stop climbing - almost like its trying to catch up. It stops when the car is warmed up though (my car won't idle until the temp gauge moves, so I'm almost constantly on the throttle during the warm-up process). I pinpointed the noise source as the fan clutch, but in your case it could be different. I'll be running a couple electric Ford fans in a little while to fix this problem.
Hope that helps,
-Dave
Hope that helps,
-Dave
12-20-2004, 05:18 PM
#12
Originally Posted by icice9
lubricate your tensioner bearings.. its not the fan clutch.. when the fan clutch goes out it seazes and the fan will turn the same speed as your engine.. and has more of a loud wind tunnel sound.. the water pump bearing when that goes out it has a loud gargling sound.. and sounds more internal and is not a loud screeching sound.. what might have happend is when you tightend your belts with the tensioner pully.. you tightend the pullt down too tight and caused the bearngs in the pully to seaze.. that pully isnt cheap brand hew either.. i paid almost $100 per pully... so if you have some wd-40 spray some on the tensioner pully and see if it still makes that noise..
when i changed my belts i had only adjusted the tensioner, not the pulley..my guess is that the bearings just needed alil lubrication...24 years old.. i would imagine so, most of my car is still original
you dont know how embarassing it is to have a powerful car go SCREECH when you take off... makes it sound pretty bad regardless of your standing... now to go burn some more ricers
Last edited by assimilated420; 12-20-2004 at 07:40 PM.
12-20-2004, 05:21 PM
#13
also much gratitude to everyone for their advice, will only add to my knowledge and alwayz useful in one way or another...
~thankx!
~thankx!
Last edited by assimilated420; 12-20-2004 at 07:45 PM.
12-21-2004, 08:08 AM
#15
Super Siver & Black Stud
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hayward Ca
Posts: 1,526
take out the bearing and see if its damaged.. i had to replace both of mine.one of them was pretty beat up... i bought them from the dealer at about $90 each.. not cheap... i didnt want to put a junk yard one on cuz i didnt feel it would last too long ....
12-28-2004, 05:52 PM
#16
well replaced the pulley and the bearings didnt look all too well. so much for that...car is fixed, driven a lil bit and no problems...24 year old parts dont have too much life in them...unfortunately
12-29-2004, 11:21 PM
#19
im lucky cuz it was a tensioner pulley and is replaceable easily, otherwise itd be a huge pain in the ***...i went ahead and did an extra half turn on my belts and mad them tighter, they werent loose, but a lil extra without too much is always good. and new pulley works great... and i had blasted it with silicone and wd40 a million times, and it was only temporary fix, itd come back after 2 runs...i hated it, now that its gone, my car really has been running a tad better and a lil more responsive, my bearings were really worn, i dont have a digicam or anything so i cannot show you but they werent looking all that good, 24 years old i wouldnt expect it too... well hope this helps...peace
12-30-2004, 08:25 AM
#20
Super Siver & Black Stud
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hayward Ca
Posts: 1,526
you were lucky that it didnt seaze on you like mine did.. the tensioner pully seazed and the AC belt melted on the pully on my way home from work one night.. good thing it was just the AC belt.. after i took out the pully and looked at it the bearings were torn to shreads
01-04-2005, 06:47 AM
#22
thats what pulley that went out was the power steering tensioner, it wasnt pretty, but now that its gone i can feel the difference; sometimes the simplest things make the biggest difference, like... new windshield wipers!
02-03-2005, 07:56 PM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 100
Well you know it's the pully causing the problem. WD40 is not ment as a permanent fix. You can get a replacement at a junk yard, or take the pully off & replace the bearing. It can be taken appart without a puller, but if you need a puller check with Auto Zone as the rent tools and when you bring the tool back you get your money back (it's free) as they provide a service, plus the figure you will buy parts from them if needed. I took my pully appart & once removing the C clip by using a small screwdriver removed the dust cover. I then put wheel bearing grease, then put it back together & it seems to be working. You don't want to keep driving the car as it could seze (poor spelling) up and cause a bigger problem.. Good luck.
02-03-2005, 08:46 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 106
Things you should check whenever replacing belts....
When you have the belts off.....spin all of the pulleys and tensioners...wiggle them back and forth...they should turn smoothlyand quietly. They should not move laterally when you force them back and forth...pull on the crank pulley with some effort...it may wiggle just a little bit...if it moves easily..you need a new damper....
next visibly inspect the grooves of all the pulleys...the shiny wear area should not get down to the bottom of a V-pulley....The ridges on a serpentine pully should be sharp triangular ridges....if they are rounded off beads you are not getting enough driving force on the belt.....
when you install the new belt make sure you can properly install it without forcing it. Adjust belt tension without bottoming out bolts for that last little bit...go back and get a different size if you need to...they come in half inch sizes.
Look at how the new belt runs it's course...are the pulleys lined up in a plane...are any pulleys cocked sideways...V-belts should ride just a little proud of the outer rim of the pulley...if they fall into the groove they will overheat and glaze....check that serpentine belts are centered on every pulley before starting the engine...check that the tensioner is square with the belt and the belt rides on center...you may be missing a shim washer if the belt rides off one edge of the tensioner......
1 week later...recheck belt tension....Gates are great belts but they stretch slowly...expect to retension some belts twice within a month....
You just can't go wrong if you do this...find things "before" they break..and while you have the car in the shop the first time.....of course some customers are poor bastards and are offended when the mechanic says we need to do $600 more work.
When you have the belts off.....spin all of the pulleys and tensioners...wiggle them back and forth...they should turn smoothlyand quietly. They should not move laterally when you force them back and forth...pull on the crank pulley with some effort...it may wiggle just a little bit...if it moves easily..you need a new damper....
next visibly inspect the grooves of all the pulleys...the shiny wear area should not get down to the bottom of a V-pulley....The ridges on a serpentine pully should be sharp triangular ridges....if they are rounded off beads you are not getting enough driving force on the belt.....
when you install the new belt make sure you can properly install it without forcing it. Adjust belt tension without bottoming out bolts for that last little bit...go back and get a different size if you need to...they come in half inch sizes.
Look at how the new belt runs it's course...are the pulleys lined up in a plane...are any pulleys cocked sideways...V-belts should ride just a little proud of the outer rim of the pulley...if they fall into the groove they will overheat and glaze....check that serpentine belts are centered on every pulley before starting the engine...check that the tensioner is square with the belt and the belt rides on center...you may be missing a shim washer if the belt rides off one edge of the tensioner......
1 week later...recheck belt tension....Gates are great belts but they stretch slowly...expect to retension some belts twice within a month....
You just can't go wrong if you do this...find things "before" they break..and while you have the car in the shop the first time.....of course some customers are poor bastards and are offended when the mechanic says we need to do $600 more work.
