79 not turbo/turbo swap??
#1
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79 not turbo/turbo swap??
Ok I have a 79 280zx. Its been in the shop since I got it and yesterday they told me that my compresion was at 120, way low. I supose something is wrong with my piston rings but being that its almost 25 years old I figuer if I'm going to spend any money on the engine insides then it would probly be best to do a rebuild. In the same turn, my plan was to (someday) swap with a turbo and if I have to spend the money for a rebuild I might as well just invest in my turbo plans which brings me to my point.
Does the late model turbo swap with the 79 non turbo engine, would I have to change out the tranny as well? Would I be beter off buying an entire turbo car for the swap or can I just buy the engine it self. The reason I want to keep my 79 is because it has no t top, everything is manuel no power windows or locks, and I've also heard that there lighter in weight no to mintion previous upgrades 3.9 diff, springs, struts ect. Also I'm thinking about a 83 2+2 turbo as a donor, for those of you who know more on the subject, would this be a good donor or would you suggest an alturnative model? And lastly (for now) how much am I looking at not counting the cost of the donor car or engine? Please Help me put my plans in motion without digging my self a hole!! any opinon or advice is helpfull!!!!!!
Does the late model turbo swap with the 79 non turbo engine, would I have to change out the tranny as well? Would I be beter off buying an entire turbo car for the swap or can I just buy the engine it self. The reason I want to keep my 79 is because it has no t top, everything is manuel no power windows or locks, and I've also heard that there lighter in weight no to mintion previous upgrades 3.9 diff, springs, struts ect. Also I'm thinking about a 83 2+2 turbo as a donor, for those of you who know more on the subject, would this be a good donor or would you suggest an alturnative model? And lastly (for now) how much am I looking at not counting the cost of the donor car or engine? Please Help me put my plans in motion without digging my self a hole!! any opinon or advice is helpfull!!!!!!
#3
The 2+2 is the perfect donor! Same engine, engine compartment, and transmission length. In fact, you can use your non-turbo transmission if you like. they bolt right up. The body of the 2+2 won't be used so it doesnt' matter on the length.
And that is the best way to do the swap. There are different sensors and gauges so swapping in the entire wiring harness, computer, and gauge setup is the best way. Go for that, and rebuild the turbo engine when its out of the car. Also, you could rebuild the engine, drop it in the turbo 2+2 and run it for a bit to see that's it tuned right. Then do your swap. That way you start out knowing everything is working right.
And that is the best way to do the swap. There are different sensors and gauges so swapping in the entire wiring harness, computer, and gauge setup is the best way. Go for that, and rebuild the turbo engine when its out of the car. Also, you could rebuild the engine, drop it in the turbo 2+2 and run it for a bit to see that's it tuned right. Then do your swap. That way you start out knowing everything is working right.
#4
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Other opportunities during rebuild
Originally Posted by BleachZee
The 2+2 is the perfect donor! Same engine, engine compartment, and transmission length. In fact, you can use your non-turbo transmission if you like. they bolt right up. The body of the 2+2 won't be used so it doesnt' matter on the length.
And that is the best way to do the swap. There are different sensors and gauges so swapping in the entire wiring harness, computer, and gauge setup is the best way. Go for that, and rebuild the turbo engine when its out of the car. Also, you could rebuild the engine, drop it in the turbo 2+2 and run it for a bit to see that's it tuned right. Then do your swap. That way you start out knowing everything is working right.
And that is the best way to do the swap. There are different sensors and gauges so swapping in the entire wiring harness, computer, and gauge setup is the best way. Go for that, and rebuild the turbo engine when its out of the car. Also, you could rebuild the engine, drop it in the turbo 2+2 and run it for a bit to see that's it tuned right. Then do your swap. That way you start out knowing everything is working right.
Are there some things that we should take advantage of during the rebuild? Should we try using different pistons or a thinner gasket to increase compression? I know that's taboo for turbos but there's room in the L28ET to increase it a bit (I'm thinking to at least 8.5:1 maybe even 9.5).
I also saw something about using a better crank but I forget whose. I remember reading it was to take advantage of better balance at higher revolutions and making the motor sound for 7000+.
In the head should we swap if it's a certain kind? I think I read that the N42 was preferable?? I cannot remember. I also realize that since the head will be off that it's a good opportunity to do a mild port/polish (saw a good book on blueprinting that explains this in detail and the degree to which many folks may want to do it).
What else?
TIA,
Jason
#5
don't worry about increasing the compression. Just pump in more boost for more power.
The intake port on the head would be great. Stick with the P90 head if you have it or the P79. The open chamber of the N42/N47 is very bad for a turbo. The square exhaust ports have very little advantage compared to a closed chamber design of the P79.
Just have the factory L28 crank balanced if you want to revv higher. There are no aftermarket cranks. The stroker crank is not really good for a turbo engine and causes all sorts of unnessisary problems.
The intake port on the head would be great. Stick with the P90 head if you have it or the P79. The open chamber of the N42/N47 is very bad for a turbo. The square exhaust ports have very little advantage compared to a closed chamber design of the P79.
Just have the factory L28 crank balanced if you want to revv higher. There are no aftermarket cranks. The stroker crank is not really good for a turbo engine and causes all sorts of unnessisary problems.
#7
Originally Posted by Jason92Classic
Hey ya'll! I'm interested in this thread as well as I want to put an ET into mine -- I've been researching quite a bit for my 280 and I'm curious about the rebuild process:
Are there some things that we should take advantage of during the rebuild? Should we try using different pistons or a thinner gasket to increase compression? I know that's taboo for turbos but there's room in the L28ET to increase it a bit (I'm thinking to at least 8.5:1 maybe even 9.5).
I also saw something about using a better crank but I forget whose. I remember reading it was to take advantage of better balance at higher revolutions and making the motor sound for 7000+.
In the head should we swap if it's a certain kind? I think I read that the N42 was preferable?? I cannot remember. I also realize that since the head will be off that it's a good opportunity to do a mild port/polish (saw a good book on blueprinting that explains this in detail and the degree to which many folks may want to do it).
What else?
TIA,
Jason
Are there some things that we should take advantage of during the rebuild? Should we try using different pistons or a thinner gasket to increase compression? I know that's taboo for turbos but there's room in the L28ET to increase it a bit (I'm thinking to at least 8.5:1 maybe even 9.5).
I also saw something about using a better crank but I forget whose. I remember reading it was to take advantage of better balance at higher revolutions and making the motor sound for 7000+.
In the head should we swap if it's a certain kind? I think I read that the N42 was preferable?? I cannot remember. I also realize that since the head will be off that it's a good opportunity to do a mild port/polish (saw a good book on blueprinting that explains this in detail and the degree to which many folks may want to do it).
What else?
TIA,
Jason
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